[vstring]

Sorry in advance for this long message:
Hello all, I am new to this forum. I have a 2nd gen 2012 SL AWD. I bought it with high mileage (267K km/166K miles) due to the freaking crazy high used SUV prices. It was driving ok but I wanted to perform maintenance like new iridium plugs cause I did not know when they were last changed. So I changed the plugs (Autolite), cam shaft sensors (OEM), filter, cleaned both sides of throttle body along with MAF sensor, changed PCV (it was stuck closed) and installed a new plenum gasket. I started to have the P0101 code after all this work. I investigated and found that I inadvertently broke one of the vac lines (dry). I then replaced all the 1/8" inner vac lines with silicone tubing. I cleared fault code and after 20k or so I had the issue again. So I researched then added cat cleaner to tank and ran this through. I ended up with 3 new faults relating to the throttle body and another sensor but these were pending codes. I decided to change the throttle body due to its age and gasket. I also purchased another MAF sensor. The 3 new fault codes cleared after many kilometers driving but the damn P0101 came back! I sealed any surface cracks on the air intake "accordion" tube as well. This car is in the shop now for new front stabilizer links and a new OEM crank shaft sensor. Any ideas would be helpful. I have seen a video on the P0101 code issue with a 2011 with an open wire to the MAF. I moved the wires around with engine running to see if the code came back.
Summery of what I have done so far:
Cam shaft sensors
Crank shaft sensor (today)
Throttle body/gasket
Vac lines
Plenum gasket
PCV
MAF
Air filter
Battery (AGM)
Duralube severe cat and exhaust cleaner

 

[MuranoSL2003]

I would start by replacing the air intake duct. Patching it means it may still have some leakage... Leaks in the engine air intake duct is a common problem that can cause the low speed issues you mentioned.

 

[PaulDay]

Sorry, but you used the wrong spark plugs. When non-OEM spark plugs are used in Nissan's engines, you'll start to get all kinds of weird codes.

On three different Muranos, 2 1st Gen and one 2nd Gen, all three started and ran fine using aftermarket spark plugs. Champion, Autolite, and E3. Champion plugs didn't even last 300 miles before noticeable engine performance drop, and error codes popped up. Autolite and E3 plugs started to effect engine performance and popping codes before 1K miles.

Needless to say, I was not happy. I'd done the work, and used the plugs given to me, against my better judgement and advice. Trying to save a penny. Of course, as the mechanic doing the work, I was to blame at first, until I kindly reminded them that I was against using the spark plugs they'd bought in the first place, for this very reason.

Now I'll only help out IF the proper OEM parts are bought. They may cost more, but I have solid confidence that they'll less likely to cause issues down the road.

Good luck.

Have a good day.

 

[vstring]

Sorry in advance for this long message:
Hello all, I am new to this forum. I have a 2nd gen 2012 SL AWD. I bought it with high mileage (267K km/166K miles) due to the freaking crazy high used SUV prices. It was driving ok but I wanted to perform maintenance like new iridium plugs cause I did not know when they were last changed. So I changed the plugs (Autolite), cam shaft sensors (OEM), filter, cleaned both sides of throttle body along with MAF sensor, changed PCV (it was stuck closed) and installed a new plenum gasket. I started to have the P0101 code after all this work. I investigated and found that I inadvertently broke one of the vac lines (dry). I then replaced all the 1/8" inner vac lines with silicone tubing. I cleared fault code and after 20k or so I had the issue again. So I researched then added cat cleaner to tank and ran this through. I ended up with 3 new faults relating to the throttle body and another sensor but these were pending codes. I decided to change the throttle body due to its age and gasket. I also purchased another MAF sensor. The 3 new fault codes cleared after many kilometers driving but the damn P0101 came back! I sealed any surface cracks on the air intake "accordion" tube as well. This car is in the shop now for new front stabilizer links and a new OEM crank shaft sensor. Any ideas would be helpful. I have seen a video on the P0101 code issue with a 2011 with an open wire to the MAF. I moved the wires around with engine running to see if the code came back.
Summery of what I have done so far:
Cam shaft sensors
Crank shaft sensor (today)
Throttle body/gasket
Vac lines
Plenum gasket
PCV
MAF
Air filter
Battery (AGM)
Duralube severe cat and exhaust cleaner

oh, and of course I changed the plugs and used Autolite. Well, this may have been a mistake according to PaulDay. Darn, They were only 10 bucks cdn too! So, anyone recommend a good place to purchase these? PaulDay?

 

[PaulDay]

Stick with Denso\Nippon. If you buy from the dealer, that's what's most likely will be in the package. You can find them in 6 packs on the internet cheaper than from a dealer. Download the Denso counterfeit identifier web page to avoid the fake ones being sold online. Unfortunately, you will pay a higher price for the real ones.

NKG is the second choice, but I have no experience with them and would only use them IF I had no other choice.

Always verify fit and part number obtained from Nissan specs for your car and engine. I usually go to a Nissan Parts site and match VIN the part needed to verify fit and get the proper part number.

Good luck.

Have a good day.

 

[MKUltra]

Sorry in advance for this long message:
Hello all, I am new to this forum. I have a 2nd gen 2012 SL AWD. I bought it with high mileage (267K km/166K miles) due to the freaking crazy high used SUV prices. It was driving ok but I wanted to perform maintenance like new iridium plugs cause I did not know when they were last changed. So I changed the plugs (Autolite), cam shaft sensors (OEM), filter, cleaned both sides of throttle body along with MAF sensor, changed PCV (it was stuck closed) and installed a new plenum gasket. I started to have the P0101 code after all this work. I investigated and found that I inadvertently broke one of the vac lines (dry). I then replaced all the 1/8" inner vac lines with silicone tubing. I cleared fault code and after 20k or so I had the issue again. So I researched then added cat cleaner to tank and ran this through. I ended up with 3 new faults relating to the throttle body and another sensor but these were pending codes. I decided to change the throttle body due to its age and gasket. I also purchased another MAF sensor. The 3 new fault codes cleared after many kilometers driving but the damn P0101 came back! I sealed any surface cracks on the air intake "accordion" tube as well. This car is in the shop now for new front stabilizer links and a new OEM crank shaft sensor. Any ideas would be helpful. I have seen a video on the P0101 code issue with a 2011 with an open wire to the MAF. I moved the wires around with engine running to see if the code came back.
Summery of what I have done so far:
Cam shaft sensors
Crank shaft sensor (today)
Throttle body/gasket
Vac lines
Plenum gasket
PCV
MAF
Air filter
Battery (AGM)
Duralube severe cat and exhaust cleaner

I'd say you're building quite a list of parts you've thrown at it, which rarely if ever saves money. That isnt a cristicism at you personally but should be a lesson learned. Most of the parts you have replaced have very little to do with a p0101 which has more to do with a potential vaccuum leak or Mass Air Flow circuit. Process of elimination could stave off further money spent...test the sensor circuit, replace and cracked or torn intake hoses, reset/erase code and test drive. Without knowning the list of codes that you originally found, tough to really know what was necessary and what wasn't. Crankshaft Sensor will send the car into limp mode...Throttle Body will affect idling/performance and yes, several of many codes would present themselves. The incorrect plugs SHOULDNT have thrown the code, but like said above, foreign engines you should stick to the factory recommendations, as they are finicky. Had a Honda some years ago that had issues after using offbrand, so learned that some years back. Cat cleaner IMO usually can open a can of worms and would never use on a higher mileage vehicle that I just bought, and you are getting up there in mileage, so that could also do more harm than good on an aging CC. Those are not cheap to replace unless you find a salvage yard that has one off a NIssan.

 

[vstring]

I'd say you're building quite a list of parts you've thrown at it, which rarely if ever saves money. That isnt a cristicism at you personally but should be a lesson learned. Most of the parts you have replaced have very little to do with a p0101 which has more to do with a potential vaccuum leak or Mass Air Flow circuit. Process of elimination could stave off further money spent...test the sensor circuit, replace and cracked or torn intake hoses, reset/erase code and test drive. Without knowning the list of codes that you originally found, tough to really know what was necessary and what wasn't. Crankshaft Sensor will send the car into limp mode...Throttle Body will affect idling/performance and yes, several of many codes would present themselves. The incorrect plugs SHOULDNT have thrown the code, but like said above, foreign engines you should stick to the factory recommendations, as they are finicky. Had a Honda some years ago that had issues after using offbrand, so learned that some years back. Cat cleaner IMO usually can open a can of worms and would never use on a higher mileage vehicle that I just bought, and you are getting up there in mileage, so that could also do more harm than good on an aging CC. Those are not cheap to replace unless you find a salvage yard that has one off a NIssan.

Since i was changing the plugs do to mileage (and no records of maintenance) I decided to change out the cam shaft sensors because the plenum was removed (access to the 2nd sensor). This was more of a preventive maintenance along with the crankshaft sensor. I had throttle body (TPS) codes as well. The TPS was part of the assembly. Vacuum lines were dry and brittle. I think the main waste will be the 60 buks plus tax I spent on the plugs. I got a MAF sensor from a wrecked vehicle (not a Murano but same part) with only 30K km on it. I think PaulDay has a point with the plugs which may be causing the stumbling/hesitation issue. I read online others having issues after installing non OEM plugs and the Autolite XP plugs were often installed due to price. I just ordered the Densi FXE22HR11 plugs. Fortunately there is a salvage yard with several Murano's not far from my location.