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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok, my brother gave me his 2010 Murano SL AWD about a month ago. All I had to do was bring a trailer and pick it up from the shop it was parked at. The car would start but not stay running. It would stall out and die will in gear and have bad idle in neutral or gear. It would, however, start back up every time. He was tired of it being in the shop constantly and the last “fix” to remedy the rough idle/stall didn’t fix the problem. The shop replaced the fuel filter/fuel pump assembly. Their next suggestion was to replace the cats since they thought those were clogged. More on that at a later time. 118k miles and he and his wife have put approx $5500-$6000 into it. Everything from radiator to control arms to shocks/struts, brakes, plugs, O2 sensors. All done professionally at the same shop. He was sick of dumping money into it and actually got the shop to refund him a grand due to them not diagnosing and just replacing parts after the fuel pump doesn’t fix it. I pick it up and trailer it home. Car died three times trying to get it on. We had to keep a foot on the gas to keep the idle high enough to not stall out.

Anyways, Got it home and the only code was P0300.
I replaced the coils with some cheap ones on eBay. Didn’t fix it. Still wouldn’t idle right and pressing the gas now caused the car to bog down. I pulled the plugs and they all looked great. None were fouled. Stepped away for a week for a trip and after I got home I did some more forum searching and found someone had the P0300 and his mechanic said his injectors were bad. I don’t have the diagnosing equipment to check the duty cycle on the injectors so I searched for a cleaner to use. Found something called bg44k. Had to order it online. Asked my brother what type of gas and where he’d been getting it from. He began putting 87 oct from and non top tier gas station. There was only a 1/4 tank left so once the bg44k arrived I grabbed 2 5gal gas cans and filled up with some shell 93. I’m not touting the bg44k, just listing the steps I took but the car started up and idled fine. It didn’t stall and I was able to drive the car for 30+ minutes without issue.

I’ll update this thread later. Hopefully he just bought a bad tank of gas. After all the other stuff they’ve fixed in the past year they just wanted to not spend another dime.


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Let that be a lesson about using cheap gas. Cheap gas used to work well up until the mid 90's when the engines started being totally computer controlled.

The CPU's are programmed for the conditions of a new engine, with parameters to allow for variances as the engine ages. Bad gas wreaks havoc on the system as the gas start to affect injector operation. The CPU treats this condition as a mechanical issue, killing power, trying to save an engine from further damage. In the past, the engine would run a little rough and your fuel MPG would go down, but you could still drive normal.

I follow three rules when it comes to fueling my vehicles'.

1. Use the same top tier fuel provider. Testing has show Shell and Sunoco to be at the top in my area, along with more MPG then others.

2. If possible, always use the same fuel station. If you do end up with a fuel issue, you'll know where it came from.

3. Always use a middle octane fuel, unless the vehicle requires 93 octane. The cost difference between bottom and middle octane ratings is usually about 10 - 20 cents. Because you're getting more power from the slightly higher octane fuel, you will see better MPG on the highway, making up for the slightly higher cost.

I only had a fuel problem with my '03 Murano one time. I was on a high speed trip to Maine due to an emergency and had to stop to refuel about 100 miles from my destination. Normally I'd arrive with about 1/4 tank left. Small no name place. Luckily, I only put $20 in the tank (I was really in a rush). Ten miles down the road, the pedal started to feel like slush. The next day the tank was filled with 93 octane and an fuel treatment. Took several tanks before my mileage went back to normal. Lesson learned!

Have a good day.
 

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I'm betting the brother cheaped out on gas, ran regular from the cheapest place he could find. And if he did that, he may have neglected other issues.

Keep feeding it the BG or use Techron. If it's the injectors, hopefully those will clean them. And buy your gas from a major brand station, not a discount place.

And you might use mid-octane gas for a while. I don't recall whether the 2010 was as flexible about octane as the series 1 Muranos were, but it won't hurt. Check the owner's manual and confirm the octane recommended for your version.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Car drives really well now. It’s my first time behind the wheel of Murano let alone a Nissan. Enjoying the heck out of it. Might let my high mileage V8 4Runner go and just keep the Murano.
I’ll keep lurking around this forum. Thanks!





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Discussion Starter #5
Drove car today and the sputtering came back. It eventually lead to a stall and now won’t start. Error code P0300 is back.
Need to figure out why it would run perfect for 120-150 miles then go back to stalling out. Seems like an electrical sensor that takes an entire engine cycle to get read and trip the check engine light.


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Drove car today and the sputtering came back. It eventually lead to a stall and now won’t start. Error code P0300 is back.
Need to figure out why it would run perfect for 120-150 miles then go back to stalling out. Seems like an electrical sensor that takes an entire engine cycle to get read and trip the check engine light.


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Can your scan tool read live data and access mode $06 so you can review the misfire counters?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Can your scan tool read live data and access mode $06 so you can review the misfire counters?
I have an Autel MD802. It have a live data module. I’ll give that a try but would I get a misfire count if I can’t get it started?


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I have an Autel MD802. It have a live data module. I’ll give that a try but would I get a misfire count if I can’t get it started?


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Check to see if the misfire counters for each cylinder have anything stored there. If there is, it might provide a clue on what's going on. For example, if there are only misfires on the 1,3,5 cylinders then you know the problem is with bank 1. You should also be able to see LTFT for both banks just with the ignition on and that could tell you if the car was running rich/lean at idle. Since it's now a cranking no-start, I'd start there by checking spark, fuel etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If you graph RPMs in live data on your scan tool, does it register anything when cranking the engine?
I’ll get back out to the car on Friday. I’ve got it parked out of the way. I’ll try to run the live data test and see if anything comes up.


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Discussion Starter #14
Got both cam sensors and crank sensor put in. Car wouldn’t start. Assumed throttle relearn but by the time I started plugging my code reader in the battery died. Going to charge it over night and see tomorrow if I can pull live data while it’s turning over.

I’ll update with what I find.


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Are you sure your battery is healthy? How old is it?

I'd have it load tested to be sure, especially if it's been run down enough to need to be recharged several times (which degrades the battery capacity.)

Computer controlled cars like our Muranos need a healthy battery to operate properly. I have seen reports that even if a battery has enough power to turn the engine over, there still may not be enough capacity left to satisfy the requirements of the computer controls.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Even with battery on the tender all night it wouldn’t start. Turned over but wouldn’t catch. Then it started the clicking noise. I grabbed an optima out of my 4runner then stared at the engine bay for a bit. Checked all the connections and vacuum lines. Found two small ground wires on the passenger side of the top of the engine. They were pretty loose. Tightened those down and it fired up. Drove down the road and back. Loosened the wires and it started. Had my dad wiggle them while it was running and the RPMs dropped and she died.

Think my issue was bad ground contacts.


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Post a pic of those two loose wires.

That would have been my next step. Checking all ground contact points and electrical connections. Very possible the shops that did all the repairs with that car forgot to tighten those or intentionally had it loose to generate business.

Your battery may need replacement if its 3 years old.
 

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Even with battery on the tender all night it wouldn’t start. Turned over but wouldn’t catch. Then it started the clicking noise. I grabbed an optima out of my 4runner then stared at the engine bay for a bit. Checked all the connections and vacuum lines. Found two small ground wires on the passenger side of the top of the engine. They were pretty loose. Tightened those down and it fired up. Drove down the road and back. Loosened the wires and it started. Had my dad wiggle them while it was running and the RPMs dropped and she died.

Think my issue was bad ground contacts.


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Was it these ground connections circled in red that were loose?

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Discussion Starter #19
Yes it was. I was just about to post this picture. Man, the shop that did all this work left so much stuff loose, screws missing or just lazy. It was a busy shop all certified mechanics. I was fishing screws/bolts out of the center valley of the engine with a magnet. The screw for the rear bracket on the intake is missing.
I stole this pic but circled in red the two grounding points that were loose.




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Yes it was. I was just about to post this picture. Man, the shop that did all this work left so much stuff loose, screws missing or just lazy. It was a busy shop all certified mechanics. I was fishing screws/bolts out of the center valley of the engine with a magnet. The screw for the rear bracket on the intake is missing.
I stole this pic but circled in red the two grounding points that were loose.




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Yeah, those are the ground connections for all the ignition coils. It all makes sense now. Good to hear you're apparently back on the road.
 
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