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Discussion Starter #1
I’ll try to make this a quick read. Anyways, I replaced the valve covers/gaskets a few weeks ago due to leaks. Additionally, I replaced a bad rear AFR sensor (B1S1). Since I had everything off, I also replaced ALL spark plugs and only the 3 rear coils with an aftermarket set. All OEM coils were still fine but I figured to replace the rear 3 so I don’t have to go back there again.

Everything was running fine and my CEL disappeared due to the bad AFR sensor. After a drive up to the mountains this weekend, I am now getting a random misfire. The car started sputtering and at one point the CEL flashed for a few seconds, then staying solid. The misfire is felt when reving, reversing and accelerating for the most part.. but it is random.

Therefore, I went to autozone to have my codes checked yesterday and came back with a P0300 (random misfire). Without finding a specific cause, I got back into my car to leave and noticed that the CEL randomly turned off. The misfiring is still there randomly but now the CEL is at least off. Car shakes when on the gas during acceleration, so I have to let it off the gas to stop shaking. Any ideas or similar experiences?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Ive only had one other small issue a few times in the past few weeks, which would go away each time. I felt that my car was not pulling properly when I would press down on the gas pedal and eventually it would kick in/start pulling as if I floored the car. Ive looked into this online and saw that it may be an intake issue and/or a bad MAF?

I checked my intake and everything is on securely. Could a bad MAF sensor not be throwing a code but cause the weird pedal feeling and bad misfire? I’m kind of lost as where to look next..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I need a good amount of help at this point... The car is misfiring very badly as I drive it and the CEL keeps flashing on and off every minute down the road. I’m just hoping that the 3 aftermarket coils I purchased didn’t burn down and cause more issues themselves...my intention was to have the car run better for longer by replacing them.


Sucks because I can’t even swap those out for the factory ones at this point without removing everything... like the intake mani.
 

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Maybe the new valve cover is not sealing the plugs. I would check the front 3 plugs first for oil in the well and then the firewall side once you pull out the intake. If the 3 old oem coils that you pulled out was fine and dry - no oil contamination, I would put it back in and see if that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for the response!...any feedback helps...

The car drove fine for about 3 weeks but I’ll start by looking at the 3 front coils...maybe swap them out for the other 3 old spare ones I have from the rear?. Otherwise, there was no oil previously up front from that cover (only in the rear - #5 cylinder tube) but I’ll make sure to check at least the front and hope I don’t have to pull out the intake mani again.

I’m just hoping that these rear new coils aren’t garbage...since they are aftermarket.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
UPDATE: I just went ahead and replaced the 3 rear coils with the factory set and the car runs flawlessly. I had a big hunch those were at fault to begin with. Took about 45 minutes total, by just moving the intake mani over from side to side to get to the coils... without actually removing it completely or having many hoses or cables removed, as normally suggested.

What’s crazy is that my car has 245K miles on it and the factory coils still work better than the new aftermarket set. Regardless, I needed the car running, so if the factory coils need replacing in the future, at least I know I have a way to get to them quickly at this point.

Thanks for the help!
 

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UPDATE: I just went ahead and replaced the 3 rear coils with the factory set and the car runs flawlessly. I had a big hunch those were at fault to begin with. Took about 45 minutes total, by just moving the intake mani over from side to side to get to the coils... without actually removing it completely or having many hoses or cables removed, as normally suggested.



What’s crazy is that my car has 245K miles on it and the factory coils still work better than the new aftermarket set. Regardless, I needed the car running, so if the factory coils need replacing in the future, at least I know I have a way to get to them quickly at this point.



Thanks for the help!


Are you on the original tranny?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Nope, I lucked out. I have an 04 and it was replaced under warranty at 96k miles in 2011. It has been running great ever since. Still running on the same CVT fluid and not looking to replace it at this point. I just make sure that it’s always topped off.
 

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Nope, I lucked out. I have an 04 and it was replaced under warranty at 96k miles in 2011. It has been running great ever since. Still running on the same CVT fluid and not looking to replace it at this point. I just make sure that it’s always topped off.


That’s a lot of miles after it was replaced. Do you know if the new tranny is revised in any way and thus better?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The new tranny was brand new and replaced at Nissan in 2011. From what I’ve heard, it is the same exact CVT.. but for some reason the ones manufactured in 03-04 weren’t as “good” as the batch of CVTs manufactured in the later years.

Could be a myth, or maybe something else was used/replaced internally, I dunno. Just something I’ve heard someone say on here in the past.

Maybe all of the later year CVTs were manufactured only on Wednesdays? Who knows...
 

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The new tranny was brand new and replaced at Nissan in 2011. From what I’ve heard, it is the same exact CVT.. but for some reason the ones manufactured in 03-04 weren’t as “good” as the batch of CVTs manufactured in the later years.

Could be a myth, or maybe something else was used/replaced internally, I dunno. Just something I’ve heard someone say on here in the past.

Maybe all of the later year CVTs were manufactured only on Wednesdays? Who knows...
When I had the CVT replaced in my 03 due to the famous lack of acceleration issue, I was told that 04 or 05 CVT's were used to replace the 03. One reason was that major changes to the CVT in 04 that finally allowed some service to the CVT. The 03 CVT is/was a fully sealed unit, not serviceable at all by the dealer or a transmission shop, a result of Nissan being greedy until it bit them in the butt.


Have a good day.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
From my understanding, most were always replaced and not serviced, regardless of the year. Although mine is an 04, it was replaced for a completely new CVT. It was cheaper and quicker (labor wise) to replace them as a whole than service anything internally. I also heard that they never manufactured separate parts to rebuilt a complete CVT from scratch.
 
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