07 Murano AWD Noise when braking/accelerating/hiccup/jerking

igbeserk · Oct 22, 2023

Hey All,

I'll try my best to explain the issue. I have a 07 Murano which I purchased a few months back (April) has roughly 230k miles on it. I've noticed when I'm driving it and it usually happens after driving it for a bit. There's a weird noise (sounds kind of like a dull or quiet horn sound), the noise comes and goes but mainly happens at lower speeds I'll hear it when I step on the gas, or step on the brake and at times the car will hesitate like a hiccup and at times it'll feel like it is resisting or that it's jerking. Not sure exactly what it is. But it happens when the car is in motion. I tried to record it but my camera could not pick up the audio essentially I was slowing down a bit then tapping the gas and I could make it make that sound essentially every time.

Anyway, I checked the CVT fluid, it doesn't look dark and doesn't really smell like it is burned, not sure when or if the fluid was changed. I have a Sentra with fewer miles than this Murano and that fluid was darker which does lead me to believe at some point it was changed. The level looks to be correct when the engine is running, last I checked when it was cold it seemed that the fluid was showing above where it should be as if it's overfilled.

Not sure what else I could indicate, but any guidance, common issues, or anything like that would be appreciated.

07 Murano SL AWD 230k miles.

MuranoSL2003 · Oct 22, 2023

230k is a lot of miles for a 1st gen Murano.They don't do well with that many miles generally, they become money pits...

It's likely the CVT is at or near its end of life if it's the original CVT.

You can check for error codes via the Android app CVTz50 app. Most code scanners will not read Nissan CVT error codes. You can tray a drain and fill. Ideally drop the pan and inspect for debris, clean the internal mesh filter too. There is also an external filter.

CVTz50 - Apps on Google Play

CVT diagnostics with ELM327 for Nissan-based vehicles

play.google.com

igbeserk · Oct 22, 2023

MuranoSL2003 said:
230k is a lot of miles for a 1st gen Murano.They don't do well with that many miles generally, they become money pits...

It's likely the CVT is at or near its end of life if it's the original CVT.

You can check for error codes via the Android app CVTz50 app. Most code scanners will not read Nissan CVT error codes. You can tray a drain and fill. Ideally drop the pan and inspect for debris, clean the internal mesh filter too. There is also an external filter.

CVTz50 - Apps on Google Play

CVT diagnostics with ELM327 for Nissan-based vehicles

play.google.com

I actually do have that app. I'll give it a shot to see if it lets me know anything. Thanks!

igbeserk · Oct 22, 2023

igbeserk said:
I actually do have that app. I'll give it a shot to see if it lets me know anything. Thanks!

no cvt dtc codes found. engine code P1615 but that makes sense, earlier i went to get a spare key made. the blanks i had didn't have the transponder in them so i'm guessing it tripped that code.

MuranoSL2003 · Oct 22, 2023

Glad there are no CVT error codes!

After rereading your initial post, I think it may be the engine air intake duct. Inspect it carefully for holes. It's a common problem with older Muranos, and can lead to poor low rpms performance. I guess if the leak it just right it may make a sound too, although I haven't heard of it mentioned this forum.

igbeserk · Oct 22, 2023

MuranoSL2003 said:
Glad there are no CVT error codes!

After rereading your initial post, I think it may be the engine air intake duct. Inspect it carefully for holes. It's a common problem with older Muranos, and can lead to poor low rpms performance. I guess if the leak it just right it may make a sound too, although I haven't heard of it mentioned this forum.

I'll look into it.

It's hard to describe the issue. Granted I didn't have this car new but doesn't seem like I get performance loss or any other real issues just the noise and the jerk/pull sensation here and there mainly at the lower rpm or perhaps that's the only time I can hear it. if I have anything else on like the radio or something I can't make out the noise but the noise does coincide with the hesitation/hiccup/jerk/pull that does happen at times.

jbarnett250 · Oct 23, 2023

Maybe try and watch the various charts you can pull up in the app. You should be able to see something that corresponds to the jerky behavior you're feeling. Things like rpm and torque produced must be sensing what you're feeling. And hopefully you can work your way toward things like slip and primary and secondary pressure that are related to the transmission to confirm if your cvt is in good working order or might be the source of your jerky feeling. Not sure if you can monitory anything about the awd commanded % in 1ste gen to see if the jerk is related to that. If you already have the app you have access to a bunch of info that should be able to point you in the general direction of your problem.

You can also get one of many free apps that will read more engine parameters than the cvtz50 app to debug in that direction. Like looking at accelerator pedal position sensors (multiple) and commanded and measured throttle position etc. If I were looking for a weird performance problem, I'd be poking at all those data PIDs and trying to see what's going on in the car.

igbeserk · Oct 28, 2023

jbarnett250 said:
You can also get one of many free apps that will read more engine parameters than the cvtz50 app to debug in that direction. Like looking at accelerator pedal position sensors (multiple) and commanded and measured throttle position etc. If I were looking for a weird performance problem, I'd be poking at all those data PIDs and trying to see what's going on in the car.

In terms of apps aside from cvtz50 what would be the recommendation? I guess maybe torque I'll check that out for pids and such. was driving today and using cvtz50 and the cvt fluid ran hot most of the time was stuck in traffic for a bit but yeah. attaching a screenshot. I'm guessing I probably should at least replace the ns2 fluid in there. Does the filter really need to be replaced because that would involve dropping the pan

I need coffee · Oct 28, 2023

In one of your snapshots, the coolant temperature hit 214 F. That's high. Cooling fans should come on at 208 F and have no problem bringing temperature back down to 199 F where they turn off. If engine is running hot then the transmission will too. I would start looking at the cooling system and functioning of the cooling fans.

igbeserk · Oct 29, 2023

I need coffee said:
In one of your snapshots, the coolant temperature hit 214 F. That's high. Cooling fans should come on at 208 F and have no problem bringing temperature back down to 199 F where they turn off. If engine is running hot then the transmission will too. I would start looking at the cooling system and functioning of the cooling fans.

Thanks, i'll look to see if the cooling fans kick in. I hope I did not mess anything up. Backstory: When I got this vehicle the original radiator's nipple to the reservoir was broken off (there was a screw in its place to keep the coolant in). I decided to order an OEM radiator but I decided to flush the coolant system a few times using one of those cleaners and distilled water. i flushed maybe 5-6 times and the water still looked dirty/bad. I put the new radiator in and filled that up. When trying to purge the system of the air I used one of those Listel funnel things but i noticed as time went on the water/coolant kept rising and rising and had to turn off the car before it shot out of the funnel. checked everything and kept trying and still it kept trying to come out of the funnel. Now, I'm not sure if there is a clog or anything but on my other cars when I do this it bleeds the system of air but the coolant never rises back up. I wasn't getting cool air so my mechanic friend recommended I drive the car onto a hill and rev the engine for a bit to see if I got cool air and I did. Driving it one day shortly after the temp gauge started to rise. Pulled the car over and discovered the hose to the thermostat housing was shooting out the coolant. the hose didn't burst it was just the coolant was bursting out of the seams. Got home pulled the thermostat housing and tested the thermostat seemed like it was working but decided to just buy a new OEM Nissan thermostat with housing. installed it and since then no more bursting out of the seams but I honestly can't tell if the coolant is passing through the system. The temp gauge doesn't rise it always stays right below the halfway mark the coolant in the reservoir will shift from full/close to full/ empty and repeat depending on when I look at it. perhaps the thermostat housing is still not opening and the coolant isn't circulating and just like with the Listel it has nowhere else to go but back up which would be the reservoir.

I need coffee · Oct 29, 2023

igbeserk said:
Thanks, i'll look to see if the cooling fans kick in. I hope I did not mess anything up. Backstory: When I got this vehicle the original radiator's nipple to the reservoir was broken off (there was a screw in its place to keep the coolant in). I decided to order an OEM radiator but I decided to flush the coolant system a few times using one of those cleaners and distilled water. i flushed maybe 5-6 times and the water still looked dirty/bad. I put the new radiator in and filled that up. When trying to purge the system of the air I used one of those Listel funnel things but i noticed as time went on the water/coolant kept rising and rising and had to turn off the car before it shot out of the funnel. checked everything and kept trying and still it kept trying to come out of the funnel. Now, I'm not sure if there is a clog or anything but on my other cars when I do this it bleeds the system of air but the coolant never rises back up. I wasn't getting cool air so my mechanic friend recommended I drive the car onto a hill and rev the engine for a bit to see if I got cool air and I did. Driving it one day shortly after the temp gauge started to rise. Pulled the car over and discovered the hose to the thermostat housing was shooting out the coolant. the hose didn't burst it was just the coolant was bursting out of the seams. Got home pulled the thermostat housing and tested the thermostat seemed like it was working but decided to just buy a new OEM Nissan thermostat with housing. installed it and since then no more bursting out of the seams but I honestly can't tell if the coolant is passing through the system. The temp gauge doesn't rise it always stays right below the halfway mark the coolant in the reservoir will shift from full/close to full/ empty and repeat depending on when I look at it. perhaps the thermostat housing is still not opening and the coolant isn't circulating and just like with the Listel it has nowhere else to go but back up which would be the reservoir.

You can test the cooling fans independently of everything else by running the IPDM Auto Active test (see PDF attachment).

The cooling systems in these cars are notoriously difficult to bleed, even with the funnel kits, so I would suggest trying again. Did you have the heat on when bleeding the last time? Heat should be on hottest temperature setting with fan on low while bleeding to make sure all the air pockets are bled out of the heater core.

One other thought--did the inside of the old radiator and/or hoses show evidence that the previous owner used some kind of "stop-leak" formula?

igbeserk · Oct 29, 2023

I need coffee said:
You can test the cooling fans independently of everything else by running the IPDM Auto Active test (see PDF attachment).

The cooling systems in these cars are notoriously difficult to bleed, even with the funnel kits, so I would suggest trying again. Did you have the heat on when bleeding the last time? Heat should be on hottest temperature setting with fan on low while bleeding to make sure all the air pockets are bled out of the heater core.

One other thought--did the inside of the old radiator and/or hoses show evidence that the previous owner used some kind of "stop-leak" formula?

thanks for the response, i'll check the pdf out and get back to you. yes, if i recall i set the heat all the way up, i don't recall it being the hottest and also this was in the summer when i did it but per guides online i did turn the heat up and fan all the way on for 10 minutes or so then turned off let it cool then dump, refill and repeat and then i just let it run as long as i could when it came to trying to bleed the air out.

igbeserk · Oct 29, 2023

Sigh, I don't think I can activate the test mode. I removed the stock head unit and have an aftermarket one with the Metra 99-7612. Which wouldn't have the preset #4 button or a volume knob. I can get the maintenance menu but not the diagnostic one. All I need to do is to check if the fan works when putting on the AC hot or cold it does come on. but I guess for this instance we want to make sure it's coming on when the cvt/engine is getting hot I take it? I guess it's the worst-case scenario if I need it. I can reinstall the original to test if there's no other way.

To my knowledge, I don't believe a stop leak was put into the system but hard to tell when I got it I could tell the coolant had exploded out but that makes sense since initially, the nipple on the radiator broke off.

Thinking about it inside the hoses it was pretty reddish in coloring, not sure if that was red coolant or a stop leak. but i can try doing another coolant flush not sure if i had the fans on low when I had the heat up high.

jbarnett250 · Oct 30, 2023

@igbeserk i like the Car Scanner ELM OBD2 app. It's free and can monitor quite a few data PIDs for the Murano but there are many apps that do the same thing. Like you might monitor the air flow volume and see if the data makes sense or it might indicate you have a leak in the intake tube if your metered air is strangely low. If your fuel trims are way off it might indicate air leaks as well.

You can chart those values like coolant temp and cvt temp in cvtz50 or car scanner so you can get an idea how they trend over time. If you press on one of the data values in the cvtz50 screen it will pop up a chart. Car scanner let's you data log and chart more than one variable at a time. cvtz50 says it can data log but I can't get it to work on my tablet. A chart might be useful to see how high your coolant temp peaks and then you SHOULD see the temp start to fall when the fans kick on and then eventually start to rise again when they turn off (i'll attach a chart i made today at the end of this post). How hot is it where you live? Right now where I live in the northeast US daytime temps are typically ~60F and even though my coolant temp hovers above 200F, my CVT temp is way lower and never gets near 200F. More like 160-170F.

Also, you can activate the auto active test without the screen interface. You read the instructions for the Active Test. Read the section for the Auto Active Test. This just uses the ignition switch and the driver door switch to activate the test. Would be good to be able to confirm your fans can operate and hi and low speeds to eliminate them as a source of your high coolant temps.

If you don't know when your cvt fluid was changed last, I would do that anyway just because it doesn't hurt and then you know its history and who knows maybe it will help with the jerky behavior.

igbeserk · Oct 30, 2023

jbarnett250 said:
@igbeserk i like the Car Scanner ELM OBD2 app. It's free and can monitor quite a few data PIDs for the Murano but there are many apps that do the same thing. Like you might monitor the air flow volume and see if the data makes sense or it might indicate you have a leak in the intake tube if your metered air is strangely low. If your fuel trims are way off it might indicate air leaks as well.

You can chart those values like coolant temp and cvt temp in cvtz50 or car scanner so you can get an idea how they trend over time. If you press on one of the data values in the cvtz50 screen it will pop up a chart. Car scanner let's you data log and chart more than one variable at a time. cvtz50 says it can data log but I can't get it to work on my tablet. A chart might be useful to see how high your coolant temp peaks and then you SHOULD see the temp start to fall when the fans kick on and then eventually start to rise again when they turn off (i'll attach a chart i made today at the end of this post). How hot is it where you live? Right now where I live in the northeast US daytime temps are typically ~60F and even though my coolant temp hovers above 200F, my CVT temp is way lower and never gets near 200F. More like 160-170F.

Also, you can activate the auto active test without the screen interface. You read the instructions for the Active Test. Read the section for the Auto Active Test. This just uses the ignition switch and the driver door switch to activate the test. Would be good to be able to confirm your fans can operate and hi and low speeds to eliminate them as a source of your high coolant temps.

If you don't know when your cvt fluid was changed last, I would do that anyway just because it doesn't hurt and then you know its history and who knows maybe it will help with the jerky behavior.

View attachment 57341

Awesome thanks for the response. i'll look at the document again maybe i missed the part about how to engage it. and yesterday it was up to 80 degrees F if i recall but lately, its been around 60-70F i'll try those settings and that app and those other recommendations. thanks! also just do a change i guess and not worry about the transmission filter etc? I actually have a few quarts laying around of the Aisin ns2 fluid guess i can use that.

igbeserk · Oct 30, 2023

Ugh, I'm an idiot sorry I really needed to read that pdf. ran the diagnostics, everything worked, coolant fans came on low and high, ac clutch clicked, wipers etc. so, all that seems to be good.

So, essentially next steps monitor the data, perhaps try to flush out the coolant again and also might as well replace the trans fluid and then reset the deterioration on it.

jbarnett250 · Oct 30, 2023

Just drive it and log some data. See what you can find that looks interesting when the jerky feeling occurs. Might not be related to coolant temps or transmission at all. Could still be air leaks or who knows what. More data will help you focus in the right direction and waste less time on stuff that might be good to do but isn't really related to your problem. Honestly that description of a horn sound sounds more like an air issue. Like if you pass air over a reed (or a crack in the fold of the intake tube) it can make a vibrating horn noise. I'd be looking at that intake tube if you haven't already before I messed with the coolant or the cvt fluid. It's free and relatively easy compared to those other jobs. That's just based on the description of the symptom sound and a little off the description of the driving behavior. That plastic is old and it lives in a terrible environment. We're lucky they last as long as they do.

igbeserk · Oct 31, 2023

I tried bleeding the coolant again, and after roughly 30 minutes or so it started to gush out. I put the Murano up on ramps and I just wanted to confirm so i should have the heat all the way up and the fan set to 1 and should it be AC on or AC off? I tried a few combinations towards the end i had the fans all the way up and I was revving at around 2000 rpms for a few minutes but prior to doing this my vents weren't blowing out hot air only mildly warm air until i started revving and then looking at the funnel i see it about to gush out so i turned off the engine. I guess there's still stuff from whatever was in the system like a reddish rust look. I used the prestone concentrated with distilled water 50/50. It should be a bright green color not this dirty reddish tint to it.

Pilgrim · Oct 31, 2023

igbeserk said:
I tried bleeding the coolant again, and after roughly 30 minutes or so it started to gush out. I put the Murano up on ramps and I just wanted to confirm so i should have the heat all the way up and the fan set to 1 and should it be AC on or AC off? I tried a few combinations towards the end i had the fans all the way up and I was revving at around 2000 rpms for a few minutes but prior to doing this my vents weren't blowing out hot air only mildly warm air until i started revving and then looking at the funnel i see it about to gush out so i turned off the engine. I guess there's still stuff from whatever was in the system like a reddish rust look. I used the prestone concentrated with distilled water 50/50. It should be a bright green color not this dirty reddish tint to it.

View attachment 57342

If that "reddish" tint is the previous coolant, I would totally purge that cooling system, flush it thoroughly and start over with green coolant. Mixing types of antifreeze is very bad news and can cause deposits which clog the radiator. There are different colored types of antifreeze for a reason, and some of them do not mix.

igbeserk · Oct 31, 2023

yea, seems like I'll have to change the coolant again. I've flushed it like 6-7 times months ago but that's not the color of the coolant i put in so yea. i'll give that a shot this weekend. thanks!

07 Murano AWD Noise when braking/accelerating/hiccup/jerking

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