For those who change oil and filter at home, how do you remove the splash guard covering the filter? There are these plastic fasteners that are neither phillips nor hex head. Is a special tool required? I know I can probably unscrew the filter without removing the guard but I like to do it with as little spill as possible.
Splash Guard Removal for Filter Change
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Trying to remove the splash guard, really part of the wheel well, would simply be more work than it is worth.
The presence or absence of that piece of plastic would make no difference in the amount of spillage, unless you are concerned that the piece of plastic may knock the filter out of your hand.
The real concern during an oil change is with the location of the filter. It is mounted directly over a frame member. Which means that you are guaranteed that oil will dribble on the frame.
I would (and do) conentrate on minimizing the mess from that.
The presence or absence of that piece of plastic would make no difference in the amount of spillage, unless you are concerned that the piece of plastic may knock the filter out of your hand.
The real concern during an oil change is with the location of the filter. It is mounted directly over a frame member. Which means that you are guaranteed that oil will dribble on the frame.
I would (and do) conentrate on minimizing the mess from that.
I agree with UncaDanno... but in order to remove those plastic 'screws/nails' pieces... I have used a small flat head screwdriver put it between the round circle and the flat head plastic washer it's sitting on and 'POP' it out just a little bit, then you pull the whole piece out. Once it's out, you'll see /understand exactly how one of these bolt things work. Just remember, the round circle part gets popped out a little, not all the way... then pull with your hand the hold thing out. (I've also used needle nose pliers to pull the little round part out of the washer part.)gang said:
How confusing do I sound?
I have made a special funnel to address the filter-above-frame issue on my other cars. Basically, it's a funnel with a drain hose connected to redirect the oil. However, I can't use the funnel with the splash guard in place.UncaDanno said:
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About $5 for the Nissan oil filter, plus 4.25 quarts of oil. Easy to do yourself, and even using synthetic oil is much cheaper than your $20 (which is actually quite cheap for a full-service oil change).TheGymKid said:
Plus, you can let it drain longer, you can check everything out yourself, and you know exactly what you're putting into your car.
Of course, the FIRST time you do this, you might spend a little bit more depending on what tools you need to buy. The MO is nice because you don't have to have ramps. But you'll probably need to have an oil filter wrench on hand to remove the old filter (I like the big plier-type because they can get ANY filter off) but you probably don't need one to put the new filter on. You'll need an oil pan, plus make sure you have a good container to store the oil for transport to your local recycling center (gas stations will often take used oil for free as well, but ask before you walk in there with it).
If you do it yourself, just make sure you always have plenty of oil on hand, an extra oil filter in case something gets messed up with the one you're putting on, a NEW crush washer (never re-use the crush washer), and some latex gloves.
Where do you buy your synthetic oil? I always buy 6-pack Mobil 1 at Costco for about $4.33 /qt. So my total is more than $20. But I think it would cost more at any shop if you ask for synthetic.Corin said:
I like to do it myself because it's faster than driving to a shop, wait, and driving back. Besides, on Murano, you don't even need a jack.
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I just bought a couple of 5-quart jugs at WalMart. Right at $20 per jug. It's the only place I've found to get the larger jugs rather than dealing with multiple little ones. We'll have to see how easy it is to measure out 4.25 quarts...gang said:
I might have to use a "normal" container and a funnel to remove the .75 quart out first, then dump the remainder into the engine. Haven't figured it out yet, because the next oil change I do will be the first time using synthetic and the first time using a big jug.
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You don't have to be that precise. DOesn't the jug have a level gauge on the side (where its clear)? You can be off by half a quart and still be fine. I would pour in 4 quarts first, and then add as necessary.Corin said:
I just bought a couple of 5-quart jugs at WalMart. Right at $20 per jug. It's the only place I've found to get the larger jugs rather than dealing with multiple little ones. We'll have to see how easy it is to measure out 4.25 quarts...
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Corin,
I always buy M1 from Walmart. No problems with "measuring". On the side of the container you will see a transparent line - this is the marker. Just pour in 4 quarts and you will be OK.
Oh - use surgical gloves! Otherwise you will not be able to hold a bottle of beer for a week os so!
I always buy M1 from Walmart. No problems with "measuring". On the side of the container you will see a transparent line - this is the marker. Just pour in 4 quarts and you will be OK.
Oh - use surgical gloves! Otherwise you will not be able to hold a bottle of beer for a week os so!
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