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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone, I have a 2017 Nissan Murano. My front driver side door will not unlock/lock with the key fob (unlocks all 3 other doors) but front driver side I have to manually lock/unlock with the key. Has anyone else had this problem? My local Nissan says it will be close to $1000.00 to fix it. Ridiculous. Now I have also found out that none of my mirrors can be moved by using the mirror switch on the door panel. Very frustrating that as soon as my vehicle is no longer under warranty all these “electrical” issues start happening.
Wondering if anyone else has these problems, what you did etc. any advice or tips would be so much appreciated!
Thank you!
 

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Maybe something has become disconnected in the door or the armrest switches...

Check the fuses just to be sure. Although I would think a blown fuse would affect the other doors too...
 

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Does the inside electrical lock button activate it to lock? Either a broke wire or a bad lock solenoid, maybe. You will need to come back and let us know. There are folks here that can help. Posting 1 post and leaving which we all see a lot, won't help fix the problem.
 

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I’m not leaving ?
I'm not sure what that means. Please read the posts above and respond meaningfully.

And if there's a noise inside that door when you try to lock/iunlock it, there might be a physical failure in the door lock mechanism.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Actually my post was appropriate I replied to “Chidog”s comment which said: You will need to come back and let us know. There are folks here that can help. Posting 1 post and leaving which we all see a lot, won't help fix the problem.

so I said I am not leaving in response to him!
 

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Actually my post was appropriate I replied to “Chidog”s comment which said: You will need to come back and let us know. There are folks here that can help. Posting 1 post and leaving which we all see a lot, won't help fix the problem.

so I said I am not leaving in response to him!
OK, to explain a bit: be aware that many people post once and never return, so the responses to their post seem to be wasted. I would say that post was well-meaning but premature.
 
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Thank you for the answer Whitney. But there is more to my post above. You said key fob, and I asked about the button inside. Lets help fix your problem. There are many here that can help figure this problem out.
 

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I just set the meter to test for continuity (meaning there is a connection, also known as zero ohms or no resistance). Most meters will give you a beep when there is a connection. Those videos are good, but the second one is a bit of overkill.
 

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This falls under the process of elimination,for me anyways. I think it's clear from the "works for the other doors, just not the one" that this is isolated to the one door.

It could be something as simple as something disconnected or possibly a malfunctioning or failure of a component.

That's where the "1,000.00 to replace" doesn't quite sit well...so for me, on a 2017 vehicle, the dealer would be out. This could be handled with some self diag, like others mentioned above, but not everyone is comfortable with removing door skins and whatnot [though, it's not difficult, it just takes familiarity with the process]. If it were truly the fuse element, one would think they would all be inoperable, so there's that.

You could try a quick diagnosis at a facility that specializes in stereo/auto start/alarm install, as the FOB controls and door operations are right in their wheelhouse and their labor rates won't destroy the wallet. Easy for me to say, I suppose, as I have 3 or 4 that are within minutes of me, but others may not, but it should be on the table. I'm not talking some Best Buy install bay, but more of an established and skillful car electronic specialist. Doesn't have to be some luxury car specialty spot either, just reputable and know the diag rates before okaying the work.
if you do decide to open up the door panel yourself--- you will need to have patience and a "light" hand when pulling apart panels and separating clips and hidden screws [generally YouTube will have this sort of instructional video]

It's an inconvenience, sure, but something tells me it's an easier fix than you may think, and again, only start with disassembly of a newer car panel if you have a handle on it, are fully comfortable doing it, and having a panel tool kit and replacement assorted screws and/or vinyl clips may also be handy to have.

Good luck and do post the results and findings.
 

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Good analysis above. If it happens only to one door, it's probably not a fuse, because I believe there is only one fuse for the lock/unlock electrical circuit.

I would start by using the lock/unlock fob and listening carefully to the driver's door (maybe press your ear against it.) If you hear the mechanism moving in the door, then there is a good chance there is something wrong with the linkage; the mechanism is trying to unlock but it's disconnected. In that case I'd pull the door panel and see if there's something loose or disconnected.

If you don't hear anything happening in the door, then unless you find a specific fuse for that door, it's probably either a bad door lock or the wiring going to the door. Wires have been known to break when being flexed repeatedly. I wouldn't expect that with a 2017 vehicle unless that door has been opened and closed a lot more than normal.
 
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