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Discussion Starter #1
I'm still in the research mode on buying a new Murano. I would like to get the Dynamic Control Package for safety reasons but I'm hesitant because of the Tire Pressure Monitor System. I've heard that adding that can cause a tire rotation to cost $75.00 and that's if they even have the proper equipment to do it which most places don't.

Any information on this? Anybody regret getting this? Since I live in So. Cal. and will only see very occasional rain is the Dynamic Control Package even necessary (I still plan on getting AWD) or a waste of money?

Also, an unrelated question- I have yet to see a Bourdeaux Murano on the road or at three different dealerships so have yet to form an opinion on that color- comments?

Thanks,
Jimmymac
 

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The wheels can be rotated without re-registering the tires. The manual states on page 4-5 that the pressures are displayed randomly. The manual can be downloaded on the Knowledge Base page. It's a good idea to download this and familiarize yourself when dealing with salesman. To be honest, this statement in the operators manual confuses me. On my Z, it has a specific sequence. And in the service manual, it says the order is FL, FR, RL, RR. It really depends on the order you perform the tire registration procedure in. But even if the MO does have a sequence, that is not a problem. Just write down the sequence and keep track of which wheel went where. The Nissan special tire registration tool is a Kent-Moore #J45295, you also need the Consult II. The SM also has a procedure for re-registering the sensors without the Kent-Moore #J45295 tool, but you still need the $4000 Consult II. I don't know how much the Kent-Moore #J45295 costs, once I found out what the Consult II cost...there went my hopes of re-registering my own.

I have VDC on both my Z and my MO and I love it. There are other threads discussing this, here is one.

This is a lot more complicated but here is how I think of it working. AWD kicks in automagically if it detects it needs to, like if the front wheels are slipping. The VDC kicks in when the g sensor detects a rotation not in the line of steering. Say your on a slippery road and the front wheels cut loose but the front end doesn't slide left or right, then AWD kicks in. Then if the front drifts left or right or the rear drifts left or right VDC kicks in to bring you back in line.

I haven't been in slippery conditions yet with the MO so I can't say. My salesman said he drove one on a special track and no matter what you did, you could not get the MO to spin.

On my Z, I can say. The funny thing is, the Z is purported to understeer. I have never experienced that. For me, the rear end comes loose first. Don't know why exactly, it just does. But when it does, VDC kicks in and brings it under control. Not that I try to drift or anything like that, but occasionally I like to push it in the twisties, learning the limits of the car. I feel real comfortable knowing it is there, meaning I can push it often and without fear.

Deep Bordeaux with the Cabernet Leather interior is very rich looking in person IMO. But the contrast between the parts of the interior that are Cabernet and the parts that are not looks out of place IMO. I have seen two at my dealer. To be honest, I like all the color combos.
 

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I have an SE AWD with the TPMS 1/2 installed - Long story.. I don't have the sensors in the wheels because they had SL wheels on the SE I wanted, but I wanted the SE wheels and they traded with an SE without TPMS and I didn't notice until later..

THAT Aside, I've done a lot of reading about the TPMS.

The wheel sensors can each be programmed to the computer so that they reflect the position of the wheel. Left to right is (if memory serves) FL FR RL RR if programmed according to the service manual.

The owners manual, on the other hand, states that the position of the tires is Random on the display.. I suspect this is because of tire rotation.. Unless someone with the right tools reprograms the computer after the tires are rotated, the positions will no longer match the service manual spec.

So if you can live with the tire pressure indicators being "random" as stated in the owners manual, you don't need to worry about any special procedures for tire rotation.

I think I'll get over the position changing during the tire rotations.. that, or maybe I'll make a friend at the local dealer and get them to loan me the TPMS tool from time to time.. :)
 

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Naw, it's still way too early for that sleep stuff on this coast.. :)

I thought it was very handy that we both focused on different parts of the question.. :)

It rained for the 3rd or 4th time this year last week and I couldn't get traction control or VDC to kick in.. I assume from what you said and what I've read in the service manual that it's similar to Active Handling in the Vettes.. I have kicked that system in plenty on the vette.. Like you say, comforting to know the computer is lookin out for ya when you're pushing your limits.. :D

-tkris
 

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Discussion Starter #6
tkris,

I live in Mission Viejo which has similar infrequent rain as San Diego. Why did you feel you needed the Dynamic Control Package? Also, how do you know that it didn't kick in when it rained last? Were you purposely trying to skid?

Thanks to you and Enforcer for your great responses! The knowledge and technical expertise on this board is phenomenal for us non-technical newbies.

Thanks,
jimmymac
 

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I wanted it mainly for the TPMS.. I've had my 2000 Vette with a similar system for long enough to really really like the idea of being able to check tire pressure every trip with the touch of a button.. How many people do you see pull out a tire gauge at every fuel stop like you're supposed to? :)

As I mentioned, I also have a similar system to VDC in my vette.. It's like ABS in that it's one of those things that under normal circumstances you'll Never need.. but it's the emergency manuver to avoid something on a road that will cause VDC to kick in and keep the vehicle pointed where you want it to go. I think of it as a small insurance policy.

How do I know it didn't kick in? I thought there was an indicator for when it kicks in (going to check PDF of the owners manual...) Yup.. there is a "slip" indicator which doesn't differentiate between VDC and just traction control, and I never got it to kick on. And yes, I was purposfully doing things like punching it through corners and making turns too sharp to try and get it to kick in, but the darn thing was sticking to the road too well despite the water.

I wanted traction control/VDC and AWD mostly for ski season.. Born and raised in San Diego, I want all the help I can get when I drive to the snow in the winter.. :)
 

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Enforcer:

The dealer couldn't get the MO to spin.. they guy must have been keeping it under 20..

in the snow. (or wet roads) I can get it to spin all the time..

The front -> AWD is very opposite as to how a rear -> awd works (Eg Ford expedition) .. and the first few times I put it out very easlier (and alsmot lost control.. I was completly sideways..)

once you get used to the way the MO handles the corners (more like a rally car, where you slide the rear out intentionally and keep sliding it through..) it's ok..
 

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No, you do have to drive 1/10th of a mile or more before the pressures come in. I'm glad to see this thread pop up, because I was going to let everyone know that my TPMS started acting up again. It was 61F this morning when I headed out, and my flat tire alarm went off. The dashboard light was on, and the TPMS showed the fourth tire as flat virtually all day. Even after sitting in a parking garage in NYC for a couple hours in 81F.

As is typical, I was on the way home, thinking that I really need to get to the dealer, and the light went off. See, this is a recurring problem from last winter where I would go through this daily, and the service manager told me to just get there while the light is on so they can pull the code.

The dealer is just a couple miles away, so I should be able to get there some morning soon when I'm working at home.
 

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I, too, am glad this thread has popped up again. I'm still trying to find out in advance what will happen when I put new winter tires and wheels without sensors on. Will I have the warning light on all the time? Also where can one purchase sensors at a lower cost than from the dealer?
 

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FYI, I had my TPMS-equipped tires rotated at the dealer last week and they charged me $20 to do it. This is the second time for rotation and they charged me the same price both times.
 

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I'm also very glad to see a forum on this topic.

I have a 2004 AWD SE, and my "flat tire" warning light will not go off even though I do not have a flat tire.

What I suspect has happened is that, where I am up in Bozeman, Montana, the weather just snapped frigid, which changes tire pressures anyway--this may have caused the tire pressure monitoring system to register a significant fluctuation and alert me to check my tires. But, after checking my tires and finding nothing wrong, how do I get the damn dash warning light to turn off?
 

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Mr. 3 K, 3/3/5. 5K,10/5/7
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I bought Pressure Pro, less cost, easily moved from one car to another, no impact on tire rotation or rim changes. Read pressure when car is standing still. GRIP :D
 

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Bozemanite said:
I'm also very glad to see a forum on this topic.

I have a 2004 AWD SE, and my "flat tire" warning light will not go off even though I do not have a flat tire.

What I suspect has happened is that, where I am up in Bozeman, Montana, the weather just snapped frigid, which changes tire pressures anyway--this may have caused the tire pressure monitoring system to register a significant fluctuation and alert me to check my tires. But, after checking my tires and finding nothing wrong, how do I get the damn dash warning light to turn off?
I think the warning light is programmed to stay on until the tires have at least 27lbs of air in them, regardless of whether or not they look flat.

I've been using TPMS systems for 3 1/2 years now and the outside air temp change will dramatically effect the amount of air in the tires. It's a real pain in the a** this time of year with the daytime and nighttime temps varying so much. Mine read 32-33 in the mornings (real cold) and will be up near 38-40 lbs in the late afternoons on my drive home.
 

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Mr. 3 K, 3/3/5. 5K,10/5/7
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PV=MRT Since M and R and V are almost fixed then, Absolute Pressure change about equals Absolute Temperatue change.
Morning pressure is equal to about about 47 absolute and afternoon pressure is about 54 so the absolute temperature must be changing by about 53/47 or 12% which amounts to .12 times 530 or about 60 degrees. Could the time and driving raise internal temperature about 60F over what it is in the morning to say 125F. Maybe. Grip :D


(PS, added in editing) down here in August we have been know to have payvement temperatures of 150F then add to that the tire flexing to "work the temperature up even higher!
 

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gripper don...

Isnt it PV=MRT is for ideal gas..just my 2 cents here. I am not a mechanical/electrical/chemical engineer bty.

Just trying to recallmy basic thermo class.
Ambient air is definetely not ideal gas.
But i agree with you, that formula is a good ilustration for explaining the point. ;)
 

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Mr. 3 K, 3/3/5. 5K,10/5/7
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That is EXACTLY true but since air is primarly a binary mixture of about 80%Nitrogen and 20% Oxygen The mixture behaves so closely as to give you a very realistic idea of what is going on. IF you want to get exact look in Marks Engineering Handbook for the small correction that apply over this range of temp and pressure changes. GRIP :D
 

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Gripperdon, you geek hehehehe

Anyway, are you a mechanical engineer?
Sounds like thermo is your lingo....
Yeap, i recall something like that, one need to refer to a table lookup for 'adjustment' on non ideal gas.
 

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Mr. 3 K, 3/3/5. 5K,10/5/7
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:2:
 
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