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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2010 Nissan Murano I recently bought. A rattling and noises coming from the rear end. Rear shocks are new and fine. Upon inspection we found the camber bolts to be loose. As this has been happening for a while, the mechanic I talked to said that the camber bolts/washer and nuts should be replaced but the hole the camber bolt goes through on the sub frame is now stretched and no longer the original size. It needs to be welded (metal added) and then grind to make the hole the original size. You can see in the attached photos the shiny wear marks that is occurring around the bolts. The problem I am having is this:
1) Nissan does not carry the adjustable camber bolt. This bolt is normally adjusted to set the rear wheel alignment. The mechanic I talked to at Nissan said an aftermarket Camber bolt is required as the factory the only carries the OEM camber bolt and that one is not adjustable. I called a few different aftermarket parts stores (Napa) and they carry the camber bolts for the front and not the rear. So is this bolt on the rear none adjustable and is there any camber bolt sold that is adjustable? If not I will just buy the OEM non-adjustable bolt direct from Nissan.

2. The welding is a problem as they want to weld a washer on. Is this proper and done right to do that or should the welding be done better than that? This holds the sub-frame.

Any feedback is much appreciated.
 

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It looks to me like you have substantial rust there, and will be looking to replace those suspension components in the not too distant future.

This isn't my specialty, but I have no problem with welding an appropriate size washer on to that frame part. Holding a bolt in the right place seems to be all you need to do. You'll be replacing the part itself in the next year or two.

I'm not surprised that Nissan doesn't sell a repair part. That's not what dealers do - they sell replacement parts for the entire assembly. Wallowed out holes are something that you don't take to a dealer, you take them to an indy shop that knows their business and their welding.
 

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The part that you posted pictures of is the rear lower control arm and that is for toe adjustment. The bolt that goes through the bushing that attaches to the rear subframe is a cam bolt though.

Welding a washer to the rear subframe sounds like something a suspension shop that does this kind of work would do. Below are pics of the bolt--it is straight. The cam effect is the result of the bolt being offset inside the washer (...there's another cam washer that's supposed to go on the end of the bolt on the opposite side where the nut goes.

To answer your other question, there are aftermarket camber bolts, but they typically require siamesed holes (i.e. what you apparently have now). What you do next really depends on whether or not you have confidence in the shop that diagnosed this and told you what they need to do.

As @Pilgrim said, your rear subframe is really crusty and subframe rot was a known problem on the 1st generation and there have been cases reported for the 2nd generation (...one fellow had the rear tire basically cave in and had to replace the whole subframe assembly). You may want to get the shop's opinion on the overall condition of the rear subframe (...if you trust them to be honest).

53856

53857
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Update:
I went back to Nissan and there was a mixup between front and rear camber bolts. New bolts were ordered for the rear.
I took it to another mechanic today and he says someone recently tried to do a rear wheel alignment. That is why the shiny mark above the bolt and was moved. He also used a pry bar and no movement.
He says the control arm and bushing is lose. Tomorrow he will heat up the rusted bolt and see if he can tighten it. Otherwise to cut it off says I will need a new control arm and bushing and the cost will go up.
This was missed on 2 salvage inspections and now 2 different opinions from licensed mechanics on what the problem is. Will update tomorrow as to the actual cause. Thank you all for your comments and feedback thus far. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Update
Mechanics tightened the bolt on the control arm and the noise in the rear end going over bumps/gravel road is better. Also mechanic says the shock mount needs replacing and will take 5 days to order a new one. Then will get a wheel alignment. Will share an update when all is rectified. I ordered new Camber bolts but not sure if I need them. They are $65 from Nissan.
 

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Glad it's looking up. Make plans now for more suspension work in the near future, given the rust situation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi Yes, We use a lot of salt on the roads in Canada in the winter. Washing the car frequently is important to avoid rust.
It turns out the shock mounts were the problem. The big top nut needed to tighten/torqued to 41 lbs and a vice was needed. I got new rear Camber bolts from Nissan ($65) but I think the mechanic says it is a lot of work to remove old ones and press in new ones and may not want to do that. Maybe the old bolts will work ok for now.
All in all issues are fixed now with the rattling noises in the rear end and I hope this forum helps someone else. Thank you for all your comments and help. Much appreciated.
 
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