It's common for the 1st gen Murano hatch latch to rust... I was able to keep mine working for several years by manually pushing the hatch opening handle closed due to it acting sticky and staying unlatched, this allowed the opener to function properly. However, depending on how damaged yours is, you may need to replace it. There are threads in the 1st gen forum discussing this along with some innovative solutions.
Yet another, "my trunk won't open" thread
I did the search and looked through old threads. I'm looking for trouble shooting advice or possibly a "yeah it is this part".
So the trunk latch has been giving us trouble for a while. At first, we just held the button a little longer. Then, we had to push it and wiggle. Then i had to press hard and pull. Now nothing. The big difference now is (besides it not opening at all) is that when we press the unlock button on the key fob or the door button twice, you don't hear the unlock sound from the trunk anymore. I'm hoping that's the "give away" here. Wondering if the latch piece failed or if you guys think the actual pressure switch failed. Or any advice on trouble shooting the situation with these things in mind.
Thank you for your time!
So the trunk latch has been giving us trouble for a while. At first, we just held the button a little longer. Then, we had to push it and wiggle. Then i had to press hard and pull. Now nothing. The big difference now is (besides it not opening at all) is that when we press the unlock button on the key fob or the door button twice, you don't hear the unlock sound from the trunk anymore. I'm hoping that's the "give away" here. Wondering if the latch piece failed or if you guys think the actual pressure switch failed. Or any advice on trouble shooting the situation with these things in mind.
Thank you for your time!
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I'm not seeing any rust. Mine is 2007 if that helps. I'm ok with replacing parts but am wondering how to trouble shoot the parts.It's common for the 1st gen Murano hatch latch to rust... I was able to keep mine working for several years by manually pushing the hatch opening handle closed due to it acting sticky and staying unlatched, this allowed the opener to function properly. However, depending on how damaged yours is, you may need to replace it. There are threads in the 1st gen forum discussing this along with some innovative solutions.
How would i know if it's the latch or the pressure switch? Imo, it seems like the pressure switch slowly died, but I'm not sure if that happens.
I've read 10 plus threads, watched YouTube videos, etc... but most talk about fuses and replacement, button mods, key holes etc...i don't have a key hole, rear latch fuse, etc... but i do want to know how to figure out if it's the latch or the button. Both seem to be cheap on Amazon or eBay, but if like to know which one is at fault.
Any ideas would be appreciated!
I will keep digging through threads and see if something pops up.
Thank you for the reply!!
I'm not seeing any rust. Mine is 2007 if that helps. I'm ok with replacing parts but am wondering how to trouble shoot the parts.
How would i know if it's the latch or the pressure switch? Imo, it seems like the pressure switch slowly died, but I'm not sure if that happens.
I've read 10 plus threads, watched YouTube videos, etc... but most talk about fuses and replacement, button mods, key holes etc...i don't have a key hole, rear latch fuse, etc... but i do want to know how to figure out if it's the latch or the button. Both seem to be cheap on Amazon or eBay, but if like to know which one is at fault.
Any ideas would be appreciated!
I will keep digging through threads and see if something pops up.
Thank you for the reply!!
Search results for query: hatch latch
www.nissanmurano.org
Nevermind. I was wrong. You were right. Thank you!!!
You probably just need to replace the relay located behind the panel in front of the driver side door.
I got the relay on Ebay for $8.85 (part # 25230-79917)
It's very easy to do. You need a 10mm wrench.
Have someone squeeze the rear opener, you can hear the bad relay clicking behind the panel to the left of your leg.
I bought the new actuator $20.87 (part # 90502CA00C) and new switch assembly $8.49 (part # 25380-ED000) before trying a new relay, but I should have tried a new relay first.
I got all the parts on Ebay. DONT get them at a Nissan dealer... they'll charge you hundreds.
Good luck
2007 Murano SL
I got the relay on Ebay for $8.85 (part # 25230-79917)
It's very easy to do. You need a 10mm wrench.
Have someone squeeze the rear opener, you can hear the bad relay clicking behind the panel to the left of your leg.
I bought the new actuator $20.87 (part # 90502CA00C) and new switch assembly $8.49 (part # 25380-ED000) before trying a new relay, but I should have tried a new relay first.
I got all the parts on Ebay. DONT get them at a Nissan dealer... they'll charge you hundreds.
Good luck
2007 Murano SL
After taking the actuator out, it wasn't rusty at all inside. Just put in the actuator and it still doesn't work. Why would putting the wd40 etc on it cause it to work like new, then die again? The replacement doesn't work either.
I listened for a clicking relay by the driver's side door. I didn't hear anything. I'll give that a shot though.
I listened for a clicking relay by the driver's side door. I didn't hear anything. I'll give that a shot though.
Yeah, you should hear the relay if it's good... The relay may be located under the fuse panel inside though... There are also some relays in the IPDM under the hood near the battery if I recall.
Yeah, you should also hear the solenoid/actuator at the hatch too I believe...
Maybe check if power is getting to it when it's supposed to be triggered.
You can find the service manuals here:
www.nicoclub.com
Maybe check if power is getting to it when it's supposed to be triggered.
You can find the service manuals here:
How To Use NICOclub Factory Service Manuals
Here's a step-by-step guide to help find the correct Factory Service Manual for your Nissan, Infiniti, or Datsun - and a tutorial on how to use it!
www.nicoclub.com
Bought a new switch, swapped it out, and everything works great! Thank you guys for all of your help!
Which switch did you replace? The pressure switch above the license plate or the relay switch?
I have the same problem on and off. I sprayed WD40 and wiggled the wires to the lock. It would work for while then stops again.
I have the same problem on and off. I sprayed WD40 and wiggled the wires to the lock. It would work for while then stops again.
Have similar issue. Have replaced actuator and it burned out along with taillights blowing a fuse when turned on. I switched back to old actuator, have a switch coming as well. Weirdest thing is that when you turn on the lights whether in park or full the actuator cycles and stays open. Only way to cycle actuator with lights off is to use key fob lock and then unlock it cycles the actuator. Currently waiting on switch and when I pulled the relay it still allowed it to do this same issues other then I could not get it to cycle with fob. Any new ideas.
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