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I have A 2007 Murano that started having a issues with loss in power and struggling on inclines. I had scanner hooked to SUV and it said MAF sensor and camshaft sensors. I replaced all three and it seemed to helped then it got worse after a few days. So I checked codes and it read both O2 sensors , I replaced both . Changed coil boots , new spark plugs , oil, filter, intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets , all new hoses. Then after that it read OIl control solenoid valve p011 and I tried two of them and it still reads p011? I also replaced injector and regulator o rings cause car got bad smell in car and car is eating up gas bad.
 

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Check the air intake tubing thoroughly for holes and cracks, especially in the folds. It's a common source of symptoms like you mentioned...

If your code is p0011, your camshaft position sensor may need to be replaced if the code it still being triggered after your cleared the P0011 error code.
 

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Thanks I’ll check tubing again thoroughly. Plus mine is very stiff compared to other Murano I checked which are Lil more flexible? I put New camshaft sensors On from O’Reilly is possible I bought faulty one reviews show people had issues with their parts. I tried revving gas and I got a rough sound around intake and throttle it sound like air growling sound
 

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2011 Nissan Murano AWD
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That's quite a few electronic components that are throwing fault codes over what seems to be a short period of time. Before you throw any more parts at the car, have the battery and charging system tested. Electrical issues can cause strange problems in these cars.
 
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I replaced battery it was bad , alternator was good. When car first started acting up was same time battery was dying. And a whole bunch of codes so I replaced all those parts and that’s when car just went down hill. I heard Nissans are temperamental when it comes to replacement parts.
 

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2003 Nissan Murano SE AWD
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Definitely check the battery cables, particularly the negative. By all accounts, the original neg battery cable on my 2003 looked pretty good and was pliable from top to bottom (where it attaches to the car's frame). However, at the battery end, where the insulation is missing as the cable bends over and attaches to the terminal that then attaches to the battery post... it was green and hard. Refer to photos. My terminal looks dark/messy because I cleaned it a lot with baking soda and then would coat it with anti-corrosive spray.

You might want to do what I did, and take 20 minutes to piggyback a new neg cable from the frame, using the existing bolt, and see it that makes any difference in the way things are working. Refer to this post... Car won't start - ignition issue - immobilizer sensor

If you disconnect your neg battery cable and try to bend the area where there's no insulation, and it won't bend, I'd replace it regardless. You can get a basic cable at most stores for under $10.
 

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wish could send video of me revving up engine it gets to around 2200 rpm and cuts out sometimes it will get to 3500 then cut out its up and down and gas smell is horrific around bank 1 it brings tears to eyes it so strong
 

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Cryogenix1's suggestion to check the battery ground cable is good advice. And before replacing any more parts, I would suggest making sure it's not a wiring problem elsewhere, especially in the VVT circuit. You can find wiring diagrams in the service manual for your car linked below (see the "Engine Control System" file).

BTW, what kind of scanner do you have (brand and model number)?

https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals
 

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How long have you been driving this car? Sounds like you just got it not too long ago and it’s a neglected one. If the issue started when the battery was dying, I would put back all the oem sensors(if they are oem) that you replaced with aftermarket and see what happens. Then you can slowly, one by one, eliminate which one is good or bad. Relying on after market sensors is a guess work at this point.
You also need to do a very tricky idle relearn procedure. Spark plugs needs to be ngk-same one you removed. Otherwise, issues. Where the fuel injectors bad or you were just guessing because of the smell?
 

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How long have you been driving this car? Sounds like you just got it not too long ago and it’s a neglected one. If the issue started when the battery was dying, I would put back all the oem sensors(if they are oem) that you replaced with aftermarket and see what happens. Then you can slowly, one by one, eliminate which one is good or bad. Relying on after market sensors is a guess work at this point.
You also need to do a very tricky idle relearn procedure. Spark plugs needs to be ngk-same one you removed. Otherwise, issues. Where the fuel injectors bad or you were just guessing because of the smell?
I did a idle relearn on two separate occasions but not exactly if it was correct I went off of information from a supposedly Nissan guide on internet. I never fully checked the injectors except by stethoscope and smell by info to replace o rings. The way it’s running now it used to just do it only on inclines. Yeah I need start over from scratch with parts and proper procedures of tightening bolts and nuts. As I see it Nissans are very delicate and temperamental
 

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Might need the official guide on idle relearn
You can find the service manuals here: https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals


The Android app CVTz50 has an automated idle relearn function that you might find useful:

 

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What is the background on this car? Are you the original owner and these problems just started recently? Or, did you buy the car not long ago and now you're finding these problems?

Also, you say you keep getting a P0011, but alluded to a variety of other sensor codes. List all the codes that you've pulled since this all started.
 

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I always get oem when buying sensors. Eliminates issues.
The Hitachi cam sensors are the same ones that went in at the factory. My rear cam sensor was failing in hot traffic and stalling. Stopped at Advance Auto and had them pull the Hitachi off the shelf, opened the box and it had the same markings as the original part. Havent replaced the front cam sensor, but expect the Hitachi one to be the same.
 

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Thanks I’ll check tubing again thoroughly. Plus mine is very stiff compared to other Murano I checked which are Lil more flexible? I put New camshaft sensors On from O’Reilly is possible I bought faulty one reviews show people had issues with their parts. I tried revving gas and I got a rough sound around intake and throttle it sound like air growling sound
Return those and buy Hitachi cam sensors. I bought my rear one at Advance Auto and it was the same exact part as the one from the factory. Store brand and no-name aftermarket sensors are usually trash. Pay a little more and get the real stuff. IIRC the Hitachi one was cheaper than the store-brand one!

RockAuto should have both Hitachi cam sensors for around $100 total shipped, they're like 70 a piece at Advance.
 

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What is the background on this car? Are you the original owner and these problems just started recently? Or, did you buy the car not long ago and now you're finding these problems?

Also, you say you keep getting a P0011, but alluded to a variety of other sensor codes. List all the codes that you've pulled since this all started.
Bought in March 2020 it ran Verygood til September. It had a slight hiccup on highway it revved and cut off, but after few minutes it cranked back up. So I had it scanned and it read MAF, O2, Camshaft sensors something about voltage issue. Then it it ran good for about a day then got worse. Then it said idle relearn , po11, And closed loops. Makes me wonder I had a Chrysler one time and dumped over a grand in car cause it would keep cutting off . And come to find out it was the computer was bad creating havoc. When I crank her up at gold start I can mash gas revving it up sounds good runs good then after 5 minutes it loses power and sounds like growling sound a air problem top of intake. It might be a fetch but mobile mechanic said if don’t put bolts n stuff in correct order n torque you gone have all kinds of issues
 

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Bought in March 2020 it ran Verygood til September. It had a slight hiccup on highway it revved and cut off, but after few minutes it cranked back up. So I had it scanned and it read MAF, O2, Camshaft sensors something about voltage issue. Then it it ran good for about a day then got worse. Then it said idle relearn , po11, And closed loops. Makes me wonder I had a Chrysler one time and dumped over a grand in car cause it would keep cutting off . And come to find out it was the computer was bad creating havoc. When I crank her up at gold start I can mash gas revving it up sounds good runs good then after 5 minutes it loses power and sounds like growling sound a air problem top of intake. It might be a fetch but mobile mechanic said if don’t put bolts n stuff in correct order n torque you gone have all kinds of issues
I'll circle back to my first reply--that's an awful lot of sensors/solenoids that are throwing faults in such a short period of time and that's too coincidental, IMO. I would be checking ground connections, especially if any are shared among those components. Some sensors are grounded through the ECM (e.g. the VVT solenoid duty cycle is controlled on the ground side by the ECM via pulse-width modulation), so you would want to verify the integrity of the ECM ground connections.

Also, the fact that the car appears to run fine in the first few minutes of driving according to your previous post is likely another clue. It could be that it's a close-loop fuel cycle issue or perhaps that something is malfunctioning when it starts to get hot? Thus, you would want to do your testing while the engine is hot and acting up.

When you have this many problems at once, it can seem overwhelming so try to start somewhere and start verifying that components and their circuits are operating normally so you can begin to rule out things and narrow down the possible problems. And, if you rule out everything else and the ECM powers/grounds check out then you may be looking at a faulty ECM--it's rare, but it could happen.
 

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Bought in March 2020 it ran Verygood til September. It had a slight hiccup on highway it revved and cut off, but after few minutes it cranked back up. So I had it scanned and it read MAF, O2, Camshaft sensors something about voltage issue. Then it it ran good for about a day then got worse. Then it said idle relearn , po11, And closed loops. Makes me wonder I had a Chrysler one time and dumped over a grand in car cause it would keep cutting off . And come to find out it was the computer was bad creating havoc. When I crank her up at gold start I can mash gas revving it up sounds good runs good then after 5 minutes it loses power and sounds like growling sound a air problem top of intake. It might be a fetch but mobile mechanic said if don’t put bolts n stuff in correct order n torque you gone have all kinds of issues
Check your alternator! If its not putting out ~13.8V, your sensors and modules are going to go whacky and stall out. The cam sensors overheating will also stall the engine.

Mine was putting out about 12V and dropping to 10-11V if too many accessories were on and it would lose power, become unresponsive and stall. Installed a low-mileage used alternator and it works perfect.
 
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