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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking to change my wheels to something larger. 20's or 22's. But I can't seem to decide which. Please help me out in my quest to plus-size my wheels.

I know that having more sidewall makes for a softer ride, so that would make me more inclined to only go to 20's. How big of a difference would 20" wheels vs 22" wheels make as far as ride roughness goes? Most of the surface streets around here suck...all cracked, uneven, bumpy, etc. The thing I hate most about how my MO rides right now is the bounciness when I hit a series of bumps...the car gets into like a harmonic motion and keeps bouncing even after I've passed the bumps. Will shorter sidewalls mitigate the bouncing?

I don't think that 20" wheels and 5" sidewalls look much different than stock 18" wheels and 6" sidewalls, and I really like how 22's look on a MO. So points for aesthetics go to the 22's.

I also tow boats around to and from lakes. While pouring over the wheels and tires forum, somebody said that having short sidewalls is bad when you're pulling a trailer. Is this true? How is it bad?

Now a question about weight. First off, how much does the stock Murano wheel and tire weigh? I know that more unsprung weight is bad. But one of the wheels I'm considering is the Infinity FX45 wheel, and apparently it's 10 lbs heavier than the Murano stock wheel. Is 10 lbs going to make a huge difference in the ride quality?
 

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Box would be the best person to ask about the FX wheels, that is what he is running.
Smaller sidewalls tend to make sharp impacts even sharper, less pillow there.
As with anything, you have to give up one thing get another. Want a pillow ride? Get a 330--lose your cornering. Want a cornering car---get bumpier ride. Want fast--give up mileage, want mileage--give up fast.
About bouncing....
That is less the side walls and more about the shocks. Big sidewalls will give you squirm (latteral play). I have had some 32's on a Toy 4x4 on 15 inch wheels--can you say massive sidewall? What cured my bounce was shocks, ranchero 5000's made it pillow soft over dips and even getting air over jumps--made a HUGE differance and zero rebounds. And as we all know--we haven't seen any aftermarket shock folks catering to the Mo. I bet if some extension and compression measurements were taken on the Mo, there would be a shock made that would fit--just not advertised for the Mo.
I am with jaak on the sway bars as well, some beefier ones would be fab. The SL springs have the right feel for me, I just want a little less lean.
Tiny sidewalls have always been scary to me, especially with granite curbs here in Atlanta....just one oopsie and it would chew up a tire if not the wheel. Reminds me of the transam I saw once with a little girl standing beside it looking forlorn. She had drifted it off a corner and snapped off huge chuncks of her wheels against the curb> I guess that was better than rolling it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How does having small sidewalls make it easier to tear a tire? If you run up against a curb at speed, I would think having 2" more sidewall still wouldn't save you from getting ripped up. But then again I don't know much.

Yeah new shocks would cure my bounciness, I was just wondering if having thick tires contribute to bounce. I definitely notice squirm when I'm making turns, especially at speed. Even going around turns on the freeway. I always attributed it to the suspension for some reason though. If smaller sidewalls will help with that, that's cool.

Anybody care to weigh in on the trailering aspect?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I spoke to box through PM's. Here's what he said about added wheel weight:

b0xdesigns wrote on 11-07-2005 05:19 PM:

Do you have a SE or SL? I have an SE which had a pretty stiff ride to begin with. But I did notice it was a little rougher over pot holes. Not because of the added weight, It's most likely the lower profile tire that is the cause of it. It feels much more stable though with the 20's.
So I guess the next question would be, has anybody bought light aftermarket wheels (< 40 lbs) and noticed a smoother ride quality (not handling/traction issues)?
 

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Lower sidewalls tend to lead to a greater chance of rim damage if you drive on bad roads. On my Maxima I have 235/45/17 on 17x8 wheels and one time a city bus left a wheel chock on the road and being foggy San Francisco, I ran over it doing 40mph. My car literally went airborne and my head hit the ceiling! I escaped without injury, but my fancy Borbet rim (pass side front) from Germany suffered a dent in it (the tire compressed so much from hitting the metal brick that it dented the rim).

Amazing the tires were fine, but the rim had a bubble on the inner edge that was parallel to the road surface. The symptoms were a wobbly ride (like an unbalanced wheel, which is actually was), and immediately noticeable after the accident. Unfortunately by the time I returned to the scene, the bus was gone, as was the wheel chock, but my insurance took care of me nonetheless.
 

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I traded my 99 Toyota Solara for a 05 Murano two weeks ago. This is my first post.....

Anyway, my Solara had 225 45 17's on it and I had bad luck with the rims and tires. Pot holes destroyed three of my rims and 5 tires. The tires would bubble on the sidewall and the rims would dent making them hard to balance. I liked having the handling benefit and the look but disliked buying rims and tires all the time.

Another thing to think about is the effect larger rims have on braking. I have read that the extra weight of rims has an negative effect on braking performance.

Regards,
Scott
 

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Low profile tires increase the chance of rim damage because the wheel rim is closer to the ground. If you increase the air pressure enough to help protect the rims you decrease the ride comfort and likely to wear out the center tread of the tire quicker.
 

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Scottd said:
Another thing to think about is the effect larger rims have on braking. I have read that the extra weight of rims has an negative effect on braking performance.

Regards,
Scott
Actually the key is the rotating mass and the amount of kinetic energy rim/tire combination can store. The lower the mass and overall diameter the less energy can be stored and less stress on brakes in disipating the energy.......

Laws of physics cannot be changed. There is nothing for free. It is all in energy, and forms of it.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the replies. Lots of good info here.

Does anybody happen to know the weight of the stock wheels? I know the weight of wheel + tire + air = 60 lbs, but that won't help me shop for lightweight wheels.

Is the weight of air in a tire negligible? Or just one or two pounds?
 

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If it's useful, I have an SL rim (no tire) I can weigh for you...
 

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If you look at tirerack.com they will sometimes list the weights of different wheels and if it should be considered 'lightweight'.

I'd guess the Murano wheel is going to be around 30-35#. You should be able to find a good 18" wheel between 20-25. Be sure to pay attention to load ratings also. You don't want something that's designed support the weight of a Civic.
 

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GMTURBO43 said:
If you look at tirerack.com they will sometimes list the weights of different wheels and if it should be considered 'lightweight'.

I'd guess the Murano wheel is going to be around 30-35#. You should be able to find a good 18" wheel between 20-25. Be sure to pay attention to load ratings also. You don't want something that's designed support the weight of a Civic.
Thats a very light wheel 20-25lbs. It will likely be quite expensive.
 

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Eric L. said:


Thats a very light wheel 20-25lbs. It will likely be quite expensive.
Well, price hadn't been mentioned yet :)

Yeah - for the lighter wheels you will probably be around $250 - 400+ per rim. There are several good manufacturers - SSR, BBS, Ray's Engineering (Volk) all make light wheels.

Centerline also makes forged wheels that are pretty light. Sometimes the designs can be a bit over the top.
 
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