Sure, I just order 2 cans (Hard to find in HI, internet order are ground shipping only, I find a seller willing to take the risk)
Now, there are the Easy Way and the Hard Way.
1. The Easy Way,
Take out the taillights, wash it well, and dry completely.
Spray 12 inches away from the taillights (MAKE SURE TO DO THIN COATS, 2 COATS FOR LIGHT SMOKE, 4 COATS FOR DARK BLACK)
Take 15 minutes from each coats, when you are done, make sure spray 2-3 clear coats to preserve the finish. 8 to 10 hours to dry.
2. The Hard Way,
STEP 1: Removing the lights
Fist we are going to remove the rear taillights.
STEP 2: Preparing the surface
We will now prepare the light surface for painting. 600 grit sand paper and start sanding the glossy surface of the lamp. You must do this to ensure the paint sticks.
STEP 3: Spraying the lights
You only needed 1 can for the taillights. But if this is your first time, I recommend buying at least 2 cans. (Leaving room for error). You can go anywhere between lightly smoked, to pitch black. You control this with how thick you spray the tint on (number of coats). To spray the tint get in a well ventilated area preferable one with few contaminants in the air. Spray the tint on using even strokes being sure to cover the entire light. DO NOT let the paint drip or you may have poor results or need to start all over with the sanding process. It is better to spray the tint on too thin and need to go over it multiple times than to spray it on thick and have runs in the finish. Go ahead and LIGHTLY sand the lights using 800-1000 grit paper to get the tint smoothed out. Now spray on the clear coat. You can spray this on a bit thicker than the tint. You can reinstall the lamps in the reverse order they were removed.
STEP 4: Wet sand and buff
This step can be performed off the car, but it seems easier with the lights mounted. Mask off the area around the lights to prevent damage to the paint. In a spray bottle mix some dish soap and water to get a smooth lubrication for the sand paper. Using 1500 grit sandpaper, go over the entire surface removing any runs, pits, or scratches. Make sure to keep the surface wet at all times. Step up to a 2000 grit to remove the scratches caused by the 1500 grit, again using the wet process.
Now to get the best shine possible, buffer and 3 stages of buffing compound. Starting with the medium cut cleaner put a generous amount onto the buffing pad. Buff the lights to remove all the sanding scratches. Just let the buffer do its job. Wash the lights and dry to ensure you have removed all blemishes. Repeat the step with the Fine cut cleaner using a different buffing pad. Finally with a fresh pad on the buffer go over the lights with the Gloss polish. This will bring the lights to a brilliant shine just like the paint on the car. The sanding / buffing step takes the longest in this whole process. It is also one of the most important so take you time.
BTW, Gripper could you tell me more about your tinting job. Just wondering if your way is less hassle? I would like to see your MO's pic if you still have it. Thanks. :5:
I am not going to do this on my MO as it is my daily driver, and I don't want the risk. I have done this on several show cars and motorcycles I have owned. Check with your local laws, but I'm almost sure it will be illegal as it covers the reflectors in the tail lights.