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Discussion Starter #1
Hello:

I read the post on Trans RPM Ranges / Throttle Response. Specifically the discussion about the ECU, the "open loop" mode, and finally, the lock up torque converter. All of theses things may be related to a problem that I am experiencing with my 2006 MO.

Conditions:
Vehicle cooled down (Below Freezing)
Occurs periodically and usually no more than 1-2 minutes from start.

When put in drive the vehicle accelerates at higher than normal engine speeds.

As the throttle is advanced (~20-30%) the engine speed accelerates to around 4000rpm and it kind of feels like the transmission might be slipping slightly or at least not producing the amount of acceleration for the relatively high rpm (this triggers the error codes P1778 & P1715 and SES light) then I back off the throttle. While the vehicle is crusing at 60-80 km/hr, the engine speed remains above 3000rpm. Once things start to warm up, everything begins to "shift" normally. (ie. where previously the engine speed would be at 3000-4000 rpm, now I would see 1500-2500 rpm and significantly smoother acceleration.
If I am very gentle on the throttle until the engine warms, no error code will be triggered. As well, another strange thing I noticed, when an error code is triggered, if I attempt to set cruise control the set light flashes as soon as the cruise is turned on, consequently, the cruise is disable for the remainder of the drive. However, the cruise control error corrects itself after the next start.

Nissan just replaced my CVT last week on warranty as a result of these codes and I am still getting the same problems. Now I am wondering if it may be the ECU or something related to the lock up torque converter? Keep in mind, when my Mo warms up, it runs perfectly..and always did...even with the previous CVT.

Any Ideas...I could sure use the advise..Thanks.
 

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Sounds to me like you have a Transmission Control Module (TCM) issue. The codes are as follows:

P1778 -- STEP MOTOR FNC
P1715 -- IN PULLY SPEED

The Service Manual says that the technician is supposed to confirm the code is valid by checking out the actual signals coming from the CVT. If the CVT is reading correctly but the TCM is not then it's time to replace the TCM. Sounds to me like your CVT has been working correctly all this time and the TCM should have been replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Warhammer. It took a while for the part, but Nissan installed the new TCM. I've run it several times in ideal conditions to duplicate the past events that produced the error codes and I haven't had a single event...it's running awesome now. Thanks again.
 

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That is why the dealer/Nissan has to charge so much. Replacing a $$$$ CVT when a $ TCM would have fixed the problem.....
If only they knew what they were doing!
 

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Same problem, need some advise

So I seem to be having same issue as this original post. Since last winter when the vehicle was cold (04 Murano, AWD) I would be rev. higher then normal RPM's with no real acceleration for the first few block, but once I got thing going it was smooth sailing. No real concerns until the first code was found 1778 (mil light was off, found code when I was correcting a vias issue).

Now the problem has gotten worse. Warm or Cold at highway speeds it seems like the transmission can't settle at constant rpm. It revs up from 1800-3200, then drops back down and repeats.

After resetting the codes, I only get the 1778 until I accelerate hard while it's cold, then i get a 1715, and the MIL stays on.

While researching this over the last few months I've tried some small repairs to correct the issues,
-Changed CVT fluid
-Installed new mass airflow sensor (not oem)
-New (used) TCM

And no luck, except for 2 days while I had the new TCM installed she drove like it was new. Then we had a cold morning and bang, back to the problems. Even today which was very warm, it's still acting up.

So my question is, what now....... Been to the most useless Nissan dealer out there, and their $6000.00 dollar answer was "need a new transmission, and yours is out of warranty by 2000 k's (yea, I know......)

I just picked up a new crank sensor, s I read before that this could be the problem. Same post also stated not to do any relearn procedures until it's installed as I may cook the TCM (read that after I did the relearn procedures).

Any advise, ideas or tips are greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
 

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Sorry to bring that old thread up again, people...

But I have the same sympthoms like described above, have searched all over the Internet about error p1715, but nothing gaves me explanation what is the reason for it.

I have 06 Nissan Murano, European version.
I have replaced the TCM with used, same type one, but nothning changed.
Transmission seems like stucks on 1st gear (yeah, there are no gears, i know) when cold, the RPM goes up to 4000, and the car barely moves..After couple of minutes, and after the CVT fluid warms up, the transmission works like champ. When it is at normal working temperature, there is no any isssues with performance at all...
I will try to remove valve body tommorow, to see that INPUT SPEED Sensor. Is it fauty one?
Someone solved that problem, and wants to share experience with it?

Thanks people, and sorry for bumping that old thread again...
 

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Hi,
please tell me distant experience with Murano because I have exactly the same problem. My Murano has the same code (P1715). Did you perhaps off valve body and replace sensor input?
 

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Sounds to me like you have a Transmission Control Module (TCM) issue. The codes are as follows:

P1778 -- STEP MOTOR FNC
P1715 -- IN PULLY SPEED

The Service Manual says that the technician is supposed to confirm the code is valid by checking out the actual signals coming from the CVT. If the CVT is reading correctly but the TCM is not then it's time to replace the TCM. Sounds to me like your CVT has been working correctly all this time and the TCM should have been replaced.
 

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Hi. Looking for advice.
I have a 2006 Murano with 325,000 km
Took it in for front brakes, local mechanic called to say it needed a muffler as it was ready to fall off. He replaced with an aftermarket muffler.
Upon pick up of murano, mechanic mentioned he smelled fumes in car but that it’s fixed now. Oddly we have never smelled fumes before or after the muffler replacement.

Driving away from the mechanic garage, the check engine light came on, AWD light on, ABS light on.
got codes read P1778 & P1715.
Murano drives at high rpm (4000+ rpm) to maintain highway speeds. The high rpm means it’s running louder than normal and seems like it’s not shifting.

replaced the battery and did a cvt fluid drain and fill per Nissan recommendations. No improvement.
Nissan hooked it up and drove it with the computer diagnostics running and say transmission shows all components working fine. BUT still running at high rpms.
Help!! Any advice?
 

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What did Nissan say regarding the high 4000 RPMs at highway speed? It should be only a couple of thousand RPMs at most at 65 MPH or so.

If Nissan disregarded the high RPMs when monitoring it while driving at highway speeds, I'd take it to another maybe more knowledgeable Nissan dealership...

You mentioned this all started after the muffler was replaced? Have you talked to that mechanic?

Did you resolve the trouble lights that came on after the muffler replacement?

Did Nissan clear those CVT TCM error codes? If so, have the codes returned after driving it?
 

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Hi. Looking for advice.
I have a 2006 Murano with 325,000 km
Took it in for front brakes, local mechanic called to say it needed a muffler as it was ready to fall off. He replaced with an aftermarket muffler.
Upon pick up of murano, mechanic mentioned he smelled fumes in car but that it’s fixed now. Oddly we have never smelled fumes before or after the muffler replacement.

Driving away from the mechanic garage, the check engine light came on, AWD light on, ABS light on.
got codes read P1778 & P1715.
Murano drives at high rpm (4000+ rpm) to maintain highway speeds. The high rpm means it’s running louder than normal and seems like it’s not shifting.

replaced the battery and did a cvt fluid drain and fill per Nissan recommendations. No improvement.
Nissan hooked it up and drove it with the computer diagnostics running and say transmission shows all components working fine. BUT still running at high rpms.
Help!! Any advice?
Aside from the questions that MuranoSL2003 has--you've never had a problem with the high RPMs at highway speed until right after the muffler was replaced, correct? If so, that's a mighty coincidence and you should have driven right back to the garage as soon as all those lights came on.

Also, do you know if the new muffler was welded on or bolted on?
 

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Hi.
Nissan tells me the car will drive fine after they test drove it. They seem to disregard the high over 4000 rpms on the highway which I don’t understand.
Both times I drove away from the dealership and the check engine light comes on! Same codes again...P1778 & P1715.

The mechanic that did the muffler scanned codes but isn’t familiar with them he says. I got no help from him.

codes have been cleared 3 times and always return.
Nissan says replace the transmission which I read in these posts is a common response.
Also read on here about replacing O2 sensors, TCM. Watched a video on replacing the step motor.
Trying to figure out what to try...

What did Nissan say regarding the high 4000 RPMs at highway speed? It should be only a couple of thousand RPMs at most at 65 MPH or so.

If Nissan disregarded the high RPMs when monitoring it while driving at highway speeds, I'd take it to another maybe more knowledgeable Nissan dealership...

You mentioned this all started after the muffler was replaced? Have you talked to that mechanic?

Did you resolve the trouble lights that came on after the muffler replacement?

Did Nissan clear those CVT TCM error codes? If so, have the codes returned after driving it?
 

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Long story, so if interested check out my "I'm baaaack" post from the other day,

I have a 2003 AWD SE with a used tranny from a 2006 MO that now has nearly 260,000 miles on it. About 75,000 miles ago, I got the P1778 code, along with a couple of "critical CVT failure" codes, and I decided to overfill my CVT with more tranny fluid. In my case, I used Castrol Transmax Dexron VI, which isn't what you're supposed to use per current specs. Since that time of getting those codes, my vehicle slowly started to need more warm-up time from a cold start if sitting for more than a few hours. In Winter temps, I have to let it warm up for about five minutes, and I have to nurse it slowly along at around 2000RPMs, until the "gear" change happens around 23MPH. If I just try to step on the gas normally when it's not warmed up, the RPMs rev to 3000 and beyond, but MO won't go any faster. Once I've driven above 40MPH for about five miles, the car is good anywhere and up anything, until turned off for the night or for a few hours in temps below 60.

Something else I noticed: With my situation, if I keep the RPMs above 3100 for more than four seconds, the "set" light for my cruise control starts to blink and I can't use cruise until I park, turn off the car, and do a gear-shift, brake pedal ritual and then restart the car, and all is good...as long as I stay under 3000RPMs. Also, if I "floor it" above 3000RPMs (even when already warmed up) my engine starts to choke and sputter (probably due to the age of the catalytic convertors), and I have to pull over, turn off the car, then simply turn it back on again and she's good to go. If I cause the engine to choke/sputter above 3000RPMs, and then try to back off and drive naturally at a slower speed at lower RPMs, I can't... She seems to get "stuck" in a strange mode that won't allow a smooth ride at lower speeds. Again, I pull over, turn off, turn on, and I'm good to go. Obviously, I've put my car through many road tests to see what I can get away with, and the bottom line is, I just don't drive too aggressively or try to pass in "overdrive" mode. I can make a half-gas-pedal normal pass just fine...I just need to keep the RPMs below 3000 and never use Ds at high speeds.

This has been going on for about a few years, and has not gotten any worst, but it hasn't improved. But...it's not a problem for me and I drive for hours non-stop through mountainous regions and along 70MPH highways. No problem driving up hills, provided the car is already warmed up and has successfully "switched gears" above 20MPH, and then above 40MPH. Once warmed up, MO usually cruises at most speeds at RPMs of 1500-1800, and only hits 2000-2500 if going up a long hill. If going up a steep hill, I turn off cruise control and feather the pedal myself, giving short bursts to 3000RPMs and then back down to 2500, then back to 3000, etc, until finally over the hill. Not sure what's really the cause of the problem, but it hasn't prevented me from enjoying the ride. It's just a quirk that I've gotten used to.

EDIT: Just for clarity, I only get that P1778 code twice a year. If I go above 3000RPMs and the engine chokes, it doesn't throw a code. So, your situation, while seeming very similar to mine, might be slightly different. The only significant code I've gotten in the last two years was the P0420/P0430 that relates to the CATs, and the Po430 code usually only appears about twice a year and never returns until a few months after I stop using the lacquer thinner trick.
 

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Replying to MuranoSL2003’s questions:
Nissan keeps saying it’s driveable and found no issue when they drove it with the computer hooked up in car. The transmission checks out perfect.
BUT...it’s still got returning codes after clearing P1778 & P1715. It still runs high rpms over 4000 on the hiway.
The muffler mechanic says he didn’t touch anything that would affect the drive ability of the car.
I’ve been reading and found someone who replaced the oxygen sensors in their Murano and it fixed both the codes I’m getting. Could the muffler replacement have wrecked my oxygen sensors???? The muffler mechanic said he smelled fumes in the cabin when he turned it on but I’ve never had fumes before or after muffler replacement. Curious what the fumes could have been indicating.
Any ideas?
 

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Those CVT codes that keep returning, along the engine running at 4000 RPMs at highway speeds, to me indicate a CVT problem...

Have you checked with another dealer in your area?
 

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Replying to MuranoSL2003’s questions:
Nissan keeps saying it’s driveable and found no issue when they drove it with the computer hooked up in car. The transmission checks out perfect.
BUT...it’s still got returning codes after clearing P1778 & P1715. It still runs high rpms over 4000 on the hiway.
The muffler mechanic says he didn’t touch anything that would affect the drive ability of the car.
I’ve been reading and found someone who replaced the oxygen sensors in their Murano and it fixed both the codes I’m getting. Could the muffler replacement have wrecked my oxygen sensors???? The muffler mechanic said he smelled fumes in the cabin when he turned it on but I’ve never had fumes before or after muffler replacement. Curious what the fumes could have been indicating.
Any ideas?
I'd say that your mechanic is mistaken. Putting on the wrong muffler, hitting the existing pipes during removal (in order to free old parts) that may dislodge crap that could clog the screens of your O2 sensors and CAT can definitely have an impact on how your car drives. It's possible he pinched/scratched a wire to a sensor, causing a bad signal. If the sensors aren't accurately relaying proper emissions levels to your vehicle's other systems, it can certainly make MO ride and run rough. Are you getting those codes immediately after clearing them (within seconds/minutes), or does it take days or certain driving conditions in order for them to return?

BTW, MO did throw a code for a heated O2 sensor about 15 months ago, so I replaced that O2 sensor. It's the one on the passenger-front around the oil pan area. Since my MO doesn't have any rust, that sensor came off in less than a minute using a sensor-removing socket (it's notched for the connected wiring), along with a 3/8-drive ratchet with a U-joint adapter on it. It was very tight to get to, but once the swivel locked into the socket, it took virtually no effort to remove the old one and install the new one. In addition, around that time, my ABS light went on, but my $19 Autolink reader was not good enough to tell me anything. I went to four different auto parts stores, but their readers either couldn't tell me anything, or the info was vague... I finally went to Advanced Auto Parts and their reader was able to pinpoint the driver's front speed sensor was bad. So, I ordered it off of Amazon, installed it, and then driving in my driveway cleared the ABS light. Not sure that helps you, but we appear to have had some similar things happen. My car has all of the CA emissions stuff.
 

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Cryogenix1:
Thanks so much for the reply!!
Where did you buy your O2 sensor at? How many are there on an 06 Murano? And is there a way to test them?? Or do I need to replace them all?

Also would any mechanic know how to replace the O2 sensors?? I’m not going back to the guy who put the muffler on. Not happy with him or how he has walked away after making my car undriveable. My car is parked in my yard. I live in the country so nearest mechanic shop is 45 min which means I need to have it towed or trailered to be worked on. Is there any way you have a video on what to look for/how to replace the 02 sensors? Is it something I can do at home if I jack my car up????

My P1778 & P1715 codes appear minutes after being cleared. They have been cleared a few times and always return. The car was driving perfect when it went in for the muffler so I think I’m on the right track that it has to be related to this work done. If you were me, would you replace all O2 sensors?

I did have the ABS light on too. Nissan checked the speed sensors and said they are fine.
 

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Cryogenix1:
Thanks so much for the reply!!
Where did you buy your O2 sensor at? How many are there on an 06 Murano? And is there a way to test them?? Or do I need to replace them all?

Also would any mechanic know how to replace the O2 sensors?? I’m not going back to the guy who put the muffler on. Not happy with him or how he has walked away after making my car undriveable. My car is parked in my yard. I live in the country so nearest mechanic shop is 45 min which means I need to have it towed or trailered to be worked on. Is there any way you have a video on what to look for/how to replace the 02 sensors? Is it something I can do at home if I jack my car up????

My P1778 & P1715 codes appear minutes after being cleared. They have been cleared a few times and always return. The car was driving perfect when it went in for the muffler so I think I’m on the right track that it has to be related to this work done. If you were me, would you replace all O2 sensors?

I did have the ABS light on too. Nissan checked the speed sensors and said they are fine.
New O2 sensors are not going to fix a transmission problem. Take it to another dealership (or a transmission shop known for repairing CVTs). Insist that a tech drive with you while you recreate the problem. Go on a highway and show them that the car revs at 4k RPM at normal highway speeds (which is not normal).
 

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Cryogenix1:
Thanks so much for the reply!!
Where did you buy your O2 sensor at? How many are there on an 06 Murano? And is there a way to test them?? Or do I need to replace them all?

Also would any mechanic know how to replace the O2 sensors?? I’m not going back to the guy who put the muffler on. Not happy with him or how he has walked away after making my car undriveable. My car is parked in my yard. I live in the country so nearest mechanic shop is 45 min which means I need to have it towed or trailered to be worked on. Is there any way you have a video on what to look for/how to replace the 02 sensors? Is it something I can do at home if I jack my car up????

My P1778 & P1715 codes appear minutes after being cleared. They have been cleared a few times and always return. The car was driving perfect when it went in for the muffler so I think I’m on the right track that it has to be related to this work done. If you were me, would you replace all O2 sensors?

I did have the ABS light on too. Nissan checked the speed sensors and said they are fine.
Seabrook, if your MO has a lot of undercarriage rust and the sensors are original, you miight have a hard time doing it yourself. And, if one breaks off, you run the risk of not being able to drive 45 minutes away to your mechanic to fix it. However, I agree with Coffee, in that I don't think replacing your O2 sensors will fix anything. If those sensors were clogged or had cut, chaffed wires, you should be seeing a code to reflect a problem related to that. BTW, I checked my records and found that I got my speed sensors through Amazon, and the heated O2 sensor through O'Reilly's Auto. The four other places either didn't stock it, or stocked one where you had to use a universal connector and cut your sensor leads and splice them together to work. No way I would do that with an O2 sensor...they are too finicky. My MO has five O2 sensors, and it seems that yours may have four. You can Google it or search this forum and you'll probably be able to know for sure.

Here's a link... 2003-2007 Nissan Murano Air/Fuel Ratio and O2 Sensor Location | Nissanhelp.com

In any case, have you tried something very simple, such as disconnecting the positive and negative battery leads at the same time for a few minutes, then reconnecting everything? You'd be surprised how well that has worked over the years to "reset" electronics glitches in my MO and other cars.

When I was having CAT problems, when I had a bad ignition coil or fouled spark plug, and when my O2 sensors started throwing codes, I found that I could not drive at low RPMs, and so I had to keep MO in Ds mode to keep the RPM's up until I was able tp get parts to fix the problem. Also, I found that I could no longer depress the gas pedal too far or else "something" would choke/sputter and my car would shake. Only staying in Ds mode, and feathering the pedal and backing off a little allowed me to drive here and there while I road tested and solved all of my issues. And I'm not saying drive fast in Ds mode...I was able to drive around 45MPH no problem for a few days (I did use a lot more gas...) until the necessary parts arrived.
 
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