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YESTERDAY AFTERNOON I GO TO PEP BOYS TO GET SOME CLEANING PRODUCTS I GO TO MY MO TO UNLOCK WITH REMOTE AND ALL THE DOORS UNLOCK EXCEPT THE DRIVERS DOOR , THEN I TRIED TO UNLOCK A COUPLE OF MORE TIMES WITH THE REMOTE NO LUCK. THEN I CLIMB THROUGH THE PASSENGER SIDE TO GET IN AND THEN ATTEMPTED TO UNLOCK THE DRIVERS FROM INSIDE DID NOT WORK. I WAS WONDERING IF ANYONE ELSE HAVE THIS PROBLEM ON ANY MURANO. I HAVE A 04 SE AWD . AFTER I POST THIS I AM CALLING THE DEALERSHIP.:confused:
 

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ZMURANO said:
I GO TO MY MO TO UNLOCK WITH REMOTE AND ALL THE DOORS UNLOCK EXCEPT THE DRIVERS DOOR , THEN I TRIED TO UNLOCK A COUPLE OF MORE TIMES WITH THE REMOTE NO LUCK. THEN I CLIMB THROUGH THE PASSENGER SIDE TO GET IN AND THEN ATTEMPTED TO UNLOCK THE DRIVERS FROM INSIDE DID NOT WORK..:confused:
Sounds like something came undone.... Did you try the key? It's gotta be that something needs to be reattached. Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #3
re

i used the key after the couple attempts with the remote the key did not unlock the driver door. i did not want force the key to unlock it would probably cause more harm and its not worth it i will let the dealership figure it out. thanks for your feedback. do you know anyone in the forum with this problem. thanks

zmurano
 

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I haven't heard of this problem before, so it looks like you're lucky. (Unfortunately, Bad luck.)

Too bad it won't open from the inside, else you could press and hold the unlock to roll down the front windows.

:(
 

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I wonder if someone tried to break into your car and messed up the lock!
 

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More info than you probably want to know, but it could be interesting nonetheless:

BCM is Body Contol Module


POWER DOOR LOCK SYSTEM
System Description
Power is supplied at all times
 to BCM terminal 55
 through 50A fusible link (letter F , located in the fuse and fusible link box)
 to BCM terminal 42
 through 10A fuse [No. 18, located in the fuse block (J/B)]
 to key switch terminal 3
 through 10A fuse [No. 21, located in the fuse block (J/B)].
When key switch is ON (key is inserted in ignition key cylinder), power is supplied
 to BCM terminal 37
 through key switch terminal 4.
Ground is supplied
 to BCM terminal 52
 through body grounds M14 and M78.
When front door switch (driver side) is ON (door is OPEN), ground is supplied
 to BCM terminal 62
 through front door switch (driver side) terminals 4 and 5
 through body grounds M14 and M78.
When front door switch (passenger side) is ON (door is OPEN), ground is supplied
 to BCM terminal 12
 through front door switch (passenger side) terminals 4 and 5
 through body grounds M14 and M78.
When rear door switch LH is ON (door is OPEN), ground is supplied
 to BCM terminal 63
 through rear door switch LH terminals 4 and 5
 through body grounds B7 and B20.
When rear door switch RH is ON (door is OPEN), ground is supplied
 to BCM terminal 13
 through rear door switch RH terminals 4 and 5
 through body grounds B105 and B116.
When back door switch is ON (back door is OPEN), ground is supplied
 to BCM terminal 58
 through back door switch terminals 1 and 3
 through body grounds B7 and B20.
When door is locked and unlocked with power window main switch (door lock and unlock switch), ground is
supplied
 to CPU of power window main switch
 through power window main switch (door lock and unlock switch) terminal 17
 through body grounds M14 and M78.
Then power window main switch (door lock and unlock switch) operation signal is supplied.
 to BCM terminal 22
 through power window main switch (door lock and unlock switch) terminal 14.
When door is locked and unlocked with front power window switch (passenger side) (door lock and unlock
switch), ground is supplied
 to CPU of front power window switch (passenger side)
 through front power window switch (passenger side) (door lock and unlock switch) terminal 11
 through body grounds M14 and M78.
Then front power window switch (passenger side) (door lock and unlock switch) operation signal is supplied
 to BCM terminal 22
 through front power window switch (passenger side) (door lock and unlock switch) terminal 16.
When door is locked with door key cylinder switch, ground is supplied
 to power window main switch (door lock and unlock switch) terminal 4
 through door key cylinder switch terminals 1 and 5
 through body grounds M14 and M78.
Then door key cylinder switch operation signal (lock) is supplied
 to BCM terminal 22
 through power window main switch (door lock and unlock switch) terminal 14.
When the door is unlocked with door key cylinder switch, ground is supplied
 to power window main switch (door lock and unlock switch) terminal 6
 through front door key cylinder switch (driver side) terminal 6 and 5
 through grounds M14 and M78.
Then door key cylinder switch operation signal (unlock) is supplied
 to BCM terminal 22
 through power window main switch (door lock and unlock switch) terminal 14.
BCM is connected to power window main switch and front power window switch (passenger side) as serial
link.
 

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I am not sure if an electrical diagram is going to help here, as ZMURANO said he could not unlock the door even with the key. So it sounds like some mechanical jam inside, not electrical.
 

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There's a pair of cables that run to the inside lever for the latch. If this latch seems jammed in one position, I'd say there's a major problem and you'll need to go to your dealer. If it moves, but the door won't release, maybe there's a chance you can push it open. Either way, it's not a home fix. Use the warranty! Even if you get it released, it may do it again. You really want the mechanism replaced.
 

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jaak said:
There's a pair of cables that run to the inside lever for the latch. If this seems jammed in one position, I'd say there's a major problem and you'll need to go to your dealer.

The thing that scares me, is the door finisher comes off when the door is open. I doubt they can get to mechanism easily if the door is jammed shut.
First rule of the Nissan dealership is, if its not broken but the customer complains about it, then they break it and say we can't fix it! I bet the dealer will force the door open (or use some special tool to pop the lock) and then worry about the consequences later on. Who knows, maybe its a problem other Nissans have, since I can't imagine the Murano uses a door lock mechanism exclusive only to the Murano.
 

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Eric, you don't miss a beat, that post was up for all of 10 seconds, then I changed it!
 

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My number of posts shows that

a) I live in my Murano
b) I am very bored at work
c) My email is really fast
d) All of the above :4:

hehe
 

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Sounds Familiar!:)
 

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Sounds to me like the lock actuator in the drivers door has gone south or it's not getting the signal to open (bad wiring or water got in some how and shorted it) The door lock is entirely dependant on electrical being recieved by the actuator. This is seen when you turn the key to unlock the door and it needs a couple of seconds before it actually "pops the lock". No mechanical device at all in there. I guess this means you can't use a slim jim to get into a MO huh. You owe me a beer. :D
 

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Snowride said:
Sounds to me like the lock actuator in the drivers door has gone south or it's not getting the signal to open (bad wiring or water got in some how and shorted it) The door lock is entirely dependant on electrical being recieved by the actuator. This is seen when you turn the key to unlock the door and it needs a couple of seconds before it actually "pops the lock". No mechanical device at all in there. I guess this means you can't use a slim jim to get into a MO huh. You owe me a beer. :D
Are you sure that is true? I find it hard to believe the drivers door lock is entirely electrical. That means if you disconnect the (-) battery cable with the drivers door locked, you should not be able to get back into the car! The trunk hatch has a manual release that can be accessed from the inside - I would imagine the door lock for the Murano is no different than your average car door with electric locks which can also be manually actuated.
 

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The only mechanical portion of the lock is the manual lock/unlock one which is right by the door handle (inside the car) and it basically pushes the actuator up or down via a cable. The keyed outside portion is just an electrical signal being sent when you turn the key, just like you would be when using the remote. He can easily test this by trying to unlock his door with the manual lock I just described. If it is now unlocked, we know it's an actuator problem. Come to think of it, it sure sounds like a dumb way of doing things. I will disconnect my battery and give her a try tomorrow but I'm almost 99.9% sure, just by the way it reacts when you use the key to unlock it.
 

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Ah that makes sense. You would think however, that the outside key lock may not be able to activate the powerlocks if the battery is disconnected, but you should be able to unlock the drivers door. If that is not the case, its almost as dumb as Volkswagen's design on the Touareg - when the battery goes dead, you cannot unlock the trunk, which is where the battery is located!
 

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Well I guess Nissans engineers are not as dumb as I thought. Pulled the positive lead of the battery and I am still able to lock and unlock the driver door from the outside with the key, so there is a mechanical connection from the outside also. (boy do I feel stupid) On another dissapointing Nissan note though, I found the negative terminal to be just very loosely sitting, halfway on the battery post. It is full of that red insulating stuff and it is easily seen that this was never tightened from the factory/dealership!!!!!!!!!! Don't have the foggiest clue on how it still made contact but thanks for saving me from a breakdown. :6: Took about six complete turns of the nut to tighten her up to where it should have been, maybe check yours out. (nuts that is.):2:

I still think the problem is a jammed actuator.
 

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Yeah one of the first things I did when I drove my Murano home from the dealership was tighten the battery terminals - I remember it came loose in my Maxima and scared me silly when it would not start one morning. So much for the "predelivery inspection." I personally think once you sign the contract and write them the check, they can do whatever they want to you - including letting you drive home in a car with no gas, overinflated tires, and loose battery terminals! :D
 

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ZMURANO said:
THEN I CLIMB THROUGH THE PASSENGER SIDE TO GET IN AND THEN ATTEMPTED TO UNLOCK THE DRIVERS FROM INSIDE DID NOT WORK.
This post is not much help with your problem, but I'm wondering why you didn't lower the windows with the keyless remote rather than climbing across the passenger side....:8:

Good luck with the fix.

Dave N.
'04 SE AWD
Glacier Pearl
 

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Snowride said:
Well I guess Nissans engineers are not as dumb as I thought. Pulled the positive lead of the battery and I am still able to lock and unlock the driver door from the outside with the key, so there is a mechanical connection from the outside also.
THERE HAS TO BE!! If you couldn't unlock the door with a dead battery, you not only couldn't get into the car but, more importantly, you couldn't get to the battery to recharge it.
 
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