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With respect, I'm not a supporter of oil additives. Today's oil is carefully constructed with specific chemistry and a number of additives that the manufacturer used for specific purposes. You can't "build up" gaskets or seals, you can only keep them lubricated. And any oil additive will change the chemistry of the oil and may defeat some of its design.

If you decide to run oil additives, I think you should assume that your engine oil will break down much earlier than it's designed to; I'd go to 3000 mile oil and filter changes at most.

Better idea: run synthetic, don't throw in additives, and if something leaks, repair it.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Thanks guys for all your help. One comment: It has been mentioned that the oil cooler may be causing the oil leak but the you tube video that was posted is about the oil filter head gasket. Where is the oil cooler and what gasket could be leaking?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Thanks for that, I see the oil cooler is part of the oil filter head, and the gasket or o ring is part of that. A previous post has the you tube video and it clearly shows how to replace it.
Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I replaced the oil cooler gasket and have the oil pan off and cleaned up. I cleaned the matting surface on the engine so am ready to install the new oil pan gasket and oil pan. The original oil pan is in good shape so will reuse. Anyone know the torque specs on the oil pan bolts?
 

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I replaced the oil cooler gasket and have the oil pan off and cleaned up. I cleaned the matting surface on the engine so am ready to install the new oil pan gasket and oil pan. The original oil pan is in good shape so will reuse. Anyone know the torque specs on the oil pan bolts?
About 15 lb., snug with a short ratchet, if you don't have a torque wrench. You're just slightly compressing the oil pan gasket.

Have a good day.
 

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My 2005 FSM says 88 in-lb, or 7.3 ft-lb.
Thanks for being specific about INCH-pounds! Nicely done!

VERY IMPORTANT: don't just grab a torque wrench and start twisting. Most torque wrenches are in FOOT-pounds, and there are 12 inch-pounds to one foot pound. (12 inches to a foot, for those of us like me who are sometimes math-challenged....)

In other words, ti's really, really easy to read "88" then grab a torque wrench and try to apply 88 foot-pounds. That will result in mechanical disaster - probably broken off bolts.

Do the math right, be careful to note inch-pounds and take it easy!!
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I replaced the oil cooler o ring and removed and replaced the oil pan and gasket. I still have a small leak on the oil pan at the point where Nissan made a pry point so a screw drive can be inserted to pry the oil pan from the engine. As mentioned I used a new oil pan gasket with gasket adhesive.
The service manual that MuranoSL2003 posted above shows no oil pan gasket but uses a special Nissan adhesive to seal the oil pan to the engine block. I guess I'll buy a new oil pan and this adhesive, not use a gasket and try again.
Comments?
 

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If you're using a gasket and it's not called for, then the torque spec will be off, too low. I would gently tighten all the oil pan bolts by hand using a short-handled ratchet. Use lighting to watch the gasket spacing and look for a slight compression of the gasket as you slowly tighten the bolts in sequence.

Run the engine and check for leaks. If it's still leaking, new oil pan and adhesive would be the way to go.

Have a good day.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
If you're using a gasket and it's not called for, then the torque spec will be off, too low. I would gently tighten all the oil pan bolts by hand using a short-handled ratchet. Use lighting to watch the gasket spacing and look for a slight compression of the gasket as you slowly tighten the bolts in sequence.

Run the engine and check for leaks. If it's still leaking, new oil pan and adhesive would be the way to go.

Have a good day.
Thanks for that, I did and no leaks.
 
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