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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought my 2004, Super Black Mo on January 1st 2005, it has less than 300 miles, and its JUST what I wanted in a vehicle. I have the Premium Bose System, and the term Premium should be used loosely. That said the head unit is near perfect. I would only add MP3 capabilities, 4-5 volt signal outputs, and a 5+ band EQ. So that means the speakers and the amp must go.

I plan on driving my mo into the ground for the next 10 years so resale isn't so much of an issue, however I am going to keep my stock speakers and leave the wiring in place. I haven't purchased anything as of yet, but here is my plan...

1. Purchase a 4 channel PAC
2. Purchase a sub level control.
3. Purchase amps.
4. Purchase some sort of active crosover and parametric eq.
5. Upgrade the door speakers.
6. Install mid high range speakers into dash or kick panel.
7. Stealth sub install (so that no cargo space is lost.
8. Install SAT or Aux input in the radio.
9. Improve AM/FM reception.

Overall design goal is to have the system look and act completely stock and sound high end (not just better).

I have studied this forum and have a fairly good idea of where to locate eveything. Most of these items have already been covered. I am going to put the pieces together to form my own odyessy and hopefully have these often asked questions answered in this one thread.

I will post pictures and lest specifics on where and how much something cost and post links when possible...

Now the first step is a call to Crutchfield... :)
 

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Welcome to the forum.

Regarding a stealth sub box, unfortunatley there don't see to be any on the market. JL Audio and MTX don't have anything for the Mo.

In another thread, I had mentioned my thoughts on building a stealth sub enclosure. I have since revised my plan...

Instead of doing it as I mentioned in the other thread, I'm thinking now the best approach would be the leave the tire where it is -- on the floor. Lose the 2" storage tray that sits between the tire and the floor panel. I am thinking of fabricating a fiberglass enclosure that will sit inside the opening of the spare wheel, flare it out over the wheel/tire, and have it come up to where it's almost touching the bottom of the floor panel. According to my (extremely rough) caculations there would be a little over 1 cu. foot of airspace. I would like to mount a single 12" sub (or a 10" if need be) facing up, and I would drill a matrix of holes in the floor panel, but not through the carpet, so as not to cause the floor panel to tend to want to rattle and shake. I have even thought of a rather inventive way to secure the enclusre and spare tire through the inside of the enclosure.

My main concern with this are, first, can it really be done as I envision it, with the limits of the real, physical world being what they are.. and second, how will it really perform. Will the airspace be as I roughly calculate it? I have also heard mixed reviews of the 12" shallow-mount Pioneer sub that I reference in the other thread. Some people say it's an awesome speaker, others say it lacks in the really low frequencies (like below 40Hz). I would be interestd to know if anyone has ever experienced one of these first-hand and how well it performs. There MAY be room to mount a standard 12" or maybe 10" sub using this method, that would have to be measured carefully.

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Its been very busy around here so I haven't had a chance to do much with this, just been enjoying my Murano. And the system DEFINITELY needs an upgrade...

First step is to get the PAC... I had a hard time understanding what was needed. You need three pieces to get this to work correctly...

AMP-RCA $11.00
OEM-1 Factory Sound Interface $30.00
ADD-NIS2 $8.25

I ordered everything from Audiowarehouse.com, here is the link

Audiowarehouse PAC cables

This should save people a lot of time as it took me a quite a bit of time to figure out what pieces I needed. When I get the PAC I will post more information.

I am leaning towards putting in a single 6 channel amp, and I am interested in putting 3 1/2" - 5" speakers in the front dash... Don't know if its possible but if it is I will post it.

jay
 

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soholingo said:
Its been very busy around here so I haven't had a chance to do much with this, just been enjoying my Murano. And the system DEFINITELY needs an upgrade...

First step is to get the PAC... I had a hard time understanding what was needed. You need three pieces to get this to work correctly...

AMP-RCA $11.00
OEM-1 Factory Sound Interface $30.00
ADD-NIS2 $8.25

I ordered everything from Audiowarehouse.com, here is the link

Audiowarehouse PAC cables

This should save people a lot of time as it took me a quite a bit of time to figure out what pieces I needed. When I get the PAC I will post more information.

I am leaning towards putting in a single 6 channel amp, and I am interested in putting 3 1/2" - 5" speakers in the front dash... Don't know if its possible but if it is I will post it.

jay
I'd be interested in what 6-channel amp you choose, and more importantly, where you are going to fit the beast.

You can fit 3" or 3 1/2" speakers in the dash, I don't think 5" will fit but you should be able to tell easily once you pop the covers off.
 

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Mr. 3 K, 3/3/5. 5K,10/5/7
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I did a simple addition of the MTX 202. I ran the Bose sub woffer outputs into the high level inputs of the MTX and it's outputs to the two voice coils of the Bose sub. The improvement is amaizing. By the way the MTX has auto sense so You don't have to run a remote to turn it on. I got it for only 88.90 at Best buy. I was planing to do some speaker changes, but I don't think i need them now. The amp is small and tucks in at the sme location as the Bose but on the drivers side. Easy, Cheap and very cost effective. But it's not some real stomping total change. But very nice for my needs.
 

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Grip, can you describe the improivement you feel gain from adding the mtx 202?

I also have been thinking about upgrading the speakers, but hesitate to make such a significant change without improving the power and this sounds like it maybe a reasonable alternative.
 

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Mr. 3 K, 3/3/5. 5K,10/5/7
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I think:

1. The reduced load on the Bose amp really helped it have more headroom and dynamics are better.

2. The base out of the Sub is easily trippled. I only run the gain on the MTX at about 1/2

3. Since the lower end is better I can up the Trebble and have a more balanced sound.

4. The rear door sound seems fuller.

These are naturally all subjective, not instrument readings, my days of having audio spectrum analizers are gone.

Hope this helps about the best I can do.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Still waiting on the PAC... I have been shopping the amps, and nothing has struck me as a great bargain as of yet...

I am also still up in the air about how to do the speakers. I am thinking full range in the dash, mid bass in the front doors and full range in the rear doors.

So many options and its been years since I last bought a new stereo...

jay
 

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Mr. 3 K, 3/3/5. 5K,10/5/7
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Question or thoughts take your pick:

1. Do you think there is room for full range in the dash.

2. If full range are in the dash will the volume balance be upset between the front doors and the Dash as ther is not a balance control between those two only as a group and the rear doors.

Just houghts really.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
GripperDon said:
Question or thoughts take your pick:

1. Do you think there is room for full range in the dash.

2. If full range are in the dash will the volume balance be upset between the front doors and the Dash as ther is not a balance control between those two only as a group and the rear doors.

Just houghts really.
Gripper,

The thought if I go with Full range in the dash, is that it will push the sound stage forward. If there was a real option to put them in the kick panel that's where the speakers would go. The best imaging I have ever heard in a car was a 73 corolla (or something similar) with 3 1/2 inch speakers in the kick panel, and the factory radio. I was completly stunned by the imaging. You could close your eyes and place each of the instruments precisely, vocals in themiddle, drums BEHIND vocal guitar and bass on the right, piano on the left... etc...

Extremely remarkable considering the age of the car and the lack of technology in the car...

1. I won't know until I crack open the dash opening...

2. I can get the balance through the amps and gain control....

Half the fun of doing these installs is the experimentation...

Jay
 

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Mr. 3 K, 3/3/5. 5K,10/5/7
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Take a pict of the install it willbe very helpful, I may follow you up, Also info on the speaker selections, Thanks Don
 

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Anyone use PAC OEM-2?

Anyone ever tried using the PAC OEM-2 and connecting it right at the amp under the rear passenger-side seat?

Here's my deal: I just got done swapping out all of the speakers (except the sub) with some Polk db 6500's.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-tZDaskV8wSq/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?i=107DB6500
These are component speakers with separate tweeters. I put the tweeters up in the dash location in the front, and in the back doors I mounted the tweeters just in front of the door handle. The sound is WAY better, especially since I really like the sound of Polk speakers (I have the same ones in my other car, too).

The problem now is that, as you all know, the Bose amp can't really drive these speakers well, so I want to replace the amp. I know you can get the PAC OEM-1 and cables and hook things up behind the dash, run RCA cables to the back, etc. But PAC also makes the OEM-2 that just has bare wires. My thinking was I could connect these up at the amplifier in the back, splicing into the input wires running into the current Bose amp, running the RCA cables from the OEM-2 to the new amp, and then disconnecting the front and rear speaker wires from the Bose amp and connecting them to the new amp. I was planning to leave the subwoofer connected to the Bose amp, and assumed that with the old amp only driving the subwoofer I would probably get some performance boost there (I don't need a ton of bass, personally).

What I don't know is what the various colors of wires running into and out of the Bose amp are. Anyone know this, or can anyone tell me where I can find this out? Otherwise I'll have to experiment, which could take a considerable amount of time...

Thanks!
Norm Clark
 

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Mr. 3 K, 3/3/5. 5K,10/5/7
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Uh, not quite what I meant...

I'm not looking to install the AAI-NIS to the rear SAT input. I want to put in a new amplifier, splicing into the signal coming out of the head unit and into the Bose amp. I was hoping to use the OEM-2, which is pretty much the same as the OEM-1, but it doesn't have the plugs which I assume won't work where I'm going to put it. I want to put the OEM-2 just before the Bose amp, attach a different amp to the RCA plugs on the OEM-2, and then detach the speaker wires from the Bose amp and attach them to the new amp. Anyone done something like this? The main thing I'm trying to avoid is having to run new wires to the speakers, and RCA cables back to the amp. Otherwise, I could just install the OEM-1 behind the head unit and do a bunch of wiring.

Thanks for trying, Grip! :)
Norm
 

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clarkne

What is a ". I was hoping to use the OEM-2, which is pretty much the same as the OEM-1'


GRIP :D
 

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OEM-1 vs 2

Here's a link to the PAC Audio page that describes the OEM-1 & 2:
http://www.pac-audio.com/products/oem1.htm

You have to scroll down a bit on the page to find them. Basically, they turn a speaker-level signal into an RCA pre-amp one (and other signal enhancing). It makes it easier to add an amp, or switch the head unit, etc.
 
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