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Discussion Starter #1
I've done several thread on this car over the years. Could kick myself for not replacing the rear motor mount when I had the exhaust and axle shaft out. If I could go back in time I might even try the home made polyurethane mount for the rear one due to the trouble it is to replace.
So let's get started. I replaced the lower drivers side 1st. Not too difficult. Some trouble getting the bolts to line up just right. Most likely due to the other mounts in very poor shape and not enough finesse with the jacks. But got it done relatively easy.
Next I went to the front motor mount that requires you to remove the radiator fans. Should have been a breeze with my air tools and long extensions. I just could not get 1 of the bolts to loosen. I even used a 24 inch breaker bar with an extra foot of pipe on it to try and turn it. I busted my nutts just getting it to turn about 3/4 of a turn. Got angry and decided to try and cut the nut off with my saws-all. After 30-40 minutes and dulling a new blade I tried again with the air gun and it just did get it loose. Probably due to heating it up trying to cut it off. P_20210328_122418_vHDR_On.jpg P_20210328_122453_vHDR_On.jpg P_20210328_122621_vHDR_On.jpg P_20210328_122523_vHDR_On.jpg P_20210327_140513_vHDR_On.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I also bought a few nut/bolt assortment for any other problems I may encounter removing the other mounts. and here is the drivers side lower munt that is the easiest to replace. As i mentioned above I did it 1st. P_20210328_125927_vHDR_On.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I started on the rear mount yesterday, but got frustrated and quit. I've got to go get some penetrating spray to see it I can remove enough parts to gain access to the rear mount. I've watched some u-tubes of guys doing it without removing very much. The videos never show the hard part so it looks easy on film.
I can get a wrench on each nut but no leverage. I'm gonna just dissemble everything in the way of my air gun. Or that's the plan for now. I like this Murano, but I don't think I've owed another vehicle that's so hard to work on.

(whoever placed the alternator where it is should be shot!) ....but I digress.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Gonna try to remove the rear cat. If it comes out the mount should be easy-peasy. The pb blaster has soaked the bolts on the cat and cat shield for several hrs. so what could go wrong?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Got the rear mount off/out...was gonna give some advice, but all i can say is take loose whatever you can to get a better access to the nuts and bolts. If they weren't torqued P_20210328_191504.jpg to 299lbs it would be much easier.
P_20210328_203411.jpg P_20210328_200533.jpg P_20210328_200255.jpg P_20210328_191529.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
If I could have removed the cat it would have been easier. Couldn't budge the bolts with a small hand wrench. Need access from top. like with the intake and exhaust manifold off.
If you wanted to do all that for some kind of overdue maintenance it may have been easier, but probably taken longer.

The motor mount bolt that goes thru the center of the rubber is a real pain to remove. The picture of it just clearing the cat, at the top where it gets small before bolting to the exhaust manifold looks like it just clears. It doesn't. Almost grabbed the saws all to cut it. Probably should have. I jacked up the motor, let it down, tried using a long bar to get behind the head of the bolt and hammer it out. The only reason I think I got it out without the saw was due to excessive wear to the rubber in the mount..

And I've had this exhaust off down to everything. Put it back together with anti seize lube. May be the only reason I was easily able to drop it. - but not the cat. not from below. No leverage with a small hand wrench. g'night all.

Maybe tomorrow I'll try to install the rear bich...uh mount.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
poly mount2.jpg
They are several hardness available with A-70 seeming to be harder than tire rubber but some give. You can order the flexible urethane casting resin in different hard or softness.
Some use their old mount/bushing all cleaned up to pour in the polyurethane instead of purchasing a new one. Others fill in the open space of a new one for a stronger, hopefully longer lasting bushing/mount.

Just another idea from some guys on the web.....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Gonna start by removing the passenger side axle. It's in the way from installing the rear mount. I was able to remove it with the axel in, but need more room to install the new mount.
P_20210329_131005.jpg
Taking out the axle
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
What a pain. I am really slow at mechanic work. Got the rear motor mount installed. Reattached the exhaust, reinstalled the axle.
Still got to install the top passenger side mount. They have all been in very bad shape. I'll give a few details later today or this evening. I've gotta go to a funeral in a few minutes.
----edit---- Just thought I'd tell anyone removing the passenger side axle on a FWD murano, mine is 2005 - that you take out the bolts from the hanger bearing and just ease it out. There is no prying. (at least not mine) No lock ring on the axle as it enters the transmission. Slides right out and all your transmission fluid pours out with it. I forgot to place a catch basin under mine so had to guess as to how much I needed to add back. (also may never be able to lay on my nice drop rug again, it's soaked) - here is the picture of the axle removed...
P_20210329_175427.jpg
 

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If memory serves, the top passenger side mount is a piece of cake if the engine is cold. Remove the battery and holder, and it's easy to reach.
 
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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Remove the battery and holder, and it's easy to reach.
My battery is on the drivers side. It is a piece of cake compared to the other three. Overflow jug and splash guard is about all i think, and I've already got that side tore down. Just got home. Drinking coffee trying to decide if tomorrow sounds better than this evening. This is the top view of the passenger side motor mount.
P_20210329_131259.jpg P_20210330_210053.jpg P_20210330_210133.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
P_20210329_175519.jpg P_20210329_175427.jpg P_20210329_131211.jpg P_20210329_131150.jpg
The 1st picture is the rear mount installed. I has to use a grade 8 bolt with the end ground down to a point similar to the original bolts. It was the last I put in and I jacked up the motor then quickly let it down to try and "seat" the motor so the last hole would line up enough for me to use a couple of long extensions and hammer it through from the drivers side wheel well. Just make sure it you grind the end of the bolt you don't mess up the threads.
There is just no easy way to get that rear mount installed without removing anything that's in your way.
The 1st picture is looking up from underneath on the side of the driver. You can see the original bolt and nut, and the grade 8 I hammered thru.
The last two pictures are showing why I decided to remove the axle. It's just too hard to work around. I was able to get the mount out with the axle in place but just couldn't reinstall the new one with it in my way.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I never got started and the rain came, it's supposed to rain next day at least per the weatherman. May have to finish this weekend. ...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It's been driving good. I need to figure out where a front end rattle is coming from when I hit a slight bump. I't sounds kind of like a control arm bushing. I may take it to a good front end shop that does great work and is very repudible. They've been in business for over 30 years in the same location.
I think they would diagnose the rattle for next to nothing. I was hoping replacing the motor mounts would eliminate it. The top mount on the passenger side I did last looked in brand new condition. It had been replaced before. Probably dealership work from the previous owner.
 

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It's been driving good. I need to figure out where a front end rattle is coming from when I hit a slight bump. I't sounds kind of like a control arm bushing.
If you have a grease gun and your sway bar links are original (aftermarket ones are usually sealed), give them a shot of grease upper and lower. That quiets the front end completely on my MO. When the rain water hits the blown-out seals (damaged by a mechanic who inspected my car three years ago) I usually end up having to re-grease them again a few days later. Just hitting the slightest crack in the road would make it sound like my front end was going to fall apart with clunks and snaps. When greased, not a sound.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
sway bar links
If you have a grease gun and your sway bar links are original (aftermarket ones are usually sealed), give them a shot of grease upper and lower. That quiets the front end completey on my MO. When the rain water hits the blown-out seals (damaged by a mechanic who inspected my car three years ago) I usually end up having to re-grease them again a few days later. Just hitting the slightest crack in the road would make it sound like my front end was going to fall apart with clunks and snaps. When greased, not a sound.
Great advice. I'm gonna check my sway bar links tomorrow. It does sound like that could very well be the issue. I want to go out there right now but I'll wait on daylight.
 

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FYI, a few years ago I went for the annual inspection, and an old-timer did the inspection while I was talking with some of the other mechanics. When he was done, the old-timer said he had greased those links because they were dry. I didn't really think anything of it. I got my sticker and left. No more than 20 minutes later, every bump in the road made MO have loud noises from the front. Long to short, a few weeks later, I'd had enough and looked into the problem and when I grabbed a link with one hand I could make it thud easily. I greased them up and the problem was solved. I did notice the seals appeared to be blown out. I don't know if that old-timer injected the wrong grease/chemical that somehow dissolved mine, or if he injected too much, causing the seals to blow. What I couldn't understand was how the noise started so quickly after he greased them. It makes me wonder if its possible he accidentally injected air into each fitting and it blew out the grease. These links are the easiest things to replace, but because I was planning to donate MO... You know the rest... If the seals are blown, I think it's worth spending $30 and 30 minutes to replace them.
 
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