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SHIFT_FASTER
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Discussion Starter #1
So I've developed a problem that I thought was something else. The Murano stalls (or almost) every time I start it cold. This happened last spring too, but eventually went away. I thought it was a low battery, but now I don't think so. I talked about it in this thread: http://www.nissanmurano.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2515

Basically when I start it, the RPMs shoot up to 1200-1500 and then immediately drop. That part's normal. But instead of dropping to normal idle (~1000 cold), they drop right to the bottom. Sometimes it recovers and retuns to normal idle, sometimes it just stalls. Help!
 

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MAP, MAT, O2, Temp sensor? Just guessing as any could cause rough idle. I don't have my shop manual disk here to browse.
 

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SHIFT_FASTER
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Discussion Starter #3
I should have specified. There's nothing wrong with the idle, it's perfectly smooth. It's only during the first 2 seconds of starting that there's a problem.
 

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SHIFT_FASTER
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Discussion Starter #4
Update: I tried about 20 times to do an Idle Air Volume Learn last night. It stalls every time. At least that's more quickly reproduceable than one stall each day (during a cold start) and the dealer might actually be able to find something. There were no codes stored.
 

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Finally some to share my pain. I have had this problem for 8 mos. Interestingly it went away for a while after I had my altenator replaced. When you start it cold for the first time it doesn't hold the idle. restart and it runs like a champ. Not a major concern just a little annoying. The dealer could not reproduce. they started it too soon and said no one else as complained about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I think I'll take my multimeter and check the battery voltage with the car off and idling. I guess I'd better check the liquid level in the battery too, since I only had time for an express oil change last time, instead of the Maintenance 1.

It really seemed like the battery was low last year (the RPMs would drop when I turned on electrical accessories), and it made sense to me as it happened after using all the cold weather accessories all winter. Maybe I have borderline alternator disorder. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Now here's something strange I just noticed. The RPMs do not drop and the engine does not stall when I use the remote start. Only when I use the key normally. I wonder what the difference is?

Is there a battery in the key itself? If so, perhaps this is dying, and the immobilizer can't always read the key the first try.
 

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Maybe the stalling has something to do with your remote start circuitry? I know there are some remote start where if you do not get into the car and put the key in the ignition within a set time, the engine will turn off.

I was about to say MAF sensor, but since it starts fine with remote start, I think its related to the remote start.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I don't think it's related, because I had exactly the same symptoms a year ago, long before I installed the remote start.
 

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I have the same issue! The Murano stalls out when first starting up to go to work. In other words, after having sat all night. It stalls only once then starts up fine. It's also damn cold here in Cleveland. I do not have a remote starter. I have a new battery (which is sealed) and alternator because the alternator died on me about a year ago. (Known issue!) Since it's only a minor problem, I haven't taken it to the shop yet, but I'll be watching this post to see what develops. If there is any more info I could give to help troubleshoot, just let me know.

By the way, I have a 2004 SE AWD.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok, so I was wrong, it does it when I use the remote start too. It just happens less often.

My thoughts are Idle Air system or Exhaust Gas Recirculation system.
 

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warm start stalling

Last week my MO stalled when I started it during the day after being off 5 mins. I has only happened once. I have not had a cold or warm stall since. This is weird.
 

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Re: warm start stalling

rugiles said:
Last week my MO stalled when I started it during the day after being off 5 mins. I has only happened once. I have not had a cold
or warm stall since. This is weird.
this is what is happening to me but more than once. this just started last week when i got a new alternator. My cold start is excelent, never stalls, hot start is excelent, but wait about 5 mins. or so and it will stumble bad most of the time it will stall, but it cranks right back up fine. i have a 03 SL AWD with 28,000 miles. Any ideas, im thinking the resetting of the computer had an effect on a sensor like the MAF and it is not responding properly on the 1st crank? any logic to that theory? it not malfunctioning to trip the engine light but just lazy.
 

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the dealer told me today, that is was because of my Cold Air Intake, the computer is not readjusting the idle. wouldnt the CAI cause a high idle instead of a low one? ive had my intake for a year now, and this just occured, plus my computer has been reset before (disconecting the battery) and this has not occured until now, when i got the new alternator. im still going with the theroy of a Lazy Idle air control, or a Mass Air, or Lazy tech working on my MO. but until there is a engine light, im just gonna recrank it and go.

Dennis
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Shift_less said:
the dealer told me today, that is was because of my Cold Air Intake, the computer is not readjusting the idle. wouldnt the CAI cause a high idle instead of a low one? ive had my intake for a year now, and this just occured, plus my computer has been reset before (disconecting the battery) and this has not occured until now, when i got the new alternator. im still going with the theroy of a Lazy Idle air control, or a Mass Air, or Lazy tech working on my MO. but until there is a engine light, im just gonna recrank it and go.

Dennis
That's complete B.S. It's a lazy dealer's excuse so they don't have to look at it. I had the problem for a few weeks last year, before my cold air. I have the problem this year too. I re-installed the stock airbox last week, the problem is still there.

If it was the intake, then why didn't the problem show up when we installed them?

If it was the MAF, the problem would exist for longer than just a few seconds the first time you start the car (it would cause especially rough idle and my idle is as smooth as the day I bought it).

The dealer can set the Idle speed (which shouldn't just change by itself and shouldn't need adjusting) and they can have the computer Re-learn the Idle Air Volume.

It's entirely possible that the Idle Air Valve is sticking for some reason, or the difference between winter air density and summer air density is what's screwing it up (which would be a software bug). Mine only does it in the spring, but has done it each year.

I feel it might be related to the alternater, since I can cause my RPMs to drop quite a bit just by upping the electrical load (by turning on heated seats, mirrors, brake lights, etc. Although I had my "charging system" checked last spring and it was found to be fine. How much of a check they did is anyone's guess.
 

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very good points.

this is what is exactly written on my paper work from the service center. "customer states that when vehicle is warmed up and shut off for about 5 minutes then tried to start back up the engine often will idle down and shut off. checked and found no problems at this time. tried to relearn idle but due to aftermarket cold intake system the ECM would not let the idle air volume be relearned."

so what you think? sounds like a computer problem or the idle volum sensor, that wont let the tech readjust the idle, and wont relearn the idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Shift_less said:
very good points.

this is what is exactly written on my paper work from the service center. "customer states that when vehicle is warmed up and shut off for about 5 minutes then tried to start back up the engine often will idle down and shut off. checked and found no problems at this time. tried to relearn idle but due to aftermarket cold intake system the ECM would not let the idle air volume be relearned."

so what you think? sounds like a computer problem or the idle volum sensor, that wont let the tech readjust the idle, and wont relearn the idle.

Now that's fascinating! There's a procedure to get the computer to re-learn the idle air by using the key and throttle in a specific combo. Every time I try it, the car stalls. With and without the cold air intake. I haven't had the dealer try to do it with the Consult programmer, but I'm betting I'd get the same response as you.

I've been researching to see if this is a more widespread problem, and unforunately it seems to be. I'm reading reports of 1998 Maximas with the same problem. Since the problem has been around for a while, I'm going to see if I can find a pattern of what might fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well, I didn't come up with much in terms of fixes that work. One person had a "semi faulty" MAF, another had a cracked manifold. They're both feasible (both would cause intermittent bad air measurements).

I think I might make my dealership try to do an idle air volume learn and see what happens.
 

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Did you check your MAF probe to see if its contaminated with filter oil? Thats a slight possibility.

When the MAF meter failed on my Maxima, the engine would start, but once you revved it past 2000RPM, it would immediately stall. Tried cleaning the MAF sensor (it was already clean, so no effect). Replacing it did the trick.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I looked at it, it looked really clean. Would I see a residue if it was oily?
 
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