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so bought my 2006 murano s two weeks ago, has 107k on it, it has been having an issue for close to a week, it drives fine for about 4 miles then when I go to accelerate or climb a hill it starts shaking, jerking, shuddering, not sure how to explain it but its not good, took it and got codes ran, it showed p0746 and p01701.... i checked the transmission fluid and it definitely needed to be changed and I read that could bring the p0746 code up.... could it be the transmission fluid or am I looking at something more serious? Had I known how awful CVT was I never would have bought it. I am changing the transmission fluid asap either way but wanted to see if anyone had any insight? I'm so worried that I just bought a lemon
 

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For your P01701 code, check your air intake duct work after the air filter for cracks, it's a common problem. Check carefully inside the folds of the air intake duct.

Hopefully this will be your fix, along with doing a simple drain/fill for your CVT.
 
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MuranoSL2003 got it on the money for the air duct likely having a tear. A couple miles down the road is enough to heat up the air duct, making any tear leak more air into the system.

For the CVT flush, don't do a power flush. For a complete flush procedure (With pictures.), Assad just posted his CVT cleaning and full CVT fluid flush. You can print it out and bring it with you if you have to go to a tranny shop for the flush. A quick post search will direct you to it.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Have a good day.
 
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so bought my 2006 murano s two weeks ago, has 107k on it, it has been having an issue for close to a week, it drives fine for about 4 miles then when I go to accelerate or climb a hill it starts shaking, jerking, shuddering, not sure how to explain it but its not good, took it and got codes ran, it showed p0746 and p01701.... i checked the transmission fluid and it definitely needed to be changed and I read that could bring the p0746 code up.... could it be the transmission fluid or am I looking at something more serious? Had I known how awful CVT was I never would have bought it. I am changing the transmission fluid asap either way but wanted to see if anyone had any insight? I'm so worried that I just bought a lemon
P1701 Transmission Control Module (Power Supply)
P0746 Pressure Control Solenoid A

Good advice in the previous posts. I would also have the battery and charging system inspected to make sure they're working properly. If there's an electrical problem that's affecting the Transmission Control Module then the transmission won't operate correctly.
 

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@AmandaP, you mentioned code P01701 (incorrect format for an OBD2 code...), which when I Googled it came up with code P0171 (system too lean, bank 1), which is why I mentioned the air intake given the symptoms you mentioned.

Can you double check if the code was P0171 or code P1701?

It sounds like @I need coffee most likely got it correct that it's another CVT code, P1701.

It's a good idea to check the air intake duct regardless, your Murano is well past the age when tears can occur...
 
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@AmandaP, you mentioned code P01701 (incorrect format for an OBD2 code...), which when I Googled it came up with code P0171 (system too lean, bank 1), which is why I mentioned the air intake given the symptoms you mentioned.

Can you double check if the code was P0171 or code P1701?

It sounds like @I need coffee most likely got it correct that it's another CVT code, P1701.

It's a good idea to check the air intake duct regardless, your Murano is well past the age when tears can occur...
 

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It was p1701 sorry, mistyped... and thank you for the advice, I'm gonna get the transmission fluid changed and definitely look into your suggestion, I'll post the outcome
 

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For your P01701 code, check your air intake duct work after the air filter for cracks, it's a common problem. Check carefully inside the folds of the air intake duct.

Hopefully this will be your fix, along with doing a simple drain/fill for your CVT.
 

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ok thank you for the suggestion, I had been doing alot of reading and YouTube videos and I hadn't seen anything about air intake duct work being the culprit, you have given me another lead to follow :)
 

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So update.... I drove it home from work today and after about 2 miles its shaking constantly, any time I have to hit the gas, the service engine light is blinking almost the whole time (the issue has not been this pronounced before) i was worried that i wouldn't be able to get it home... I guess I will have to park it for now
 

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MuranoSL2003 got it on the money for the air duct likely having a tear. A couple miles down the road is enough to heat up the air duct, making any tear leak more air into the system.

For the CVT flush, don't do a power flush. For a complete flush procedure (With pictures.), Assad just posted his CVT cleaning and full CVT fluid flush. You can print it out and bring it with you if you have to go to a tranny shop for the flush. A quick post search will direct you to it.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Have a good day.
 

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About five years ago, I had violent shaking, shuddering and the blinking SES light whenever I'd accelerate too hard (such as going up a hill), and for me it was a combination of clogged CATalytic converters (that initially never produced any error codes, such as P0420 and P0430...they came later), fouled sparks plugs and two ignition coils that were going bad and producing misfires (again, inititally I had no error codes). And, sadly, the start of a failing CVT. I drove another year with that transmission after reducing my CAT problems and changing out all six spark plugs and ignition coil packs.

While trying to improve things, I noticed the car would drive better in Ds mode, provided I didn't push down on the pedal more than halfway. I'd start off in D, start up the hill, then drop it into Ds mode (which increases the RPMs), and I'd feather the gas pedal a little until over the hill, then I'd drop it back into D. After about 10 months, I could hear a piece of metal clanging around in the transmission, but I kept driving while I located a used CVT. Found one, and I've put about 165,000 miles on it.

While I have gotten the blinking SES light whenever I kept the RPMs at or over 3000 for more than four seconds (and the car would choke, sputter and shake) and then I'd have to pull over and stop, restart, etc...I don't get that problem anymore because I've adjusted the way I drive. Simply put, keep the RPMs below 3000 while going up a hill. You should be able to make it up most hills with 2800 RPMs, unless you're trying to go up it too aggressively. You can go above 3000 RPMs very quickly for a burst, then back off the pedal to bring them down to 2500 or so, etc.

You may not have my exact problems, but they sound very, very similar. Not sure if doing the D-to-Ds mode thing is what made the tranny go bad, but I haven't used anything but D mode since, and I'm at 280,900 miles now.

EDIT: BTW, in my case, the air duct intake hoses are intact and crack-free, and are not the cause of my acceleration problems when I go over 3000 RPMs for too long. However, today, as coincidence would have it, I went to 3500 RPMs for about five seconds, and MO acted just fine and zipped up a hill without any problems or blinking lights. In fact, I just posted abour that earlier today. Point being, you may have cracks and tears in your hose/boot that's causing your particular issue, since it's a common occurrence.
 

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Can you explain to me why you think its a problem with the air duct? Not saying your wrong, I just want to understand. A tear in the air duct could cause the car the jerk, shake and cause the SES light to blink? Just to give you a clear picture of what its doing, I drove it home today and it was shaking pretty violently, SES light blinking and when I made it home there was almost a burning smell coming from the engine so I lifted the hood and there was steam coming off the engine (really hot maybe?) Do you still think it could be the air duct? I know next to nothing about cars so any advice is much appreciated
 

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Can you explain to me why you think its a problem with the air duct? Not saying your wrong, I just want to understand. A tear in the air duct could cause the car the jerk, shake and cause the SES light to blink? Just to give you a clear picture of what its doing, I drove it home today and it was shaking pretty violently, SES light blinking and when I made it home there was almost a burning smell coming from the engine so I lifted the hood and there was steam coming off the engine (really hot maybe?) Do you still think it could be the air duct? I know next to nothing about cars so any advice is much appreciated
With tears/holes in the boot/hose, you're sucking in too much (or not enough) air into the system and altering the delicate balance of air-fuel mixture needed for an engine to run smoothly. Also, if you have tears in your intake boot/hose, you're allowing unfiltered, dirty air to enter your system, which can affect combustion and potentially cause certain cylinders to fire poorly, making the engine (and thus the car) shake violently because everything's out of whack. You could also have a vacuum leak somewhere, or a hose that has come detached.

Sometimes at lower speeds problems aren't as pronounced. As you demand more of the engine, most problems typically amplify themselves.

BTW, if you just bought this car, I would take it back and demand the person fix it, or give you back your money. Most states have a Lemon Law to protect buyers from being sold a junk car. You might want to look into that. This shouldn't be your headache to diagnose and correct.
 

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Can you explain to me why you think its a problem with the air duct? Not saying your wrong, I just want to understand. A tear in the air duct could cause the car the jerk, shake and cause the SES light to blink? Just to give you a clear picture of what its doing, I drove it home today and it was shaking pretty violently, SES light blinking and when I made it home there was almost a burning smell coming from the engine so I lifted the hood and there was steam coming off the engine (really hot maybe?) Do you still think it could be the air duct? I know next to nothing about cars so any advice is much appreciated
Usually, a blinking MIL signifies a constant misfire event in one or more cylinders. Was the car shaking while it wasn't moving (e.g. sitting at a traffic light or in Park)? If you saw steam when you opened the hood, the engine was probably overheating (did you notice the temperature gauge rise?).

Don't drive the car anymore unless you have to. I agree with Cryogenix1--you got sold a junk car and whoever you bought it from should help you resolve this problem (or take the car back).
 

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so bought my 2006 murano s two weeks ago, has 107k on it, it has been having an issue for close to a week, it drives fine for about 4 miles then when I go to accelerate or climb a hill it starts shaking, jerking, shuddering, not sure how to explain it but its not good, took it and got codes ran, it showed p0746 and p01701.... i checked the transmission fluid and it definitely needed to be changed and I read that could bring the p0746 code up.... could it be the transmission fluid or am I looking at something more serious? Had I known how awful CVT was I never would have bought it. I am changing the transmission fluid asap either way but wanted to see if anyone had any insight? I'm so worried that I just bought a lemon
Air intake and cvt fluid change Cvt almost indestructible
 

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If you have a blinking CEL, then you most likely have a misfire. I had hesitation and jumping between 1,500-2,000 rpms for over a year, figured the trans was on its way out and just kept driving it. Finally popped a CEL for a misfire, changed out that coil and it ran like new, trans was fine! Original coils lasted 250K until 1 failed, cant complain too much. Replaced all the coils and plugs and it ran perfect after that.

Its been feeling sluggish lately. Pulled all the coils and found oil in 5 out of 6 spark plug tubes. Replacing all the tube seals and valve cover gaskets now, will clean or replace the spark plug boots and replace the plugs as well.

You may have a weak or dying coil. It should have triggered a code for that cylinder. First thing I'd do is remove that coil and move it to another cylinder. If the misfire code moves, then its a bad coil. If the misfire stays, then its a bad spark plug or possibly bad cylinder/valves.
 
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