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CVTs generally upshift as soon as they can, because they're programmed for gas mileage, not performance. From what you've written I'm not sure there's a problem.

Perhaps others will have pertinent comments.
 
I think you are correct and its just a different type of driving that I have to get used to. I've been very easy on the car letting it go thru the gears as it feels it needs to. I sometimes think the engine is too powerful for the transmission.
Thanks for the input.
 
The CVT that we were discussing which was serviced was in the 2013 juke. The one in my 2019 Murano has not yet been serviced at 23500 miles. I have noticed that it upshifts from a stop sign very quickly which then seems to me to put things in a strain unless I put more throttle to it then it will think about it a bit before eventually downshifting. I have asked the dealer about it and they said nothing was wrong with it after they did a road test. I also have noticed a lag of time when I shift from reverse to Drive that could be a problem if you needed to make that shift quickly. I have shifted to drive and applied the gas pedal before the transmission was ready once or twice before I realized that it was not ready and it has jerked itself a bit. That kind of reminds me of an improperly adjusted throttle position sensor but I don't think this car has anything like that. Also this is my first Murano so I'm just wondering if the transmission is like this in all of the models.
Agree with what Pilgrim mentioned above. Additionally, at times I have also observed the behavior you've mention. To counter it, I wait for a second before pressing gas when I put the car in gear, or switch from drive to reverse or vice versa. Also make sure the car comes to full stop/pause 1 sec before you switch from reverse to drive.
 
Thanks for your input. This will be the last post on this thread so let me ask this - I am taking the murano into the shop for the 25k service in 2 days and was wondering if there is anything I should ask them specifically to check that someone on this board may have noticed on their car? I just checked the software OTA and its up to date, I updated the maps I needed(which was a really cool tip I found on this board) and if there is anything else I would like to make sure it gets addressed in one of those rare times it goes to the dealer now. Thanks!
 
One comment on the time lag shifting from Drive to Reverse or vice versa: our '17 Subaru Forester takes a LONG time to accomplish this and this does actually concern me when backing into a busy street or something. The Murano is MUCH faster but not fast enough to "rock" the car in the snow like we did with prehistoric automatic transmissions in the last century.

It apparently takes the mice a while to reorient themselves on the little treadmill...and Subaru's mice are slower.
 
One bit of advice: one of the single hardest things on any automatic or CVT is to shift from reverse to drive (or vice versa) too quickly. It's a big impact on every component. I make an effort to wait one full beat in neutral before shifting from one to the other. That's one advantage of manual transmission over automatics.

As a many-decade manual driver, I think of gears in automatics and drive ratios in CVTs very much like gears. One of the fun things about my Murano was nailing the gas to the floor on on-ramps, watching the tach steady at 6000 RPM while the speedometer still moved up. Lots of fun and it clearly illustrated how the CVT's variable drive ratio sheaves work.
 
If your CVT is cold and you shift quickly from reverse to forward you may jerk forward suddenly. This will happen especially if you don't come to a complete stop. Any automatic transmission will usually not like this action. Many who have gotten stuck in snow or mud and try the rocking motion of foward and reverse without adding brake before shifting will shorten the transmissions life considerably.
 
If your CVT is cold and you shift quickly from reverse to forward you may jerk forward suddenly. This will happen especially if you don't come to a complete stop. Any automatic transmission will usually not like this action. Many who have gotten stuck in snow or mud and try the rocking motion of foward and reverse without adding brake before shifting will shorten the transmissions life considerably.
Yes, and that jerk tells you that you shifted too quickly. Most of us (myself included) are often guilty of not coming to a complete stop before engaging forward gear. That last 2-3 feet backing up is also when people start looking forward too early and back into things. :oops:
 
I don't realize we have to take off the oil pan and change internal strainer also when replacing the CVT oil. Is this applicable for Murano 2012 LE AWD?
I am about to change the CVT oil and the CVT oil filter. Is that enough or more is needed?
Your better off just cleaning that internal screen/filter with brake clean. The internal filters sold in stores and online are only for a first generation. They may be advertised as compatible with 2nd generation muranos, however, the pickup tube is too long and will dry/trash the transmission. I just clean mine.
 
Your better off just cleaning that internal screen/filter with brake clean. The internal filters sold in stores and online are only for a first generation. They may be advertised as compatible with 2nd generation muranos, however, the pickup tube is too long and will dry/trash the transmission. I just clean mine.
Thanks for the info. Do you need new gasket for the oil pan or reuse existing one?
BTW, if there is youtube video please please let me know.
 
The internal filters sold in stores and online are only for a first generation. They may be advertised as compatible with 2nd generation muranos, however, the pickup tube is too long and will dry/trash the transmission. I just clean mine.
Actually, even the ones for the 1st Gen can be too long, as I experienced with my 2003 a few years back. The mesh filter for the 3rd Gen is vastly different (refer to pics), and I think cleaning it would be pointless, since there's not the great exposure of the screen/mesh that you have with the 1st/2nd Gens. The 3rd Gen design also seems to have some kind of paper-fiber insert at the opening that faces the bottom of the CVT pan. Looks impossible to clean. Looking at the crumpled mesh within the top area, I'm not impressed with the quality standard of the part.
 

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I do stay away from cork material as well.
The gasket that came with the metal filter kit for my 2003 was rubberized, and it was folded up multiple times inside the box. I laid it out as flat as possible on a piece of cardboard in my furnace room and let heat and gravity do the rest. I did that the night before I actually planned on changing the filter. Worked great.
 
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When I searched nissan part for my 2012 murano I found the transmission oil pan and the gasket.
If there is nothing to clean inside the transmission oil pan then I would not even going to open it. Can anyone confirm there is something to clean there?
If I do then I need to buy the gasket shown below BUT the picture of the pan and gasket don't even match I believe. Kind of confusing. ;)
Image
 
Unless something changed, your CVT pan will have two magnets to catch metal particles that really should be checked and cleaned. My pan was also coated with sludge that needed to be wiped away so as not to contaminate the new CVT fluid and possibly clog the new filter. You can refer to my post about my 2003 magnets. https://www.nissanmurano.org/threads/is-there-a-filter-in-the-cvt-transmission.226715/post-770388

As far as I can tell, there are two types of bolt patterns for the CVT pan, so you need to be sure you count the bolt heads and get the correct one. Sometimes parts suppliers use a generic picture that's not like what you have. I got on my back beneath the CVT pan and drew a rough sketch and counted the bolt heads and alignment pin locations, then I used that when I went to the Autozone to compare with what I was buying. The first one they gave me was the wrong one. The second was correct.
 
When I searched nissan part for my 2012 murano I found the transmission oil pan and the gasket.
If there is nothing to clean inside the transmission oil pan then I would not even going to open it. Can anyone confirm there is something to clean there?
If I do then I need to buy the gasket shown below BUT the picture of the pan and gasket don't even match I believe. Kind of confusing. ;)
View attachment 57621
What Cryo said!

I would add that there is a screen in there. Pull the pan, pay very close attention to the length of bolts as you take them out. The two different length bolts have to go back in the same locations, if that makes sense.

Pull the screen down off the valve body,spray some brake cleen through the screen and just clean it.
 
so- I read through the FSM, and when looking at this exploded view, am I seeing this right? How does one measure out 8in pounds of torque? I noticed the three bolts into the mesh filter and also the gasket bolts are all the same spec.
The first value is Nm. The one you want is the 2nd value in parentheses (70 in-lbs).
 
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