Strange problem with gauges randomly not working 2005 MO FWD

1404 Views 52 Replies 6 Participants Last post by dadymurano, 3 d ago

dadymurano

Discussion Starter · 3 mo ago

The speedometer always works, but the rpm guage, fuel guage stops working and the SLP, VDC OFF comes on, the light iluminating P R N D goes dark, ABS and Brake light comes on, the blinkers will not work when in this condition.

It happens at random times. While driving or when 1st started. Then all goes back to normal for no reason I can tell. It happens every time i drive it. Has gone for several miles without it happening or can happen every 3 to 5 minutes. Can stay that way for 30 secound to almost the entire drive ( 30 min - 1 hr.) Usually just stays that way for a minute or two, goes normal then happens again.

One thought - is that the battery charging going on and off could affect it? Doesn't the computer tell the alt to turn on and off? It has a new battery. I've charged it overnight outside of the vehicle but it will still randomly acts up. Put it on trickle charge. Nothing seems to affect it.

The only thing i may try is to run a couple of wires into the cab so i can see on a digital volt meter if the alternator is charging or in idle when it happens. I'm not even sure if I'm correct about the computer turning the alt on and off as it feels necessary?
Anyone seen this issue before?

Thanks.

21 - 40 of 53 Posts

dadymurano

Discussion Starter · #21 · 10 d ago (Edited)

I need coffee said:
You mean the Auto Active test outlined in the PDF attachment, correct? Is the door ajar warning light flashing consistent with every time you press/release the button (i.e. not an intermittent connection problem inside the switch)?

Yes. and while i cannot try it at the moment due to the dash is in hiccup mode, yesterday when i was trying to put it in active test mode the door ajar light blinked incossitent with when i pressed the door switch. ? crazy car! or just me?

=========================EDIT=========

EDIT TO SAY - it wasn't the door ajar light blinking about once a secound but the security light that looks like a car that blinks.

Imay need to retry the Active test again if the dash will correct itself long enough. crap.

dadymurano

Discussion Starter · #22 · 10 d ago (Edited)

Well i may need new cooling fan assembly. I tested at the fan connectors and had power & ground after heating up and AC on. the driverside fan is worse than the passenger side. I got both to spin but the drivers side is struggling. It's got a struggling sound to it and the connector has a slight bit of corrosion.

But that another issue. I may be able to set aside some more time this weekend.

I need coffee

· #23 · 9 d ago

dadymurano said:
Well i may need new cooling fan assembly. I tested at the fan connectors and had power & ground after heating up and AC on. the driverside fan is worse than the passenger side. I got both to spin but the drivers side is struggling. It's got a struggling sound to it and the connector has a slight bit of corrosion.

But that another issue. I may be able to set aside some more time this weekend.

I'd like a youtube or an instruction sheet on how to remove the

"A/C Amplifier Climate Control BCM ECU Chassis Computer" or what ever the proper name is.

It's under the radio? i think?

I've checked fuses relays and have both brake light switches removed from their location and taped in the off position so my brake lights are not activated.....then just went ahead and removed the battery for a deep charge.

I'm gonna look for myself, just if someone has a link.....
I probably need to drive this car more often. or sell it to a good mechanic, but dang i've put alot of sweat ito it over time.

I don't know about a video, but the procedure to remove the A/C Auto Amp is likely in the section of the service manual that deals with HVAC Control.

After some checking, it looks like the BCM commands the IPDM to do the Auto Active Test so if the front door switch is fine, then there's some kind of communication problem between the BCM and IPDM. You say your blinkers don't work on the dash when the gauge issue is acting up. Did you ever confirm if the turn signal lamps are still working on the outside of the car when the dash lights don't work? If the exterior turn signal lamps are not working then there may be something wrong with the BCM.

You said you have a "quality" code reader. What's the brand and model number? Have you ever pulled a comm error (U code)?

dadymurano

Discussion Starter · #24 · 9 d ago

confirm if the turn signal lamps are still working on the outside of the car when the dash lights don't work

Yes. They work outside even tho the dash is in hiccup mode. My daughter is over this weekend and i got her to help me check.

I retried initializing the active test by shutting my dr side door 10 times. the interrior light blinked on and off with the door, but still no luck. I printed out the instructions to make sure i din the ignition on/off/on properly

My code reader i'm using is cheap. ANCEL AD310. My laptop with a better program is displaced at the moment.

I have 1 of the brake pedal switches I need to do a make - break test on. may be the ascd? switch.

about to leave for work in a minute. Gonna try to put some time into the Morano this weekend. I may go to local pullapart to practice removing some items befor i try on mine.

Thanks for your help - I'm drinking some german coffee this morning, from ALDI's. Pretty good!

dadymurano

Discussion Starter · #25 · 9 d ago (Edited)

I'm drinking some german coffee this morning, from ALDI's. Pretty good!

I like the German Coffee they sell at ALDI's grocery store.

I do appreciate the help. Had a hard but good day at work. Goodnight everyone.

dadymurano

Discussion Starter · #26 · 7 d ago (Edited)

Just ordered a set of cooling fans. Lifetime warranty. Gonna go ahead and remove the ac amp. Looks very simple after watching a youtube on Murano radio removal. Still have the battery diconnected to check my two brake light switches i have dangling below the brake pedal.
Can't understand the issues that it seems resolutely determined to agrivate me with. Not gonna let it!

dadymurano

Discussion Starter · #27 · 7 d ago (Edited)

The A/C amp has been removed before. It had 1 of the 5 screws holding the circut board in it's plastic case gone. It also has a red mark on it as if it's been replaced/repaired at an earlier time in this cars life. Had to be the original owner as my daughter or I havent ever had it looked at.

The local pull a part yard has two "05's one "06 and one "07 in the yard. May see what they look like. Not too aufull hot outside...........

Battery's inside on deep charge..........

PaulDay

· #28 · 7 d ago

dadymurano said:
It also has a red mark on it

The mark is from QC, performed during assembly verifying position and connections. Color usually designates the inspector on that assembly line.

Have a good day.

Reactions: 1

dadymurano

Discussion Starter · #29 · 7 d ago (Edited)

I got some parts.

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dadymurano

Discussion Starter · #30 · 7 d ago

About 140.00 worth. Two "Radio assembly's w/Heater control" 39.00 ea. The fan assembly was already removed so i got it along with the ash tray (my door doesnt stay shut) - The plug in fuse link that connects to the positive battery post, another cap for my shifter release button (not sure if i lost mine) and a 3rd "heater control" from a 2006. - no charge-

The "heater control" is the A/C amp. So i got 3 of those. two from an '05 and one from an '06. total came to $139.11 so hopefully i can get something fixed and take a part or two back for refund within 30 days.

I think the guy checking me out just charged the lowest amount as we both wanted to be somewhere else today.

I've already ordered a new set of fans so I'll probably take these back or keep for a spare.

So.........maybe by tomorrow? I'll at least know something more!

Reactions: 2

dadymurano

Discussion Starter · #31 · 7 d ago (Edited)

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dadymurano

Discussion Starter · #32 · 7 d ago

3

This is the two brake pedal switches i got. One is N/O - white connector the other is N/C the brown connector. I also learned how to unplug them without standing on my head under the steering wheel.

Just press the tab and pull.

Now i'll just replace both of mine.

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dadymurano

Discussion Starter · #33 · 7 d ago (Edited)

The one above with the white connector is for a later model than my '05 but is still a N/C switch, just a smaller connector.

To remove them from their location turn counter clockwise.

You need to install with the brake pedal full up. Insert the switch as far as it will go and turn clockwise to lock in place. I did the top one 1st then the bottom, bottom one didnt need to go as far in as the top one. Looks like it is possible to instal a good switch improperly if you don't use proper technique.

dadymurano

Discussion Starter · #34 · 7 d ago

Just popped my 1st beer. Not a bud light, but that's OK if you enjoy it.

dadymurano

Discussion Starter · #35 · 7 d ago

PaulDay said:
The mark is from QC, performed during assembly verifying position and connections. Color usually designates the inspector on that assembly line.

Have a good day.

I messed up my title as this is a 2005 Nissan Murano SL with FWD. NOT a 2002.

You have the power to fix that!

dadymurano

Discussion Starter · #36 · 7 d ago (Edited)

Well so much for junk yard parts ... my shift lever is working probably due to brake light switch replacement.

BUT.........

The symptoms reported in the 1st post is reminiscent of the combination meter's fail-safe mode. If ground issues have been ruled out then I'd probably be looking at the A/C Amp or combination meter itself.

I still have this issue.
================================

Gotta be the instrument cluster? Should have pulled the one from the nice clean '05

dadymurano

Discussion Starter · #37 · 6 d ago (Edited)

I found the problem (the one this thread title is about) and it has been corrected. I also lost 30,000 miles from my Murano

Took back the cooling fans (only got credit)....but i wanted an instrument cluster off that '05 they had in the yard. Super easy to remove. Brought them home and plugged them in...VOILA everything is working.

Reactions: 1

dadymurano

Discussion Starter · #38 · 6 d ago (Edited)

Went from 210,000 to 176,000......showing on the dash.

I havent finished with the MO yet but it's a big relief having something go right this weekend! Hope it continues.

Reactions: 3

dadymurano

Discussion Starter · #39 · 6 d ago

3

Taking pic's when i should be turning screws............

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dadymurano

Discussion Starter · #40 · 6 d ago

Still gotta replace the cooling fans when the arrive.

Drove it some and it runs good. I was suprised no codes, but I've had the battery disconnected.

---oh, and i can see what my actual tire pressure is again.

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