Fortunately, the only rattle in my MO comes from the receiver style trailer hitch....when pulling an empty or lightly loaded utility trailer, the hitch rattles non-stop....any ideas on how to quiet the rattle?
this may sound stupid but try small pieces of plywood "wedges".
That's what I did and not a peep! I just tapped it into the area where the hitch receives the part with the ball untill snug, then cut the protruding ends. I even painted it black with a small paint pen.
Looks good anyway and it works.:12:
I rented a u-haul trailer and had to drive from Virginia Beach, VA to Rochecters, NY. I got to about Richmond (1.5 hours) and had to stop and buy about 50 lbs of sand to load the tongue weight so it wouldn't rattle as much. No way I was driving 11 hours with... bang, boom, bang, boom, boom...
The equipment is pricey only for a few trailer rides per year.
You need attachments on the trailer and the following equipment for your MO. The anti-sway bar is optional but it makes the load much more stable on the highway with strong side winds. Notice that the torsions bars inserts under the ball location and also attach to the trailer. They balance the load on all axles and prevent the light steering effect of heavily loaded trailers. My trailer is huge. 20 x 8 ft, 2 x 3500 pd axles on 15 in tires and 4 electric brakes.
In French we call this gizzmo a "pig" but I don't know what it is called in Shakespearian words...
This is weird because my pig's 2 inch shaft inserts very tightly in the receiver. Since I always use the torsion bars, I never noticed any sound coming from there. Of course these are 10,000 pounds torsion bars so there is absolutely no play at all whatever the load is... lol
One piece of advice for all of you guys who pull trailers. The chains now have to be crossed when attached to your car in many states and here in Quebec. Our transport police is checking this and giving fines as if they were not present if they are not crossed. The fine here is $200 per missing or improperly attached chain.
That's called a weight distribution hitch, I used one for my travel trailer behind a suburban. Distributes the tongue weight to all 4 wheels of the tow vehicle. Very smart idea for those hauling more than 2000 lbs. They don't do well with surge brakes on boat trailers though. I got into a boat crowd that says WD hitch a no no with big boats. It seems that they can't use electric brakes on the trailers due to backing the trailer in the water each time it is used.....so they resort to surge brakes.
But, I will say, using a WD hitch on my 8000 lb travel trailer made the sub sit perfectly level when hitched, without it the front wheels looked like they were going to leave the ground.
It's a bit tricky to learn how to hook it up without feeling like it may break your arm. The best way is to lower the load on the ball, jack the tongue with the tongue jack up above it's ride height, connect arm chains, lower tongue jack---taught this many times to newbies at camping parks.
And yes, the reason for crossing the safety chains is so if the tongue leaves the ball, it won't hit the pavement....I thought everyone knew that....
Seems that there is a second reason for crossing the chains. The play for the tongue is considerably reduced and this will prevent the trailer from going to far off-center on either sides even at speed. But of course, using a weight distribution hitch with torsion bars would normally make the chains optional since it is then impossible for the tongue to lift.
2 weeks ago I saw a morron who just dropped his trailer and caused quite an accident on an overpass. No chains. The guy was discussing with the police as I rode by. Guess he had a lot of explaining to do...