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Hello All,
My 2007 Murano rear sub frame damaged due to rust and need replacement.

I figured out when the rear driver side tire was bending inward and took to the mechanic that i trust for the last 6 years. He examined and told that the sub frame has rusted and needs replacement. He said it is quite laborious and needs several parts replaced as few parts might get snubbed

Dealership has quoted $4800.

I would like to get help on what all parts need to be removed in order to replace the rear sub frame . I would like to order those parts in case i need to replace them as the parts locally are quite expensive. If not used as part of the repair i will return them.

Can i please get a list of all parts so i can place the order

Thank you in advance
 

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I'd recommend you work with your mechanic to determine which parts need to be replaced and which don't. You can surely save money by not having a dealership do this, but working with a competent independent shop.

This is not the kind of work that's familiar to a dealership. They tend to work more on newer cars and warranty work. I'd really prefer to work with a good indy on this project. The Muranos have been reported to have problems in rust-prone areas, so it's worth taking a bit of time and doing it right. Sounds like you narrowly avoid a major breakdown!
 
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My regular mechanic did not want to do it as it was too much labor,
Found another indy mechanic who agreed to do it for $850 that includes a $400 part

Lets see how it goes. I will update here if everything goes ok
 

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I bought my 2007 Murano a few months ago used, and when I drove it, it would Jump left to right when I hit holes, took to a Firestone for camber toe alignment, was told rear sub frame was rusted through on both sides, can't drive! I called whom I bought from, they towed it, and replaced the subframe with a used one, and had to replace two support bars and 4 bolts. I got it back, no cost to me, but it still jumps left to right, and now the ac compressor and alternator went out, I've owned it fur a few months, only got to drive it for a total of 15 days with all the issues. These muranos are crap!! I found out the ac compressor leaks water directly onto the rear subframe which is why so many have rust issues. I will not buy another, and haven't even fixed this one, I'd rather drive my 03 rusty Pontiac grand prix, at least old rusty is trusty!
 

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Sound like you didn't take the time to do a little research and have the car looked over by a trusted mechanic. Anyone who has nothing to hide will gladly agree to letting you do this. Anyone trying to rush you is trying to hide something. Buyer beware!

These are two things that MUST be done on any car 5 years or older before purchasing.

The research will give your mechanic a heads up on what to look for that might go wrong with the car you're looking at.

Have a good day.
 
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I bought my 2007 Murano a few months ago used, and when I drove it, it would Jump left to right when I hit holes, took to a Firestone for camber toe alignment, was told rear sub frame was rusted through on both sides, can't drive! I called whom I bought from, they towed it, and replaced the subframe with a used one, and had to replace two support bars and 4 bolts. I got it back, no cost to me, but it still jumps left to right, and now the ac compressor and alternator went out, I've owned it fur a few months, only got to drive it for a total of 15 days with all the issues. These muranos are crap!! I found out the ac compressor leaks water directly onto the rear subframe which is why so many have rust issues. I will not buy another, and haven't even fixed this one, I'd rather drive my 03 rusty Pontiac grand prix, at least old rusty is trusty!
I noticed mine jumps like that as well, it may be normal...not sure? I have 2 muranos, both do the same. I also have rusted kframe, but not broken. That is a $1800+ to $3000 job...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Finally, after a month Murano is back on the road. The total project cost is $2875

Subframe
Rear Lower control arms
Rear Upper Control Arms
Rear lower forward control arms
Sway Bar Links
Sway Bar Bushings
Rear Differential Oil
Rear wheel alignment


All the above have been replaced with new.
 

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Nice video!

It's frightening to think of how many 1st gen Muranos are speeding down the road with severely corroded front or rear suspension components.

I was one of them... I'm the victim of my '03 front suspension cross-member corroding away.

There really should be a recall for this defective metal/abnormal corrosion. Or at the very least, Nissan should be required to mail a warning to every owner to notify them to have their Muranos inspected for this potential danger ASAP.
 
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Finally, after a month Murano is back on the road. The total project cost is $2875

Subframe
Rear Lower control arms
Rear Upper Control Arms
Rear lower forward control arms
Sway Bar Links
Sway Bar Bushings
Rear Differential Oil
Rear wheel alignment


All the above have been replaced with new.

DO you know how much you paid for your rear frame? Im trying to find a used one for under $400 shipped.
 

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I have not heard about a lot of the front frames rusting through. Was your back frame fine?
Nope, no trouble with the rear for me.

This is the thread I posted on my front sub-frame:
 

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This is the thread I posted on my front sub-frame:
Wow! garage kept and still accelerated problem. Do you wash the underside of your car in the winter now to help prevent it happening again? Im planning on washing my car underneath but dont know if soap and water by hand is the best way to do it.
 

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Wow! garage kept and still accelerated problem. Do you wash the underside of your car in the winter now to help prevent it happening again? Im planning on washing my car underneath but dont know if soap and water by hand is the best way to do it.
I now believe that being in a somewhat warm garage that's above the freezing point may have accelerated the problem possibly...

No, I only spray water into the wheel wells and wherever else I can easily reach. I plan on getting under there in the spring and brushing off the sandy salty area and washing everything down. I will also inspect and treat any rusty areas with a rust treatment product and then paint.

This rust treatment product: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M0TLQ66/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

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Does anyone have any ideas on how the wash down the underside of our cars in the wintertime?

I don't want to go to an automated car wash...
 

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Does anyone have any ideas on how the wash down the underside of our cars in the wintertime?

I don't want to go to an automated car wash...
Really the only way to get the underbody done properly, is thru a carwash. Usually the second level up, about $12, will get you a underbody wash with a salt neutralizer. This is the key to keeping underbody rust at bay here in the NE, or anywhere there's any type of sodium (salt) compound put down on the road.

During the winter, when the temp is at least 35 degrees without rain/snow forecast for several day, I go thru a car wash a couple of blocks from the house. I get the $12 wash, getting the underbody cleaned at the same time. I've done this since the car washes came out with the salt neutralizer underbody wash.

You might be wondering why I wait until 35 degrees. Washing your car at or below freezing levels causes the water that has seeped into all the small cracks to expand, causing issues down the road. Water in the seams of head/tail light assemblies can expand, possibly opening the insides to moisture, same with water that makes it down into the seams of your doors. Just a few of the things that freezing water can damage while expanding going from liquid to a solid state.

Come spring, when I do my yearly spring underbody and wheel well cleaning, I've notice much less rust issues then in the past. In the past, I've always had large areas that needed to be derusted, primed and painted every spring from winter salt rust. The last three years, I've had much less work taking care of rust on the underbody of all my cars.

Have a good day.
 
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I now believe that being in a somewhat warm garage that's above the freezing point may have accelerated the problem possibly...

No, I only spray water into the wheel wells and wherever else I can easily reach. I plan on getting under there in the spring and brushing off the sandy salty area and washing everything down. I will also inspect and treat any rusty areas with a rust treatment product and then paint.

This rust treatment product: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M0TLQ66/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Being in heated garage is fine, as long as you kick off any excess buildup behind the wheels before pulling into the garage. Ideally, the temp should be above 50 degrees, with a drying time of about 24 hours. Under these conditions, the car is not retaining enough moisture for rust to build up quickly. You can use the edges of your rotors as a gage on how quickly rust is building up in your garage.

Personally, I will not use any chemical rust remover. If the rust is deep, you'll leave pits and weaken the metal. I use a scraper, wire brushes on a drill motor, and hand wire brushes to remove as much as possible without weakening the metal. I rinse everything down with denatured alcohol and use the following:


End with several light layers of color matching (Usually gloss black.) enamel spray paint for a finished look. Always looks factory fresh when completed.

Have a good day.
 

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I was thinking that a car wash with underbody wash may be my only option if I can't get under there myself.

It's a tough decision for me though, I don't like what the car may do to the paint on my Murano...
 

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I was thinking that a car wash with underbody wash may be my only option if I can't get under there myself.

It's a tough decision for me though, I don't like what the car may do to the paint on my Murano...
First, all car washes are not created equal. If you have several in your area, stop and chat with the guys on the line. The place I go to changes brushes and felt swishers weekly and only reuses each set 4 times after cleaning them. He has the most business of the 4 we have here in town. Never heard anything bad about the place.

The town I came from has a small hand car wash chain in the area. $22 bucks gets you a full hand car wash, full dry with inside windows, seats and floors cleaned. If I'm in the area I always stop for a wash and ask when are they opening one in my town. lol

When I first moved to the area, I went to one of the car washes without checking first, and upon starting thru, I could see the brushes and swishers were worn and missing pieces. Yup, got a small scratch right on the front arch above the wheel on the right front fender. Come to find out it's one of the worst car washes to go to in the area, but the several car dealers right on the block keep him in business. Go figure!

Your best bet is to be proactive and spend some time and money to put some solid protection over your paint first.


Follow instructions to the letter and you'll have some really good paint protection. You'll be surprised how long you'll be able to go before you start seeing dirt on your car. Too bad we couldn't get this for the underbody!

Have a good day.
 
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This thread got me thinking... I checked to see what other options might be available for washing the underbody, and found these items on Amazon. I still need to look at them more carefully, but it looks promising from what I can see so far!

 
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