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We have issues with just the volume knob, you turn it up and it'll go down every other click or so. Turn it down and it'll go up every few clicks. Pretty nerve wracking, it's gotten me to really start using the steering wheel buttons. If it started happening on the fan control I'd go crazy for sure.
 

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We had the same issue with the volume control. You could turn it up and the volume may go down a notch or two and then go up. Or if you turned it down, it may go up first. Sometimes it may self adjust a bit. We took it to the dealership and they were able to swap the knob out the same day. You can feel the different in the knobs resistance to turning. Maybe there's a nut back there that can be tightened. Anyway, it's been fine since. The car is still under warranty, so no cost.
 

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We had the same issue with the volume control. You could turn it up and the volume may go down a notch or two and then go up. Or if you turned it down, it may go up first. Sometimes it may self adjust a bit. We took it to the dealership and they were able to swap the knob out the same day. You can feel the different in the knobs resistance to turning. Maybe there's a nut back there that can be tightened. Anyway, it's been fine since. The car is still under warranty, so no cost.
Are you sure that they didn't replace the entire radio unit?
 

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" unscrewed the PC board and soldered all the connections at these controls and the problem is fixed."
Those hairline flaws in the solder are called "cold solder joints" and they are fairly common in all sorts of electronics. Caused by improper heating/cooling of the solder when the connection is first made.


But all the talk about replacing the car's battery...That's just really odd, since the battery does NOT RUN THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. If the car is running, the alternator is supposed to be powering everything. The battery is just there for starting, for engine off, and for short heavy loads at low speeds. If the charging system is working properly, it "should" mask any low-battery problems as long as the car is running above idle speeds.


Most peculiar.
 

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jumping back in this because i saw it pop up.

my wife's '10 MO is doing this again. It's not the battery. It's clearly in the knobs themselves. It's not a system issues because the volume controls on the steering wheel are so finicky. We are out of warranty on our so we will deal with it. It's the worst problem we've encountered, no big deal.
 

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Some of the "knob" controls that just go around and around, are based on optical comparator disks instead of the old potentiometers. Buried somewhere down the shaft is a disk, typically with black and white stripes or bars on it, and a photosensor that "counts" every time the disk is rotated and a black bar swaps for a white one. In theory this is incredibly reliable, but I'd bet that if some type of dirt, lint, heavy dust, pet hair, etc. got in on the optical sensor, it could trigger the mechanism the same way, changing the view from "white" to "black" when the knob wasn't really being turned.


Some patience with removing the knob, cover plate, getting as much of the shaft exposed as you can, and then using tuner cleaner and "canned air" to try blowing out any debris *might* fix that. Shouldn't be able to do any harm, in any case.
 

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I have a 2011 Mo and this problem started just right after the end of warranty. It's unfortunate but what can I do? I've been using the switch on the steering wheel.
 

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Again, it's a relatively simple fix if you or a friend has some experience with a soldering iron. To get to it requires taking the control panel out. For my 2010 MO, pry open the bottom panel under the control panel that has the volume and heat and ac controls. That will reveal the two screws to remove the left and right trim panels, once removed pry up from the bottom and out. Then you will see 6 or 8 screws that holds the control panel on. Remove these and disconnect the 2 or 3 wiring connectors. Now the the panel is out, you have to remove the 10 or so silver screws that hold the green PC board to the plastic panel including the black plastic cover. Then pry the PC board up carefully as the knobs that hold it in place fall off. If you can pull the knobs off ahead of time, that works too. Then carefully solder all the connections on the volume type controls. I did them all, volume, fan, temp setting. I also sprayed it with tuner cleaner as Red suggests above. Reassemble. Works perfectly. Again, sorry I did not think to take pictures. Good luck!
 

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Same Problem - Not Battery related

I have a 2011 Murano SL AWD. It started randomly turning up the temperature and volume about a year ago. It only happened every couple of months, so I let it be - sometimes glitches happen.

Lately it's been happening every day - either the volume, or the temperature randomly rises as far as they can go. That's really not great when driving windy S curves in a canyon ;) More so the volume at any rate.

I just had the battery replaced in May of this year. The problem has increased - not diminished.:28:
 

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"sometimes glitches happen."
IBM used to say that for their small business servers, which used expensive error correction code (ECC) memory chips, you could expect four random data errors each year due to strikes from cosmic rays. Which the ECC chips would prevent.
But even then, there's a REASON for the glitches. Electronics never just get better, the failures just increase as the problem gets worse. (Well, unless you're breeding SKYNET, in which case it will get better. From it's point of view.)


I'd suggest taking it to the dealer, asking them to contact Nissan-US, and CC:ing Nissan to make sure it gets documented as a repair within warranty--assuming you are still covered. Or to refer it back to the first documented complaint that you have with the dealer, to try to get it covered.


Could just be a loose wire, but it is often triple-digit "modules" that get swapped out these days. After all, you did pay for a warranty as part of the price of the car.
 

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Again, it's a relatively simple fix if you or a friend has some experience with a soldering iron. To get to it requires taking the control panel out. For my 2010 MO, pry open the bottom panel under the control panel that has the volume and heat and ac controls. That will reveal the two screws to remove the left and right trim panels, once removed pry up from the bottom and out. Then you will see 6 or 8 screws that holds the control panel on. Remove these and disconnect the 2 or 3 wiring connectors. Now the the panel is out, you have to remove the 10 or so silver screws that hold the green PC board to the plastic panel including the black plastic cover. Then pry the PC board up carefully as the knobs that hold it in place fall off. If you can pull the knobs off ahead of time, that works too. Then carefully solder all the connections on the volume type controls. I did them all, volume, fan, temp setting. I also sprayed it with tuner cleaner as Red suggests above. Reassemble. Works perfectly. Again, sorry I did not think to take pictures. Good luck!

Hi there. So my 2011 murano LE has been having these issues for a couple years now and it's progressively getting worse. Volume and climate control randomly jump up to full blast and now it's starting to stay there... Not good. Thinking about re-soldering the control board as spelled out above. Anyone else with these issues have luck doing this? Thanks!
 

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Same problem on my 2010 Murano, tolerating for a few months now, turning the volume control clockwise would decrease volume or fan would all of a sudden speed up by itself. The issue is dirt accumulated in the optical encoder, much like your computer mouse, after a while, dirt gets trapped in there and you can't control the cursor.

Fairly easy fix, I didn't even remove the panel, just pull out the control knobs using a plier (be sure to cover them with a towel to avoid scratches). Spray some electronic contact cleaner (MAF sensor cleaner works great), onto the control shaft and the part on the circuit board.

I don't have compressed air, so I put a shop vac on it. Rotate the knobs and test, may have to repeat if really dirty. Works like new again!! I also updated the plastic knobs with the aluminium ones from 2011+ Murano, giving it a more modern look and better feel.
 

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Heater & Volume Control problems

I have the same problem! Dealer just said they could not find a problem. I rotated the volume control back and forth and it seemed to be ok for a while, wife says it happens to her a lot, I believe it is grit in the potentiometer,
 

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I have the same problems with volume and temp control knobs on my 2011, which I bought about 20 months ago. And the temp control seems to be getting more fidgety over time. Turn lightly and it may go in either direction. Damn nearly random.

I was also really surprised the other day when backing out of a parking space, and having the steering cranked to one or the other detents, (I don't remember which,) the volume climbed right up to maximum.

Although the volume increase when having the steering wheel cranked doesn't fit in with the knobs needing cleaning, it could have had nothing to do with my turning the steering wheel at all, I suppose.

I'm not about to start trying to solder on the pcb, but cleaners make sense to me. It is getting worse. Guess I'll have to try something...
 

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Easy Fix

Same problem on my 2010 Murano, tolerating for a few months now, turning the volume control clockwise would decrease volume or fan would all of a sudden speed up by itself. The issue is dirt accumulated in the optical encoder, much like your computer mouse, after a while, dirt gets trapped in there and you can't control the cursor.

Fairly easy fix, I didn't even remove the panel, just pull out the control knobs using a plier (be sure to cover them with a towel to avoid scratches). Spray some electronic contact cleaner (MAF sensor cleaner works great), onto the control shaft and the part on the circuit board.

I don't have compressed air, so I put a shop vac on it. Rotate the knobs and test, may have to repeat if really dirty. Works like new again!! I also updated the plastic knobs with the aluminium ones from 2011+ Murano, giving it a more modern look and better feel.
I've had this problem for 6 months with our 2011 MO and didn't want to spend the money at the dealer to get it repaired. I spent 10 bucks at AutoZone for electronic spray, used my fingers to pry off the knobs, used my air compressor to blow out the encoders, used the spray, waited an hour and did it again and so far so good. radio volume and temp controls are much better.


Anyone else used this method? Would like to know how often it has to be repeated.
 

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Resurrecting this thread again. I'm still having this problem with both volume and temp control.

I did get some relief by blowing compressed air down the shafts of the knobs, but it was short lived relief.

May try some spray cleaner next.

Anyone else find a better solution without soldering? Does Nissan acknowledge the problem or offer a fix?
 

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Just wanted to thank everyone here for this thread and the contact cleaner tip.
Used CRC spray electronic contact cleaner (from Wal****) and the control knobs in my 2010 Mo SL AWD work like new again. This has been our only real annoyance with this vehicle since new, and it was great to find such an easy and inexpensive fix. It's been 2 weeks and controls remain perfect. Cleaner was only $5. Definitely worth a try.
 

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Just wanted to thank everyone here for this thread and the contact cleaner tip.
Used CRC spray electronic contact cleaner (from Wal****) and the control knobs in my 2010 Mo SL AWD work like new again. This has been our only real annoyance with this vehicle since new, and it was great to find such an easy and inexpensive fix. It's been 2 weeks and controls remain perfect. Cleaner was only $5. Definitely worth a try.
Can you tell me where you directed the spray? I'm still having problems with mine.
 

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I just sprayed it into the holes where the knobs were before removal. I sprayed generously, let it dry, then replaced the knobs. If that does not help, you may have the solder issue mentioned earlier in the thread. Apparently, my circuit board solder joints are OK.
Good luck.
 
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