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Thanks for this great post Assad. I'm going to be doing this myself sometime in May. I was just wondering if you're able to help me out with answering a few small questions please?

Did you find it difficult to put back the door handle and lock cables? Or is if straight forward to remove and put back?

As well, do you know if there are seperate connections to the ambient lighting on the door or is it incorporated into the window switch? I just dont want to damage it when pulling off the panel.

As well, do I have to be careful when inserting the mat on the inside metal? I'm worried that it might interfere with the window operation. Anything I should know?

Finally, did you have any issues reinstalling the panel using 80ml sound deadened? I noticed on your driver side door you covered the clip holes and just poked a hole onto it but on the passenger side you cut out around it?

Sorry for all the questions. You just seem to have done an awesome job from the pictures.

If anyone else has experience, please let me know.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Hi @vortex,


Putting back the cables and door handles is straight forward, I do not think you will have any issues there


No, it will interfere with the window opening at all


You should cut the mat around the door clip instead of just putting a hole, it make it easier to put the door panel back.


Also, make sure you have some extra clips, just incase you break or loose one:


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Concerning the ambient light on the door panel, it wasn't easy at all, that's why I did not document it here or took any pictures.


The main issue:
I could not find +12V inside the door panel where you can tap to power the LED. The lights on the windows UP/DOWN switches are +5V, that's why I could not tap into them. So I had to route +12V, and +ILLUM signals from inside the car by going through the rubber boot connecting the door to the car chassis. There is a big connector on that rubber boot, so you have to be very careful not to break any existing wires when fishing the wires to power the LEDs from the inside of the car. Not an easy task, and takes lots of time to fish those wires (+12V and ILLUM) through.

The +ILLUM signal powers all the LED, because they only come on when the headlights come on.
 

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Thanks for your help Assad. I really appreciate it.

I ended up getting 72sq feet of the sound deadener.

2 packs of 36sqft. 80ml thickness.

I am planning on doing all 4 doors. Both the inside sheet metal and the stamped metal behind the door panel.

I also plan to do some of the hatch. I don't want to go too crazy on that due to not wanting to weigh it down too much for the motors.

I also plan to throw some under the spare tire area where the subwoofer is.

If I have any left over then I might end up putting some under the hood behind that foam padding that's attached to it. Just to prevent the engine vibration going through the hood. Anything left over after that is getting stuck onto my in home furnace ducts.
 

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Do you guys know if I have to remove blindspot monitor on the door before I can remove the door trim? If so, does anyone know how to remove it?
 

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Do you guys know if I have to remove blindspot monitor on the door before I can remove the door trim? If so, does anyone know how to remove it?
No, but it does make it difficult getting it back on. I had to use a plastic tool to guide the rubber back in place correctly without distorting in that area.


Have a good day.
 
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