[Corske]

Proud to announce another chapter in the saga issues series. This time is the oil leak, was replaced 100 miles ago or 3 weeks ago, the engine started to make some weird rattling sounds at low RPMs when the gas pedal is pressed to I checked the level, which was very low apparently. I used some good quality german stuff Liqui Moly - on a side note this is what I use in my Mercedes, very good oil. Seems to me that after putting the European stuff in it started leaking like crazy.

Below are the pics, let me know what you think, I suspect that cable sensor thing that is above the oil pan - no idea what that is. What's your input on this gentlemen?

 

[MuranoSL2003]

Has the engine oil level dropped since replacing it with the Liqui Moly? If so, how much?

Have you checked the power steering fluid level? 1st gen Muranos have a history of the high pressure power steering hose developing a leak at some point...

 

[I need coffee]

Proud to announce another chapter in the saga issues series. This time is the oil leak, was replaced 100 miles ago or 3 weeks ago, the engine started to make some weird rattling sounds at low RPMs when the gas pedal is pressed to I checked the level, which was very low apparently. I used some good quality german stuff Liqui Moly - on a side note this is what I use in my Mercedes, very good oil. Seems to me that after putting the European stuff in it started leaking like crazy.

Below are the pics, let me know what you think, I suspect that cable sensor thing that is above the oil pan - no idea what that is. What's your input on this gentlemen?

The oil pressure switch is cruddy, while the area before it by the oil cooler seems to have "cleaner" oil. The gasket behind the oil cooler is a common failure in these cars so that would be a prime suspect, but to be sure you should clean the area very well, run the engine and see precisely where oil is dripping from. If it's leaking as bad as you say then it shouldn't take long to find the culprit.

 

[PaulDay]

Pic two plainly shows a compromised hose, looks like it's going to the oil CVT cooler. The inner layer has failed, hence the swelling. This should be replaced ASAP before it ruptures and leaves you totally stranded.

Pic three showing the oil temp/pressure switch has oil that looks like it's coming down from above. Between the switch and hose you can see oil too far up from the switch.

Plan of action would be to change the hose and at the same time clean and remove all the oil from that area. Check after each drive where the engine has been running at temp for at least 30 minutes.

This will give you an indication of where the oil is really coming from and how severe the leak is.

Good luck.

Have a good day.

 

[Corske]

Found this thread : Where does the engine oil leak from?

The OP seems to have similar issues like oil coming from above the oil temperature sensor... look like he never figured it out. I will clean the area and I think I will buy oil dye so I can see exactly.

Oil cooler base looks like might have a drop or two but the main culprit is unknown and is somewhere above the oil temp sensor, look at that cable is all soaked in oil.

 

[I need coffee]

The oil pressure switch plugs into the upper oil pan so it could be the gasket between the engine block and upper pan. But, when you drive down the road air moving around and under the engine can blow oil all over the place so you definitely need to clean it up to see where it's really leaking from. Let us know what you find.

On a side note, you said in your original post that this all started after you put some German oil in the crank case--it was "Liqui Moly", but what specific kind of oil and how much?

 

[Cryogenix1]

Nevermind...missed the oil cooler at the top-left... Thanks, INC.

 

[I need coffee]

The hose in the pics that's all swollen with oil runs to the engine oil cooler so it should be coolant circulating through that. Regardless, it's pretty bad.

 

[Corske]

On a side note, you said in your original post that this all started after you put some German oil in the crank case--it was "Liqui Moly", but what specific kind of oil and how much?

5W30 Special Tec for asian and american cars. https://amzn.to/37TIZ3q

The reason I am saying that I noticed after replacing the oil with this is because before with the old oil from the previous owner I couldn’t find any leaks ... and checked the dip stick regularly. Maybe this oil cleaned the gunk out of the seals or something... who knows.

 

[Corske]

I poured around 4.5 quarts.

 

[Cryogenix1]

The reason I am saying that I noticed after replacing the oil with this is because before with the old oil from the previous owner I couldn’t find any leaks ... and checked the dip stick regularly. Maybe this oil cleaned the gunk out of the seals or something... who knows.

It's also possible the previous owner poured a crapload of additives into the oil to temporarily stop/slow some leaks in order to sell the car. Now, with those additives flushed out with the replacement of the oil (or the sealers simply losing their effectiveness) the leaks are starting to reappear. Hopefully you can find out what's going on and take care of it cheaply.

A great tool to poke around the engine compartment to see things you can't normally see is a $20 snake-cam that you can buy online that plugs into your laptop or smartphone. It has built-in LEDs and you can stick it in various places, bend it around corners, etc, in order to see everything. Also good for checking your own tonsils from time to time. The one I have has flexible metal for about the first ten inches that comes in handy for peeking around corners or things further down in the engine compartment. Very handy.

I bought mine about eight years ago...I can't find it on Amazon anymore. I guess they're accurately called endoscopes. Here's an example... https://www.amazon.com/Inspection-F...ywords=amazon+snake+cam&qid=1607564866&sr=8-3

 

[I need coffee]

It took 4.5 quarts to refill?! The crankcase must have been nearly dry. I've heard of Liqui Moly by their engine cleaning solvent, but I didn't know they make a whole line of oil products.

Cryogenix1 may be on to something with the stop-leak garbage. I bet the Liqui Moly has a lot of detergents in it and washed away whatever had been sealing the leaks. Ditto on the snake cam--I love those things and good quality (and tiny!) cams can be had for really cheap these days.

 

[Corske]

Did the oil dye test today, couldn't find much evidence, no oil leaks from the upper pan area. Is a bit confusing because apparently, the coolant shines green too like the oil dye is supposed to be green-yellowish color? So far looks like that coolant hose is leaking a bit, but still, that fluid doesn't seem to be coolant. Drove the car for like 5 mins with high revs sport mode, I let it idle for 30 mins... still not any real evidence, I also checked the spark plugs to see if I see some dye on their tip but nothing, I was thinking maybe oil burns somehow. 1 quart of oil disappeared in approx 100 miles (I have an emptied a 5qt oil bottle). Still under investigation. However at the end of my operation, I could see just a tiny bit of greenish color right under the oil cooler, I will let it sit for a day and I will check again that area.

 

[Cryogenix1]

I remember a few years into owning MO she suddenly started burning oil between oil changes. Nissan ended up replacing the heads due to other problems and the oil consumption stopped. In the past couple of years, MO was burning through about a quart of oil every 1000 miles, then I started using Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer every 2nd/3rd oil change and the consumption reduced to about 1/2 quart every thousand miles. But I can't imagine your engine's burning through that much oil every 100 miles. Seems impossible unless you're drag racing with the tach constantly maxxed out.

But, really, replace that tiny oil cooler hose ASAP...it's going to blow soon.

Attached is the small elbow that connects about six inches beneath the top radiator hose. A few days prior to it bursting, I was smelling coolant but not seeing any visible signs of a leak. In short, a tiny hole in that hose was (I assume) spraying some coolant downward onto the engine every so often, but by the time I stopped and looked at it, there wasn't anything to see. I figured it was the hole in the engine block acting up again. Long to short, a day later while pulling into the parking lot of an auto parts store to buy something unrelated to that leak, steam poured out from under the hood and I finally saw the problem. I ended up using a U-shaped hose for a Chrysler or something, and then cut it to fit. Wasn't perfect, but's it's holding fine

 

[I need coffee]

Did the oil dye test today, couldn't find much evidence, no oil leaks from the upper pan area. Is a bit confusing because apparently, the coolant shines green too like the oil dye is supposed to be green-yellowish color? So far looks like that coolant hose is leaking a bit, but still, that fluid doesn't seem to be coolant. Drove the car for like 5 mins with high revs sport mode, I let it idle for 30 mins... still not any real evidence, I also checked the spark plugs to see if I see some dye on their tip but nothing, I was thinking maybe oil burns somehow. 1 quart of oil disappeared in approx 100 miles (I have an emptied a 5qt oil bottle). Still under investigation. However at the end of my operation, I could see just a tiny bit of greenish color right under the oil cooler, I will let it sit for a day and I will check again that area.

I would suggest replacing that short coolant hose that runs to the oil cooler and also the oil cooler gasket--it's a cheap part and common failing in these cars. Then clean up the area and monitor. Also, check the condition of the coolant to make sure you don't detect the presence of oil. When you did the last oil change was there any indication of coolant in the crankcase?

Losing 1 quart of motor oil every 100 miles is extremely high so if it isn't all leaking outside the engine then some of it is going out the tail pipe.

 

[Pilgrim]

Losing 1 quart of motor oil every 100 miles is extremely high so if it isn't all leaking outside the engine then some of it is going out the tail pipe.

That's a polite understatement. If it is leaking, you would see oil drips on the ground every time you park the car. It is possible for an engine to burn this much oil, but if so, I would expect there to be blue smoke coming out of the tail pipe at times.

I had a 1966 Pontiac GTO (389 V8) that burned a quart of oil every 50 miles, but it had been run very hard and had a couple of problems including toasted oil rings. I could lay down a large plume of blue oil smoke by accelerating hard, then decelerating hard for 5+ seconds. Part of that was due to worn valve guides sucking oil into the cylinders on deceleration. Great for killing bugs....not so great for the car behind me.

 

[Cryogenix1]

Bunch up some papertowels and semi-tightly pack each tailpipe tip with them, then take MO for a quick spin. Since the tips are larger diameter than the actual exhaust pipes, there might be enough room for exhaust to spill out the back, so maybe the clean packing will stay in long enough to reveal if oil is being blown out of your exhaust. I've never tried it...maybe it wouldn't work.

I'd say to use a rag or towel, but it might be too suffocating. At least the papertowel has the ability to tear a little and possibly allow enough exhaust to expel without pushing it all out. In fact, maybe pack each tip tightly with papertowels, then take a stake or long knife and work a hole into the center of the packing, to allow more exhaust to expel. It might be a better way to ensure the packing stays in, yet the sides of the packing might get coated with oil as you're driving, so you can see it later when you remove it. Just a thought.

 

[Cryogenix1]

Before heading out this morning, I decided I'd take a few minutes to test my tailpipe trick. Refer to below video. I drove for six miles at a max speed of 50MPH and a max RPM of 3200 for three seconds (I wanted to see if the packing would blow out.) Everything stayed intact. I didn't go any faster because I would've had to be on the highway, and I didn't want to be on a road that I couldn't easily/safely stop to retrieve the packing material if it got blown out. If someone decides to use this trick and drive further or faster, I think a simple solution would be to take a piece of baling wire and make an "X" pattern across the opening of the tailpipe, and twist-tie the ends of the wire back behind the tailpipe somewhere. You could probably drive around for a long time at high speeds/RPMs without that packing going anywhere, and that would allow enough time for the packing to catch any oil or coolant that might be blowing through the exhaust system.

 

[Corske]

Found the culprit, oil cooler gasket, after driving it more and let it sit for a day I could clearly see the dye oil coming from the bottom of oil cooler and goes around the lower pan and lastly dripping on the bulged coolant hose. I will replace the oil cooler hose along with the $20 coolant hose this weekend .

 

[Hamfist]

I have that exact leak and I go through about 1qt every 1000 milea as well.

I am suspecting The oil cooler gasket too. I replaced the oil pan 5000 miles ago and the valve cover gaskets. The rest of the engine is clean. The leak doesnt seem that active, as in going through 1qt/1000mi seems excessive. Im guessing its burning the rest.

The previous owner was not good about maint.