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I take it you also did the power steering hose replacement at the same time? How did you determine which hose was leaking? Was it easier with the top of the engine off? Sorry for all the questions, but I've also got a leaking PS hose.
You can crawl under the car and do a visual inspection to see where the source is. I'll lay 50 to 1 it's the high pressure hose, I've never heard of the other (much cheaper) hose leaking.


WRONG! That metal bar that spans the whole engine compartment can be removed. You have to remove the wiper arms, wiper motor assembly, the plastic cover, and only then will the bolts that hold down the bar become visible. You'll need to remove the bar to get to the back end of the engine.

It also really helps to open up the engine bay. If you have to go after the power steering pump or hoses, it might be good to remove the bar to have more working room. It takes about 30 minutes to remove it.
Hey, I'm not saying it can't be removed, I'm just saying the wipers don't have to be removed to change the plugs. Of course, if you want to remove it, that's ok too!
 

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WRONG! That metal bar that spans the whole engine compartment can be removed. You have to remove the wiper arms, wiper motor assembly, the plastic cover, and only then will the bolts that hold down the bar become visible. You'll need to remove the bar to get to the back end of the engine.

It also really helps to open up the engine bay. If you have to go after the power steering pump or hoses, it might be good to remove the bar to have more working room. It takes about 30 minutes to remove it.

Go back to page 2 of this thread and the member describes how he did it.
 

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Changing the plugs took longer than the 2 1/2 hours that others have taken. Car is right hand drive and wiper motor and support tray had to come off as the brackets at the back of the inlet manifold couldn't be accessed. They had to come off as the wiring stopped the manifold being lifted away. Cleaned everything up before re-assembly and now the driver side washer nozzle works as it should.
 

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BTW, a local "Master Tech" garage quoted me over $300 yesterday to replace the plugs, and would not use my plugs as "Parts is where we make our money", as he told me.

Thanks.........
This is a true statement and should be a surprise to no one. Shops are a profit-making enterprise and the markup they make on parts is a vital part of their income.
 

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I'm about to change the plugs on my 04 Murano. I'm really not too worried about taking off the intake manifold but I am worried about the SES light. On some other posts they mention having the battery disconnected for over 15 minutes causes issues... Does this mean you guys are changing the plugs with the battery connected? That doesn't make sense to me. I don't know why???

Is there any way to change these plugs and definitely not get the SES light???
 

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I'm about to change the plugs on my 04 Murano. I'm really not too worried about taking off the intake manifold but I am worried about the SES light. On some other posts they mention having the battery disconnected for over 15 minutes causes issues... Does this mean you guys are changing the plugs with the battery connected? That doesn't make sense to me. I don't know why???

Is there any way to change these plugs and definitely not get the SES light???
You don't have to disconnect the battery.
 

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Changed my plugs out yesterday. Props to you guys that did it in 2 1/2 hours, ended up taking me a little longer. Didn't disconnect anything that didn't have to be, including the battery, and still got the SES light with a P0507 code. I performed the Idle Relearn, cleared the code, but still had too high of an idle. The code came back, cleared the SES light, performed the relearn again with the same result. Left the battery unhooked over night to try and reset the ECM completely, same high idle this morning. Performed another Idle Relearn, cleared the code, made it to work, SES light again!

I gave up and took it to the Service Department. They charged me $50 to reset the ECM and all is as it should be now. Still made out for much cheaper than if I had paid to have the plugs replaced.

My question is, has anyone tried the Idle Relearn procedure and it actually work? When I was doing it I followed all of the steps completely and the car behaved as if it were actually working. I was able to clear the code every time I did the relearn, but it never actually solved the high idle problem, and the code came back. The service manager said the relearn procedure never works, but I don't know that I believe that.
 

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Well it's time for me to do this job. The one question I have is; On page EM19 step 3 says to drain the coolant. Does this really need to be done? It was not mentioned in any of the posts.
 

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Finally did this one today.
Took about 3.5 hrs. Thoroughly cleaned throttlebody plus other parts.
No need to have any special instructions to do this, if you can keep track of some bolts you take off. Those new to tinkering with their cars may want to have instructions and plenty of time to get this done.

To the person who said he did not remove the intake manifold to replace the plugs, I hope you realize that you most likely only replaced 5 plugs. To replace all 6, you have to remore the manifold, and some other parts. There is just no clearance to replace the middle rear plug otherwise (space between bottom of manifold and top of coil is about 2mm - no way to replace without taking top parts off).

I cleaned my parts with throttle body cleaner by spraying onto a rag to clean. Sprayed into metal parts to clean and let dry. The reassembled. No SES light. All seems clear and just right.

Good luck to the next person.
 

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I just replaced the plugs in my 2006 Murano with 102K miles, (and PCV valve just because it was there). A few months back I replaced the high-pressure PS hose, so the cowling removal etc went quickly. It only took me about 15 mins to remove the wipers, cowling and support bracket, but the complete job took over 3 hours to finish. I should have replaced the plugs while doing the power steering hose, but didn't think ahead. Of the two jobs, I'm not sure which was more difficult, I now feel I should have let the dealer do the job for his quoted $215. Cost of NGK plugs and gasket from Advance Auto Parts w coupon was $78, an additional $135 for labor would have been well worth it.

No SES light issues, but I did find a bit of oil in one of the spark plug wells, so I guess I have a valve cover gasket replacement in my future. I didn't have a gasket and needed to get the car back together, so I'll have some rework getting back into that part of the engine again. I also found the inside of the manifold discolored from oil, and some crusty bits of something or other on the PCV valve when I removed it. I'm guessing this is where some of my oil is going, as I go through 1 qt per 1.7K miles. (Dealer tells me this amount of oil consumption is “within tolerances”.) Perhaps I will replace the valve cover as suggested by others who claim there is some kind of oil baffle issue that prevents oil from draining properly allowing it to be sucked through the PCV.

I also replaced the oil cooler gasket at the oil filter as oil was seeping from this area. Dealer quoted $355 to replace this gasket and my oil pan which had a flaky rusty bottom, and an oil change. My cost was less than $100 for an easy job, plus oil change.
 

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Did the plugs and intake manifold gasket on my '06 Murano at 102,500 miles last weekend. Closed the hood at 2hrs 45mins. No lights, no problems. Runs like a champ and may have gotten a 5% bump in highway fuel economy; OR, I may be a little lighter on the throttle during acceleration. Followed the instructions in this thread and were very helpful. Had a gear head help me so four hands better than 2.
 

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What happened to the days when you could change plugs in a V-8 in 20 minutes?
Not possible anymore with transversely mounted engines which are mounted as rearward in the engine bay as possible to get the best weight distribution for handling. Even with longitudinally mounted engines, there are now individual ignition coils that require careful handling - you can't just pull off the spark plug wire because that doesn't exist anymore either.
 

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And lets not forget the 'we make more money on service than on cars' agenda 'so make sure your design promotes this aspect' too...lol.




What happened to the days when you could change plugs in a V-8 in 20 minutes?
Not possible anymore with transversely mounted engines which are mounted as rearward in the engine bay as possible to get the best weight distribution for handling. Even with longitudinally mounted engines, there are now individual ignition coils that require careful handling - you can't just pull off the spark plug wire because that doesn't exist anymore either.
 

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And lets not forget the 'we make more money on service than on cars' agenda 'so make sure your design promotes this aspect' too...lol.
And lets not forget that we no longer have to check points, remove and regap plugs every 10k, adjust timing and advance at the distributor, among other things. :rolleyes: Some things are slightly harder to do now, and parts do cost more, but they last LONGER as well. Would you rather pay $3 a plug and change them every 30k, or pay $10 a plug and have it last 100k without being regapped?

Transverse V-shaped engines have never been easy to service the rear plugs. Heck even some longitudinal V8 engines make changing plugs sheer hell, so all-in-all our Murano isnt that bad at all.
 

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Method To Replace Plugs W/O Idle Relearn

Thanks to the instructions, I replaced the plugs yesterday. It took almost 4 hours for me but my goal was to replace the plugs without getting a check engine light afterwards. The way I accomplished that was by removing the plugs without removing a single sensor.

4 hrs later, plugs back in and no Check Engine Light....
 

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Changed mine today in an 2004. Got SES condition, did not have to take the blades or any of the other nonsense off. Waist of time. It took me 2 hrs tops, whole job.
 
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