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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
For at least a few years I've toyed with the idea of removing the orignal driveshafts, since they've got better than 284,000 miles on them and because I'm gearing up to donate MO to a tech school, so I'd kind of like to give it a try...maybe. Removing the driveshafts isn't a problem, and installing a plug to cap the rear axle opening and one for the transfer case shouldn't be a problem. In my thinking, the problem lies with the speed sensors...and the transfer case still being attached to the tranny. If the rear speed sensors remain in place, how would that affect Winter driving when MO slips into AWD mode? Naturally, I'm guessing I'd have to disable whatever AWD circuitry exists to tell the computer AWD isn't present. Would I have to reflash all AWD-applicable computer components to show FWD instead of AWD? Or would I have to switch out certain computer-controlled components with ones meant for a FWD MO? I don't suppose I could just pop a relay that controls the AWD fuction and be done with it. As for the transfer case...not entirely sure, unless I want to destroy the current TC for good. I might have to keep it mated...

Anyone ever thought about doing this, or has done it successfully? And I'd like this to work where the SES light isn't staying on... :)
 

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I believe that there's a post about this already. From memory, remove the rear shaft, capping the transfer case opening and unplugging the transfer case wiring. Car will drive FWD all the time, but a dash light is lite, don't remember which one. I believe that you also loss FWD traction control, potentially leading to a single spinning wheel when in snow.

A search will probably give you more info.

Have a good day.
 

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For at least a few years I've toyed with the idea of removing the orignal driveshafts, since they've got better than 284,000 miles on them and because I'm gearing up to donate MO to a tech school, so I'd kind of like to give it a try...maybe. Removing the driveshafts isn't a problem, and installing a plug to cap the rear axle opening and one for the transfer case shouldn't be a problem. In my thinking, the problem lies with the speed sensors...and the transfer case still being attached to the tranny. If the rear speed sensors remain in place, how would that affect Winter driving when MO slips into AWD mode? Naturally, I'm guessing I'd have to disable whatever AWD circuitry exists to tell the computer AWD isn't present. Would I have to reflash all AWD-applicable computer components to show FWD instead of AWD? Or would I have to switch out certain computer-controlled components with ones meant for a FWD MO? I don't suppose I could just pop a relay that controls the AWD fuction and be done with it. As for the transfer case...not entirely sure, unless I want to destroy the current TC for good. I might have to keep it mated...

Anyone ever thought about doing this, or has done it successfully? And I'd like this to work where the SES light isn't staying on... :)
I have a 2nd gen and have driven around a while with the propeller shaft removed. Didn't really notice any difference as far as normal driving and fuel economy may have actually been better. The AWD system just uses an electronically-controlled clutch in the rear differential to engage the rear wheels. When it's engaged, the AWD Control Unit has no way of knowing that the front and rear wheels aren't connected unless you do something that causes a disparity in the rotational speed of the front vs. rear wheels (e.g. spin the front tires when accelerating from a stop). You don't even need to unplug the connector to the solenoid on the rear differential (which would illuminate the AWD light since that circuit is actively monitored).

Try it out--you can always put it back in, but just make sure you paint marks on the transfer case, rear differential, and propeller shaft flanges so that it's reinstalled in exactly the same position as you took it out. Otherwise, you may get vibration issues at high speeds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I did a lot searching before posting, and didn't find a single post related to this topic.

Thanks for the info, coffee, sounds much easier than I expected. Right now, I've noticed oil on the side-bottom of the bank 1-side of the engine, so I've got to see what's going on with that. I've got new valve cover gaskets I've been expecting to use for the past four years. Figured I'd wait until there was a problem. :) Also smelling coolant again, so I'm guessing that six-year-old block leak is compromised again. In addition, what I suspect is the tranny making a "phasing in and out" whining sound when started cold in the morning could be one problem too many right now for me to start trying other things. MO also started throwing code P0128 related to the thermostat operating below temperature, so I might have to dig into my box of new parts and replace the original thermostat.

I might not make it to 300K before giving her up if too many problems keep emerging due to these below-freezing days. Might be time to call it quits with this vehicle and let some students fix her up.
 

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I need help. I unbolted the back of the driveshaft and took the 4 in front by the trans off and the drive shaft will not come off. What am I doing wrong? It's fully disconnected its a 03 murano
 

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If all the bolts are removed then it's probably just rust holding it together. Tap on the driveshaft flange with a hammer.
 
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Ok I finally had time to mess with it. I got tge drive shaft off. Should where it connects to the transfer case be all louse and move around or should it be solid and just turn?
 
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