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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know there is a lot already out there, but I scored a DrawTite hitch on ebay for $100 (shipping included) and I have some thoughts on the electrical.
I only need a 4 wire hookup, so I have to get a 5-4 conversion to go from the MO separate brake and turn bulbs to the combination units found on most utility trailers.
I see 3 options:
1. Buy a commercial convertor for about $30. I suspect all that is in the box is 4 diodes.
2. Wire with my own 4 diodes (a lot cheaper)
3 Build a sophisticated controller using relay isolation and the existing "tow" supply discussed in another thread.Is that wire in the '03? Where in the wiring diagram is it shown? (still cheaper than 1)
1 & 2 use the existing light power and fusing. OK I guess (almost everyone does it). A short in the trailer will take out the corresponding car light circuit.
3 will require 3 relays and a few diodes (much smaller than the diodes required in 2), and to get really overboard, a switch in the ground supply to the relays to shut it off when no trailer is present.

Just my thoughts.
Any comment?
 

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I haven't taken apart a Modulite (drawtite unit BTW), but I would bet that there were triacs in there--not diodes. Sure would save you on the relays and such. Triacs would protect your oem lighting circuitry in the case of a trailer short. The Modulight is triggered by your oem light wires and provides the trailer lights voltage from the tow wire. Considering that Enforcer took the pic of the Tow wire located in the spare tire wheel well, it has to be an 03. I would think that a high enough amperage modulite would ensure that the triacs wouldn't get too hot running normal trailer lighting.

I guess you could build one yourself, but it isn't that much already built.
 

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I bought the nissan part for $99. It plugs into the factory harness, has gromets for where the wiring goes through the floor and provides a 4 wire plug. It was super easy to install and I would highly recommend it to anyone contemplating trying to fabricate something.

Brent
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Installed mine today. Made it from parts in the "junk" box. 3 relays and 4 diodes. Complete isolation from the car power wiring. The car lighting wires just pull the 3 relays, which connect the trailer lighting to the tow connector.

Only annoyance was the multiple green/black wires in the drivers tail light bundle. The LH turn wire is the one with the two silver dots.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you.
But I do like to share when it can be helpful to someone else.
 

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Yep, I posted the correct wiring (green/black) instructions when I did mine.
It sounds like you have a more interesting junk collection than mine. Good work on the isolation, nothing is better than the perfect design--designed by yourself.

Most of my stuff is metal. Aluminum, stainless and tool steel--sheet, rod and bar. If I need a bracket or tool, I make it myself--much more robust than a purchased one. I have some silverplated buss cable from old Univac mainframes---from 400 conductor 7/16ths to 100 conductor 1/4". Have given a lot of that away to nephews building car audio projects.
 
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