[Mak]

I have a 2004 nissan murano SL when I start my car up the first time no problems then let's say I take a trip to the store down the street I get back in it to start it up when I do the rpms start up then they go to zero then back to the normal location as this happens the car shakes then every start after this is the same. I replaced the battery cause I had the other battery for 4 years thinking it was that I replaced it with a agm battery still same problem. This his only started happening when my radiator was cracked and coolant was leaking and I had the car sitting for a week in the cold and had the radiator hoses ac belt thermostat all replaced don't know if this helps or not I just wanted to provide as much information as possible.

 

[I need coffee]

I have a 2004 nissan murano SL when I start my car up the first time no problems then let's say I take a trip to the store down the street I get back in it to start it up when I do the rpms start up then they go to zero then back to the normal location as this happens the car shakes then every start after this is the same. I replaced the battery cause I had the other battery for 4 years thinking it was that I replaced it with a agm battery still same problem. This his only started happening when my radiator was cracked and coolant was leaking and I had the car sitting for a week in the cold and had the radiator hoses ac belt thermostat all replaced don't know if this helps or not I just wanted to provide as much information as possible.

The info about the radiator may be relevant--did the engine actually overheat when the radiator cracked? If not, I'd suggest going over everything that was touched during the replacement of the cooling system parts to make sure all looks in order. Usually (setting aside other variables like an overheating event), when a new problem shows up right after a repair it's because something went amiss during installation or while putting everything back together. Does the engine otherwise operate normally aside from these start-up events or do you notice other issues while driving the car? Is the MIL on or have you tried scanning the ECM for trouble codes?

 

[PaulDay]

It might be air in the cooling system causing a hot spot. Watch the radiator overflow tank to see if the fluid moves up as the car warms up and goes back down when the car is fully cooled down.

If there is no movement in the overflow tank, then there is air is in the system. You'll need access to a radiator fill funnel to remove the air.

They can be purchased on Amazon fairly cheap.

Good luck.

Have a good day.

 

[Mak]

The info about the radiator may be relevant--did the engine actually overheat when the radiator cracked? If not, I'd suggest going over everything that was touched during the replacement of the cooling system parts to make sure all looks in order. Usually (setting aside other variables like an overheating event), when a new problem shows up right after a repair it's because something went amiss during installation or while putting everything back together. Does the engine otherwise operate normally aside from these start-up events or do you notice other issues while driving the car? Is the MIL on or have you tried scanning the ECM for trouble codes?

The temperature gauge went up kind of high not to the overheating mark and its because there was not enough coolant for the radiator fan to kick on. Besides the start up everything else runs good on the car no other problems

 

[Mak]

The info about the radiator may be relevant--did the engine actually overheat when the radiator cracked? If not, I'd suggest going over everything that was touched during the replacement of the cooling system parts to make sure all looks in order. Usually (setting aside other variables like an overheating event), when a new problem shows up right after a repair it's because something went amiss during installation or while putting everything back together. Does the engine otherwise operate normally aside from these start-up events or do you notice other issues while driving the car? Is the MIL on or have you tried scanning the ECM for trouble codes?

Yesterday when I was going to work the check engine light came on and the code It said is misfire in cylinder 2

 

[I need coffee]

Yesterday when I was going to work the check engine light came on and the code It said is misfire in cylinder 2

There should be freeze frame data associated with the code. Post screenshots if you can. Also, check the misfire counters in the OBDII Diagnostic Test Monitors of your scan tool. If you're not sure how to do this, advise what the manufacturer and model number of your scan tool is and I'll try to find it for you.

In the short-term, you have to figure out why that cylinder is misfiring. How many miles are on the car and how long ago were the spark plugs changed? If the plugs are still in good condition then swap the #2 and #4 ignition coils (common culprit for misfires), clear the trouble code (save or note the freeze frame data first), and then drive the car and see if a misfire code comes back and if it changed to a P0304 (i.e. the coil that was originally in cylinder #2) or if is stays as a P0302. If it stays as a P0302 then you can try to swap the #2 and #4 spark plugs and repeat the process to determine whether or not it's a bad plug. If you keep getting a P0302 at that point, then the problem is something else.

Let us know what you find and don't forget to post the information in the 1st paragraph (if you can).

 

[CowBoE]

Hmm...if this problem started right after replacing the radiator
It could be possible that while they were replacing the alternator
and disconnecting coolant hoses, some coolant could've leaked
over the cylinder #2 and dripped into ignition coil slot.

The cylinder #2 if the one that is closest to the radiator cap.

I would remove the cylinder #2 ignition coil and spark plug and see if they are wet.
Also check the cylinder hole and see if you see moisture (or even oil).

If they look visually OK, swap the spark plug & ignition coil in Cylinder #4,
which is just to the right of #2, and see if the P0302 changes to P0304.

 

[Mak]

There should be freeze frame data associated with the code. Post screenshots if you can. Also, check the misfire counters in the OBDII Diagnostic Test Monitors of your scan tool. If you're not sure how to do this, advise what the manufacturer and model number of your scan tool is and I'll try to find it for you.

In the short-term, you have to figure out why that cylinder is misfiring. How many miles are on the car and how long ago were the spark plugs changed? If the plugs are still in good condition then swap the #2 and #4 ignition coils (common culprit for misfires), clear the trouble code (save or note the freeze frame data first), and then drive the car and see if a misfire code comes back and if it changed to a P0304 (i.e. the coil that was originally in cylinder #2) or if is stays as a P0302. If it stays as a P0302 then you can try to swap the #2 and #4 spark plugs and repeat the process to determine whether or not it's a bad plug. If you keep getting a P0302 at that point, then the problem is something else.

Let us know what you find and don't forget to post the information in the 1st paragraph (if you can).

Wow it's been awhile I was looking at old threads the problem was I had a tune and 3 step service done and they cleaned the throttle body so I had to do the idle air relearn after that problem fixed