Since I am a double ASE Master Certified Mechanic (was, gave it up when I slipped a disk in my back from being a heavy equip mech. as well) Heavy Equip Master Mechanic, and Automotive Master Mechanic. I am very proud of those cause I was 22 when I finished both of them and was one in 5000 mechanics in the US in 94 when I finished them.
So I will give my 3 cents. Enforcer has a good plan.
The bottom line is to drive relatively conservative for the first 1500 miles or so, using different speeds along the way. Never driving a constant speed for longer than 5 min or so.
Then start to drive a little more aggresively, full throttle take offs, passing people, getting rpm's up there for a short period of time.
Then continue to drive this way and enforcers way until the 3500 mile mark. Then do an oil change.
After that you can pretty much drive whatever way you choice.
Do not do an oil change prior to 3500 miles. As the oil needs to "Set" as well. It changes with the heat and everything else in an engine and sets up with it. This is my personal opinion, not a proven fact.
I also wouldn't use synthetic oil until after 3500 miles, which to me is the end of the break in period.
I would also recommend getting a K&N air filter to allow for more air intake into the engine. This helps in numerous ways, to include keeping the valve train cleaner by having better combustion with more air. It will also pay for itself by the savings in gas over the long run.
As far as changing oil with synthetic and timing. I would change the oil at the recommened levels as far as your manual goes regardless of what the oil says. Unless you want to have to deal with the dealer when something happens to your enginen and they blame it on you waiting to change your oil every 5000 miles, when they said to do it every 3750. I would also change the filter ever time as well. Some people don't believe it or not. I use Mobil 1 due to my knowledge of what I have seen inside torn apart engines with the other different oils out there. Mobil 1 just seems to be the best, and longest tested in my opinion.
I would also recommend changing the transmission fluid in this vehicle exactly as prescribed due to the CVT.
I would also have a brake system flush and refill either every 2 years or whatever the manufacturer recommends. Brake fluid by its make up, attracts water. Which is not good for your abs system. It also gets dirty. Which will harm the pistons in your ABS unit and other brake parts. ABS units are outrageously expensive. So the cost of doing brake fluid flushes will pay for itself if you never have to replace an ABS unit.
Also, tire pressure is a BIG thing. I would check it at least once a month. It affects tire wear as well as other things like gas mileage. And more than you would think. I would also invest in a digital tire pressure gauge to get an accurate reading. Using the ones provided on the tire pressure filler is a questimation at best.
Rotating tires either every oil change or every other oil change, front to back, due to most new tires being steel belted. This will save in the longevity of the tires very much. ALWAYS make sure they use a TORQUE wrench to reinstall your lug nuts so your rotors do not get bent by having uneven tension no the lug nuts.
As far as fuel, I would run 89 or above due to the high compression of this particular engine. It will save you in the long run. Even running 91 would be best. Also adding fuel injector cleaner every couple of fill ups will help keep things clean inside the cylinders, as well as the injectors. NEVER buy it from the gas station. Pick it up at Wal-mart and always keep a few on hand in the trunk hidden carrier.
I also am a very big advocate of using RainX. It works wonders on your windows. It is like waxing your windows, I guess would be the best way to describe it. With my Porsche, I never had to use the wipers, cause the Rainx would keep the rain beaded and blow right off the window. I also use RainX wipers, and RainX wiper fluid to always keep the windows clean and ready to bead up and blow off all the rain.
Lastly, if you live in a state or area where you get snow, I would keep a tow strap, a good one, they have em' at Wal-Mart, they are yellow with hooks on both ends. I would buy the 30ft. This will ensure you can help someone who is stuck and pull them out. The longer distance of the tow strap will ensure you can be far enough away to be on a decent surface to pull them out, and you can always make it shorter by double looping it.
I would also keep any other type of survival, ect. gear in your truck in case something happens and you are in the middle of nowhere. Oh ALMOST FORGOT, Wal-Mart also has this fuel transfer pump thing, where you put one end in your tank and tthe longer end in your favorite new buddies tank. It has a bulb on ita, and all you do is pump the bulb and it will transfer fuel for you, if you run out. It saves a lot of time and trouble if your run out of gas, or on the other hand if someone else runs out of gas. No taking them to the gas station, buying a fuel tank, filling it up, driving them back, ect. Just plug it into both your tanks, pump the bulb and they will have enough fuel to get to a station to get more. And they only cost $1.99 for these things. They are a life saver for you, or someone else if you are out of fuel.
These are just my feelings and opinions from the knowledge I gained while being a mechanic. Some may be right on, some may need a little adjusting, and some may thing some things are off. Any corrections or conflicting ideas are welcome and are really what a message board is for.
Preventative maintanance is the key to keeping your SUV running good and keeping the costs low when it comes time for repairs.
I hope some of these ideas help at least one person out there, then they were worth typing.
These are just things I have learned over the years that I felt are worth sharing.
Chez
So I will give my 3 cents. Enforcer has a good plan.
The bottom line is to drive relatively conservative for the first 1500 miles or so, using different speeds along the way. Never driving a constant speed for longer than 5 min or so.
Then start to drive a little more aggresively, full throttle take offs, passing people, getting rpm's up there for a short period of time.
Then continue to drive this way and enforcers way until the 3500 mile mark. Then do an oil change.
After that you can pretty much drive whatever way you choice.
Do not do an oil change prior to 3500 miles. As the oil needs to "Set" as well. It changes with the heat and everything else in an engine and sets up with it. This is my personal opinion, not a proven fact.
I also wouldn't use synthetic oil until after 3500 miles, which to me is the end of the break in period.
I would also recommend getting a K&N air filter to allow for more air intake into the engine. This helps in numerous ways, to include keeping the valve train cleaner by having better combustion with more air. It will also pay for itself by the savings in gas over the long run.
As far as changing oil with synthetic and timing. I would change the oil at the recommened levels as far as your manual goes regardless of what the oil says. Unless you want to have to deal with the dealer when something happens to your enginen and they blame it on you waiting to change your oil every 5000 miles, when they said to do it every 3750. I would also change the filter ever time as well. Some people don't believe it or not. I use Mobil 1 due to my knowledge of what I have seen inside torn apart engines with the other different oils out there. Mobil 1 just seems to be the best, and longest tested in my opinion.
I would also recommend changing the transmission fluid in this vehicle exactly as prescribed due to the CVT.
I would also have a brake system flush and refill either every 2 years or whatever the manufacturer recommends. Brake fluid by its make up, attracts water. Which is not good for your abs system. It also gets dirty. Which will harm the pistons in your ABS unit and other brake parts. ABS units are outrageously expensive. So the cost of doing brake fluid flushes will pay for itself if you never have to replace an ABS unit.
Also, tire pressure is a BIG thing. I would check it at least once a month. It affects tire wear as well as other things like gas mileage. And more than you would think. I would also invest in a digital tire pressure gauge to get an accurate reading. Using the ones provided on the tire pressure filler is a questimation at best.
Rotating tires either every oil change or every other oil change, front to back, due to most new tires being steel belted. This will save in the longevity of the tires very much. ALWAYS make sure they use a TORQUE wrench to reinstall your lug nuts so your rotors do not get bent by having uneven tension no the lug nuts.
As far as fuel, I would run 89 or above due to the high compression of this particular engine. It will save you in the long run. Even running 91 would be best. Also adding fuel injector cleaner every couple of fill ups will help keep things clean inside the cylinders, as well as the injectors. NEVER buy it from the gas station. Pick it up at Wal-mart and always keep a few on hand in the trunk hidden carrier.
I also am a very big advocate of using RainX. It works wonders on your windows. It is like waxing your windows, I guess would be the best way to describe it. With my Porsche, I never had to use the wipers, cause the Rainx would keep the rain beaded and blow right off the window. I also use RainX wipers, and RainX wiper fluid to always keep the windows clean and ready to bead up and blow off all the rain.
Lastly, if you live in a state or area where you get snow, I would keep a tow strap, a good one, they have em' at Wal-Mart, they are yellow with hooks on both ends. I would buy the 30ft. This will ensure you can help someone who is stuck and pull them out. The longer distance of the tow strap will ensure you can be far enough away to be on a decent surface to pull them out, and you can always make it shorter by double looping it.
I would also keep any other type of survival, ect. gear in your truck in case something happens and you are in the middle of nowhere. Oh ALMOST FORGOT, Wal-Mart also has this fuel transfer pump thing, where you put one end in your tank and tthe longer end in your favorite new buddies tank. It has a bulb on ita, and all you do is pump the bulb and it will transfer fuel for you, if you run out. It saves a lot of time and trouble if your run out of gas, or on the other hand if someone else runs out of gas. No taking them to the gas station, buying a fuel tank, filling it up, driving them back, ect. Just plug it into both your tanks, pump the bulb and they will have enough fuel to get to a station to get more. And they only cost $1.99 for these things. They are a life saver for you, or someone else if you are out of fuel.
These are just my feelings and opinions from the knowledge I gained while being a mechanic. Some may be right on, some may need a little adjusting, and some may thing some things are off. Any corrections or conflicting ideas are welcome and are really what a message board is for.
Preventative maintanance is the key to keeping your SUV running good and keeping the costs low when it comes time for repairs.
I hope some of these ideas help at least one person out there, then they were worth typing.
These are just things I have learned over the years that I felt are worth sharing.
Chez