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it is literally impossible to get bank 3 out w/o taking the manifold off. you can't even use your fingers and touch the coil let alone take it out.

you replaced 5 spark plugs and the cowl wasn't the hard part! :D
 

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Just did this job today and as most have posted it is a time consuming s-o-b! I did not take the cowl off, but my biggest problem was getting to the wiring plug for the rear coils and the two hose connections on the backside of the manifold. In just about every case when it came to a hose connection, the clamp was never in the right spot to compress it. Sometimes you can twist the hose and get to it but what pain!

First item was disconnecting the ground side of the battery and it was also the last thing that I put back together - I did not have any issues with sensors which was nice. One thing that blew my mind was the #5 cylinder and the original equipment plug being finger tight. Not sure what that cost me over the years in power and mileage but just shows that quality control is a problem everywhere. I also took time to clean out the intake track and throttle body which were rather dirty. Seat of the pants test following the work says performance feels snappier and the engine a bit smoother. This engine is a 2007, mileage was 95500, the plugs had opened up quite a bit compared to the new ones - I didn't bother to measure them.

Have fun but plan on a solid Saturday morning to do the job.
 

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can somebody post the oem part number or tech name of the manifold gasket that gets replaced. i want to make sure i'm ordering the correct one.
 

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I'm going to do it over this weekend.
as parts, these are all I need (I think just sparkplug and intake manifold gasket)
got all at advance auto parts

gasket
Felpro Intake Manifold Gasket Set
Part number MS 96454

plugs
NGK Iridium Ix Spark Plug
Part Number 4469

what do I need for tools? 10mm socket, plug socket(14mm??), anything else?
I'm also thinking about spray the cleaner in manifold when it's out of the engine to clean a bit. I do have spray for that.

I see the plug gap is at 0.44 is it better off doing it with 0.4?
 

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Thanks to this site i was able to refer along to the FSM for my initial concerns, but really, when the time came around to get it done, changing the plugs was easy.
Remove the cowl- sure you can find a way around it, but after some contemplation and feeling it out, the few minutes to remove the cowl made life way easier. In removing the windshield wipers, I simply tapped a hammer on the threaded dowels while pulling up on the wiper arms (after marking blades with tape above and below for reinstall) which was the best method.
Car runs better- each of the six original plugs with 117k miles were gapped at .053-.054"... can't wait to check out the mpg increase! All in all- I went very slowly and did the job in like 4 or so hours- no rushing through it. No codes.
 

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Car runs better- each of the six original plugs with 117k miles were gapped at .053-.054"... can't wait to check out the mpg increase! All in all- I went very slowly and did the job in like 4 or so hours- no rushing through it. No codes.
Just for reference, to better understand just how much the gap had eroded over the 117,000 miles, the nominal gap for new plugs is 0.043".

-njjoe
 

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Wow, definitely a bigger task than the older Maxima's. Just curious how often these plugs need to be changed. Currently have 99k miles. Definitely looking to go platinum or with whichever plugs has the longest interval.
 

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My 04 SE AWD just turned over 100K so I decided to change the plugs yesterday afternoon. I basically removed the cowl, the intake flex tubing disconnecting a fat hose, 2 small and 2 medium hoses on the passenger side, along with 2 brackets beside it, 3 medium hoses on the right side along with 1 bracket holding 2 smaller hoses. I only removed 1 electrical connection which is attached to the TB. The 2 front brackets and 5 nuts and bolts holding the intake manifold and the 2 rear support bolts.

Removed the ignition coil inspected each plug tubing. DRY - NO SIGN OF OIL - GOOD. Removed each spark plugs and everyone of them has some/little oil on the threads ONLY. The tip is dry. NOT SO GOOD. Was planning on changing the PCV valve as well but I forgot to get it when I ordered my plugs several months ago. Oh well, just changed the plugs and intake manifold gasket and torqued everything back to specs. Started the car and let it idle for 5 mins. - until the idle goes down to normal RPM. Sounds good - NO idle hunting and NO SES light. Test drove and feels like it maybe a little more responsive. Or maybe I just want to think that way after the labor involved. Anyways, I will observe the front plugs and see if/when the oil on the threads creeps into the plug tubing.

On hind sight, I should have gotten the PCV valve before the job. I was anticipating that one or more plugs will be wet with oil. And I will be needing new rocker covers so I will order the PCV valve along with it. Luckily not yet. I guess next time around.

Its really an easy job. Just takes time to remove lots of stuff and put back. The left rear bracket holding one of the electrical connection took the longest to put back for me. Had a hard time seeing/aiming the bolt into the hole behind the manifold. Of course I fumble and drop the bolt where I need to jack up the car to find it - Sucks. But the rest is just done on normal speed - relax speed that is. :)
 

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I recently changed out plugs/PCV/Knock Sensor on a 2003 SL. Followed the FSM procedures with no issues. On start up I got the infamous PO507 "idle higher than expected" code. I had done the manual relearn process per the FSM with no problem. The issue was that the idle would drop to around 800 RPM after learning. Once the vehicle was shut down and restarted the idle returned to about 975 and the ECM threw the code as expected. Idle, while high, was rock solid and off idle perforance was fine.

This seems to be a common problem as it is all over various Nissan forums. I had an independent shop command the idle down with a high end scanner but he couldn't get the idle to stay down on restart either. I stopped into Lia Nissan in Saratoga Springs and without even looking at the car they wanted to replace the ECM for a couple of thousand. When I asked them to flash the ECM with Consult II they told me that 2003 ECM's couldn't be reprogrammed. They would run Consult II and determine what I "did wrong". For $200.00. I just shook my head and left.

After a few hours of research I discovered some information here.....

P0507 Nissan Altima | Ricks Free Auto Repair Advice Ricks Free Auto Repair Advice | Automotive Repair Tips and How-To

that might help someone. I realize this link says "Altima" but I decided to try the "disconnect a couple of injectors to get the idle speed down" technique anyway. I had nothing to loose and could get to the front bank of cylinders in a couple of minutes. I went through the accelerator pedal released position learning, throttle valve closed position learning and idle air volume learning as described in the FSM. I started my Murano with two injectors unplugged which lowered the idle rpm to around 700 (as compared to 975 with all 6 cylinders functioning) at the end of the idle air volume learning process. Problem solved.

She's now idling at about 750 in neutral/park and 715 in drive. No codes and the idle is retained on restart.
 

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You could have avoided all that idle relearn issue by not disconnecting the battery. I actually never disconnected any electrical plugs except the one on the TB so I can remove the manifold. What I disconnected was the brackets holding the electrical connections thats screwed in the manifold. And of course the vacuum hoses.
 

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I probably should have clarified that. FSM says disconnect battery but unless I'm doing electrical work I generally skip that step.

Battery was never disconnected. Throttle body was never disconnected. I did clean out some deposits in the TB chamber using a little MAF cleaner and a clean rag. It seems to me based on looking at numerous forums that this idle relearning issue is a random event. Some have the problem and some don't. I was confident I'd figure it out, just a matter of time.

I noticed that a lot of folks had problems with the idle air relearn. I used a timer. Set timer for 15 seconds. Start timer when key is turned on. At 12 seconds press accelerator and release 5 times quickly (before timer hits 7 seconds) then wait until timer reaches 0. When timer reaches 0 press pedal to floor and wait for MIL to flash. When MIL stops flashing (solid on) release pedal and start engine within 3 seconds. Simple. You can't miss with a countdown timer, steal one from the kitchen.

Regards
 

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The MAF cleaner disturbed the sensor that is why the idle relearn was necessary. I did not find the need to touch those because my throttle has no issues.
 

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Where is everyone getting their plugs and PCV valves? I might be looking to change these out soon and want to stick with something good, or as close to OEM as possible...I would also like to save some money because I do not need a ton more spent on this car at the moment. Thanks!
 

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Spark plugs in model X are the same thing no matter where you buy them. It doesn't matter, go for the best price. I figure that if the OEM plugs were good for 100K miles, then they're just as good for the replacements.

PCV valve? Haven't done one, but I'd go to a NAPA parts store for one. Go to NAPAonline.com for the part and to find a store near you.
 

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Changed my spark plugs today (with oem NGK's) and also threw in a new PCV valve. The job took a little bit longer than it should have, but I did not remove the wipers and cowl and had to feel for what still needed to be removed in the rear. Only had issues with the rear brackets on the manifold but would be able to pull them off very quickly now that I know how to get at them. Also, no light when I went and assembled everything back together.

Anyways, all plugs had large gaps but I wouldn't expect any different with the amount of miles my car has...I'm actually surprised they lasted as long as they did without any real issues. My only concern is that one plug had a bit of oil on it....all other plugs and their cylinders looked GREAT! The plug that had oil on it is in the rear, closest to the intake/throttle body side. I also noticed that this plug was the only one that was very loose when I went ahead to pull it out. How many others have found plugs with a bit of oil on them? I'm definetly not looking to rebuild my engine but wondered what, if anything, I can or should do to prolong my engine without running into any major issues....
 

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Did the rear plugs and PCV today on our 2003. Did not remove the cowl. The hardest bolt for me was the 12mm you get to from the passenger side. Found it a little easier by unbolting the manifold and moving it a little for better access to the back. I thought about mounting it not to the intake but I think it is where it is because it's farther from the exhaust manifold so I put it back the way it was.

Add time for looking for your wrench you drop down the back of the motor. =)

Tape on the lower left arm helps reduce the bleeding. Some sharp stuff in there.

I also added some insulation to the air conditioning line that runs back there.
 
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