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I've been itching to upgrade my 2013 SV murano's sound system for a really long time and keep losing hope for every mod i want to do. (ex. android auto head unit, adding bluetooth by swapping in a SL radio into my SV)

I'm sure this upgrade should be possible, swapping out the speakers. according to crutch field there are 1 on each door (6-1/2" or 6-3/4") and too on the top corners of the dash (2-3/4")

Has anyone else done this on the 2013/2014 murano? (i'm not too familiar with how much the 2009-2012 are similar to the 2013)

Now there are somethings i just don't have a clue about since im pretty new to all this.

1) i want to upgrade to component speakers with a dedicated tweeters on all 4 doors but i literally have no idea how or where i could possibly mount/wire them since the factory non bose system doesn't have such a thing.
The brightest idea i had was to hot glue/tape them in the little cubbies at the bottom of each door facing outwards.

2) i assume i need to add an amp. how would it integrate with my factory radio? How many channels would my amp need to support? like do component speakers count as 1 channel each? Do i need to run every speaker through the amp?

3) if my sound system is using more power than before, do i need to watch out for my battery dying?

4) I would have loved to add a sub but for the life of me cannot think of a location it would fit well in, it's not a priority for me since i don't think bass is the most important part of the music i listen to.

5) I don't have the bose speaker upgrade but is the center dash speaker just an empty hole for me?


i could have sworn i had like 15 more questions but these are all i can think of for the moment haha

thanks
 

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I did a simple upgrade on my '12. I don't have any special model minus AWD, so no fancy stereo here. Upgrading the radio yielded loss of display for radio on my display above, however, it's not an issue, really. I have only found one or two speakers that fit the dash "tweeters," so I didn't bother. The dash/console comes apart pretty easy and since I went through Crutchfield I had a master sheet. It's a bunch of screws and pop-in panels, however they're tricky to reassemble. The lower passenger airbag warning has a module behind it and if unplugged will disable it. There a YouTube video on how to reenable it...but it's a little tricky. It doesn't HAVE to be unplugged but gets in the way.

I put a double DIN Pioneer I found on sale that had the 52w x 4 max output, a 7-band EQ, custom color display, and Bluetooth as my primary needs, plus preouts if I wanted to amplify and add a sub. It didn't take but an hour or two once I got my head wrapped around it though I'm no novice to mobile audio. Speakers were even easier and there's a decent amount of midbass for 6-1/2" Kickers I also found on sale...not the cheap Walmart one's, either, though not components. Major sound improvement with just these. Do NOT mount those tweeters low...they need to be at close to listening (ear level) somewhere, but not right beside your ear. You can get some that offer angle mount and aim them across to yourself and passengers...like a slant to the passenger across the vehicle left-to-right. The point in this is sound staging. You want your "stage" up where it sounds like it's around you, not in your floor! 馃榿

Components are a little trickier as you have additional wiring, mounting a passive filter at a minimum, and drilling through the door panel for top mounts, hole saw drill for flush mount, etc. You'll want tweeters/component drivers close together firing on-axis (same direction of sound fired) or far and off-axis (different planes of sound fired) to minimize sound distortion and speaker interference. Higher frequencies also tend to be very directional, so you'll hear differences if you move these slightly whereas a sub can sit almost anywhere in a space and the ears don't notice placement as much.

A good sub location would likely be a box in the cargo area or a shallow mount version under a passenger seat (don't rule out amp mounting under the front passenger seat). You can pull up carpet and liquid nails a piece of plywood down so you're not screwing through floor panels when mounting it. Best bet for a sub is to test in multiple locations within the vehicle to see where it resonates/sounds best to YOU the driver as you're primarily it's listener.

Next you may need to address sound deadening; the lower frequencies tend to rattle things in my low-power/simple setup, so a sub will do much more. Anything rattling can use some. You can also use the stuff to trap sound in the car if strategically placed where there's thin metal (which is everything, lol). A little can do a lot, though. Also think that firing a sub at insulation such as the foam in seats and such dampens output on a sub so you have to kick a little more power to the sub or change firing position/direction. Same goes for the smaller speakers though not quite as noticeable.

Adding an amp to factory radio is a bit tricky. You typically use a LOCB (Line Output Converter) which taps signal from your speaker wiring to make a RCA Preouts for an amp. There is a high-level option but amps tend to "pop" at turn on and can blow speakers this way.

Amplifying the stereo at around 200w or so is not a big deal on your charging system but will, of course, drain it faster if played at volume. Anything added also taxes your alternator to some degree to keep up the voltage. Going around 500w-1000w is where you'll see headlight dimming (current draw and the above) and such so you need on the cheap a "cap" or capacitor in line with the amp main power line, somewhere to mount it, as well, etc. 0.5 - 1 farad was about the norm; it's like adding another cell to your battery, electronically speaking. It's just a bit of a bandaid... because now your alternator has to charge that, too. The other option is an alternator upgrade; I have a 200A in my other vehicle from DB Electrical so that was to power 2500W though I won't need all of it...show car stuff, not necessary volume to blow my ear drums. 馃槄 That's a whole other beast being I had to buy/upgrade my power lead to 2 gauge, my ground/negative to 2 gauge, have a 250A inline fuse, etc. You pay to play...

This is a basic rundown to start with though there's SOOOOO much more to it. I'd suggest sitting down figuring out a budget of what you can AFFORD and design around that. Decide what you NEED in the stereo system FIRST then add wants when remaining budget allows. You'll be much happier in the outcome this way because you CHOSE to buy/install what will fit your lifestyle better and have little regret if any. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah im going to stick to the factory radio just because of how many features i would lose (primarily climate control)
The 2013 base murano has no way to upgrade without some custom mount that would just look very out of place and ugly.

right now my plan is 4 x Kenwood Excelon XR-1703HR (one on each door)
msrp is super expensive but i have seen it drop down to significantly less and am planning on waiting for the drop again

2 x Kenwood Excelon KFC-X2C for the 2 dash speakers
i figure if im going to upgrade all the other speakers i might as well do these as well
amp: Kenwood Excelon XR401-4

Thanks for letting me know i should be mounting the tweeters high. I am hoping that i can wire the component speakers in a way that the 2 from the front get flush mounted into my a pillars and the 2 from the back would be on either the b or c pillars. The wiring for that does intimidate me.

If i am understanding correctly you are saying its best to have the tweeters and woofer fire either as close as possible to parallel or perpendicular. An in between angle would not be ideal.

As for the sub I think im going to skip it as i honestly thought the factory speakers (no sub) had more than ample bass. I imagine these woofers will be able to do better. There were some more reasons but my previous response i spent a very long time writing got deleted :(

I also try to do as much research as i can before and after getting help and i came across amps with speaker level inputs. If i am understanding correctly it would let me skip a LOCB right?

Good to know that it would be the alternator that would be the main concern. It is something obvious but silly me was focused on the battery. I think i might try doing a bunch of bandaids before replacing the alternator if they dont help enough. I think swapping all my lights to leds might help with that too.

I have a budget of up to $2000 for all this but im some extreme couponing and deal hacking i might be able to get all the parts ive mentioned and some other nicknacks for just above $1100. The rest would be to i guess pay for someone to help me with the installation of all this.
 

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Opinion?

2 x Kenwood Excelon KFC-X2C for the 2 dash speakers
i figure if im going to upgrade all the other speakers i might as well do these as well

How do you like those speakers?

I can only find 2 speaker models that will fit that hole.

Scott
Ps. New to this forum and I don't know if it's posted yet, but a leather steering wheel with audio controls will work with the factory "S" radio. You may want to think about this for your next upgrade...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
How do you like those speakers?

I can only find 2 speaker models that will fit that hole.

Scott
Ps. New to this forum and I don't know if it's posted yet, but a leather steering wheel with audio controls will work with the factory "S" radio. You may want to think about this for your next upgrade...
Its gone in and out of stock from crutchfield. ive also seen them before on ebay
 

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Discussion Starter #8
just an update I finally have gotten everything installed in my car
the amp was a perfect fit for behind the dash.
i had some trouble getting the tweeter from my components mounted well,
the ones i bought didn't come with flush mounting hardware and even if they did there really was no place to have it in the back. (in the end of the day i had them all mounted just above the door speakers.)
overall i would recommend coax speakers in the back. If you are feeling adventurous do components in the front.

My music sounds so clear it blows my mind. It's not a you need to hear them side by side a few times to notice kind of improvement.
Night and day difference. I would say it even sounds better than the premium speaker upgrade in my friend's new lexus.

I probably spent more than i had to since the msrp of my parts alone was over $1500 (sales do happen).
Installation also cost a fair bit as well. I found installing an amp as well as wiring for the components to be too daunting for me. I probably would have just done it myself if i went for just 4 coax speakers that didn't need an external amp.
It took a team of 4 people with 3 people working on it the entire time and the 4th every now and then when need a total of just about 3 hours to complete everything.

In the future i plan on adding either a cerwin vega VPAS12ST spare tire subwoofer or JBL BassPro Hub 11" Spare Tire Subwoofer
since i want my entire trunk area these are the only available options that fit my criteria. I will report on them later if i do decide to buy one.

If i were to redo my project from scratch i would probably decide to get less expensive parts as the law of diminishing returns is a thing.

dash speakers as of now there are still the only 2 options available
1) Kenwood Excelon KFC-X2C (I can personally vouch for its great sound)
2) Memphis Audio PRX27 (a lot of great reviews on crutchfield) ( i have no experience with it)

door speakers there are a lot of options i would probably get one of these 2 next time
1) Focal PC 165F (it isn't a lot less expensive than the ones i have had installed but since it is coax you will save on installation if you have a shop do it)
2) Focal ICU-165 (this is for if you want something significantly less expensive but still quality. they are coax as well but their main selling point is that they should work fine without an aftermarket amp, running only off the stock radio but will sound even better with an amp if you decide to add one later.)

Amp, for my needs i wanted something small and something that was class D efficient so i could store it someplace without much circulation to dissipate the heat.
1)kenwood excelon 401-4 (this is the amp i chose and i'm very happy with the form factor, the audio sounds very crisp and clean as well)
2)Kenwood Excelon X302-4 (this is probably the previous year's model and it is also class D, i could have probably saved a bit with this)
 

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Sorry I didn't get back to check in on this earlier but glad you're happy. As far as loss of climate control? I kept all mine and display on the upper with my '12. No ugly mount with a double-DIN head unit but no worries if you didn't want that. I'll try to get a pic for future onlookers soon. That being said just three-way speakers in doors and a head unit does wonders but I really want them amplified now. They do quite well, but I'm a metalhead at core and the punch just isn't there, especially riding around in my other car that has 8" door subs, lol...that HAVE been upgraded. The 6.5" door speakers will likely never be as punchy but they are underpowered for what they can handle.

The highs are crisp enough and I've yet to bother with the dash 2-3/4 speakers but I imagine I could figure something out in time. I'd go component then so only one tweeter set up there, maybe components in back and it's really not too bad fishing wire under snap-in plastic panels and carpet. Always check wiring for chaff points and operation interference and NEVER run signal and power wires nearby as power wires induce voltage into wires nearby when energized due to magnetism. Hole saws make quick flush hole cutters for plastic, just triple-check your mount points for staging and centering before ya drill a pilot. Mock speakers in place (Command tape!) with doors closed and seated nearby and far while eyeballing for eyesores or possible interference with guest, seat, belts, or luxury. Just a couple pointers and my $0.02. 馃槈
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sorry I didn't get back to check in on this earlier but glad you're happy. As far as loss of climate control? I kept all mine and display on the upper with my '12. No ugly mount with a double-DIN head unit but no worries if you didn't want that. I'll try to get a pic for future onlookers soon.
I'd love to see your setup
I actually just added a sub to my setup and man does it sound so good despite making it sound like my car is gonna explode to onlookers
 

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