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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone successfully replace this O2 sensor? It is the sensor closest to the firewall. I have been trying all angles And having a real tough time getting it out. Anyone just take apart the upper wiper blade area to get better access?
 

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Anyone successfully replace this O2 sensor? It is the sensor closest to the firewall. I have been trying all angles And having a real tough time getting it out. Anyone just take apart the upper wiper blade area to get better access?
Are you trying to do this job without removing the windshield cowl top? If so, yes, take it off.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Yes, I tried from the side and underneath and what a nightmare trying to get any leverage. Is that the recommended approach to get at it easier?
 

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Yes, I tried from the side and underneath and what a nightmare trying to get any leverage. Is that the recommended approach to get at it easier?
Yes, you'll be grateful for how much extra space removing the cowl top gives and it only takes 10-15 minutes or less to remove (...probably take a bit longer if you've never done it before). One thing is that the brake level switch and wiper motor wiring harnesses are affixed to the cowl top with cable tie clips and you can waste a lot of time trying to remove these while still keeping them intact. My advice is to buy a cheap set of locking wiring harness clips on Amazon to replace the OEM cable ties. This way you can just rip the old cable tie clips out, swap in the new ones and next time around removing the harnesses will be a snap (...you may have to use some electrical tape to get the new clips to seat more snuggly) .
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Removing the cowl was easy, unfortunately I cannot get the O2 socket to grab. Unlike the downstream sensors this sensor has a metal ring around it which is preventing the socket from getting to bottom of the sensor to unscrew it. I may need to get a cut it out to get to it. I have attached a picture.
51107
 

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Removing the cowl was easy, unfortunately I cannot get the O2 socket to grab. Unlike the downstream sensors this sensor has a metal ring around it which is preventing the socket from getting to bottom of the sensor to unscrew it. I may need to get a cut it out to get to it. I have attached a picture.
Are you using an O2 sensor socket? If so, those usually have thicker walls so you might want to just cut the pigtail off the A/F sensor and use a regular deep well socket. Obviously, there's no going back if you go this route.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes, exactly what I was thinking. The sensor sockets are definitely thicker. Will let you know how it goes. I have been holding back on cutting it as there is no return once I do. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Done! That was brutal. Finally got it out with a regular 7/8th socket. Things got worse when it stripped the threads on the way out. Had to buy a sensor thread chaser to create new threads.. Highly recommend to buy one if you are doing this job as there is no way to get the new one in without new threads. Not sure why Nissan put a metal ring around the factory sensor, but it prevents you from using a sensor socket. Thanks for the feedback “I need a coffee”
51112
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51114
 

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Done! That was brutal. Finally got it out with a regular 7/8th socket. Things got worse when it stripped the threads on the way out. Had to buy a sensor thread chaser to create new threads.. Highly recommend to buy one if you are doing this job as there is no way to get the new one in without new threads. Not sure why Nissan put a metal ring around the factory sensor, but it prevents you from using a sensor socket. Thanks for the feedback “I need a coffee”
Glad you got it out. Good pics--that thing was toast! Looks like the hex nut almost got rounded out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Glad you got it out. Good pics--that thing was toast! Looks like the hex nut almost got rounded out.
Wow, PA200 returned after replacing both A/F sensors. Also cleaned the MAF. Wondering if I should replace the sensor leading up to bank 1 sensor 1
51121
 

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Have you checked around for vacuum leaks? How do your long-term fuel trims look at idle?

Did you reset the A/F ratio learned values after repacing the sensors? If not, do the following and see if the code comes back (from pp 21-22 of the Engine Control section of the service manual):
1. Warm the engine up to operating temperature and then shut off the ignition;
2. Disconnect the MAF sensor connector;
3. Start the engine and let it idle for a little while (MIL should come on with P0102 code);
4. Shut off the engine and clear the codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Have you checked around for vacuum leaks? How do your long-term fuel trims look at idle?

Did you reset the A/F ratio learned values after repacing the sensors? If not, do the following and see if the code comes back (from pp 21-22 of the Engine Control section of the service manual):
1. Warm the engine up to operating temperature and then shut off the ignition;
2. Disconnect the MAF sensor connector;
3. Start the engine and let it idle for a little while (MIL should come on with P0102 code);
4. Shut off the engine and clear the codes.
No, I didn’t do this. Other than the code coming back 2 days later it is idling and running great and I have noticed the fuel economy increase. I will give this a shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
No, I didn’t do this. Other than the code coming back 2 days later it is idling and running great and I have noticed the fuel economy increase. I will give this a shot.
Ok, when unplugged it won’t even start. Plugged it back it and started and I was able to pick up code p0113 as a result. Cleared it and hopefully all is reset and good now. No news is good news, thanks again
 

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Ok, when unplugged it won’t even start. Plugged it back it and started and I was able to pick up code p0113 as a result. Cleared it and hopefully all is reset and good now. No news is good news, thanks again
When you tried to start with the MAF disconnected, was the engine warmed up and ignition off when you disconnected it?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
When you tried to start with the MAF disconnected, was the engine warmed up and ignition off when you disconnected it?
:). Yes. Warmed up, turned it off, unplugged and when trying to start it didn’t even try to turn over. Plugged it back in and started no problem and then I erased the code. If it doesn’t come back on within the next couple of days I think all is good. I notice a positive difference since replacing so without the code returning I think I am in good shape now.
 

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:). Yes. Warmed up, turned it off, unplugged and when trying to start it didn’t even try to turn over. Plugged it back in and started no problem and then I erased the code. If it doesn’t come back on within the next couple of days I think all is good. I notice a positive difference since replacing so without the code returning I think I am in good shape now.
That's odd. Just simply disconnecting the MAF sensor shouldn't prevent the engine from cranking. BTW...what year is your car?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
2009 Murano SL.
Code returned again two days later. Wondering if I should replace the other sensor pre-cat leading upstream as shown in the picture above? Idle/running is smooth
 

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2009 Murano SL.
Code returned again two days later. Wondering if I should replace the other sensor pre-cat leading upstream as shown in the picture above? Idle/running is smooth
The code you're getting applies to bank 1, sensor 1 so I doubt changing the other A/F sensor is going to help.

After researching this code further, it looks like the PCM monitors the A/F sensor voltages and if they report either a lean or rich signal for too long of a time period then this code is thrown. Have you checked for vacuum leaks? What does LTFT for bank 1 read with the engine warmed up just sitting at idle?

Also, you're in Canada so corrosion-related problems can be an issue. Have you inspected the ground connection? It's the same one used for the MAF sensor (E38 in the engine harness diagram in pg.pdf file of the service manual) and is located underneath the airbox (...there are two ground terminals next to each other--it's the bottom one).
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The code you're getting applies to bank 1, sensor 1 so I doubt changing the other A/F sensor is going to help.

After researching this code further, it looks like the PCM monitors the A/F sensor voltages and if they report either a lean or rich signal for too long of a time period then this code is thrown. Have you checked for vacuum leaks? What does LTFT for bank 1 read with the engine warmed up just sitting at idle?

Also, you're in Canada so corrosion-related problems can be an issue. Have you inspected the ground connection? It's the same one used for the MAF sensor (E38 in the engine harness diagram in pg.pdf file of the service manual) and is located underneath the airbox (...there are two ground terminals next to each other--it's the bottom one).
Will need to buy a fog machine to test for vacuum leaks. You would think it would run a bit rough if there was a vacuum leak though. I will need to check/replace the harness as well, it’s just such a pain to get to it. The harness is definitely working as I have noticed a difference after changing the sensor.
 
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