[nitely]

...I meant tools....lol.

 

[Bobino]

Thanks Nitely.... I was at the store when you sent me your reply, it helped a lot ! I worked on my MO for a part of the evening... like I said before, I don't have a lot of mechanic set so it took me longer than normal. The good thing is I'm almost there ! ALL the nuts are removed. I'm stuck with the ABS sensor : Is there something I am missing here ??? I have like 1/4" to grab the plastic and pull the sensor out ? I will try to attach a picture to show you where I am. I just have NO grip.

Also, before starting the work, I just tried to shake the wheel to see if there was a loose : I would say like 1/4" !!! I mean the top of my tire was moving from the inside to the outside for around 1/4" Is this all because of the bearing or could it be something else ?

This site is so helpful, thank you so much once again !

 

[nitely]

Once the bolt is removed on that sensor RUST is the only thing holding it down. Try tapping the knuckle base where the sensor sits with your hammer to break off the rust. Don't force pulling it out. Take it slow and lots of penetrating fluid so you can save the expensive sensor. Wiggle it left to right little by little. You can use a pliers to hold on to the sensor bracket. But be very careful.

 

[Bobino]

I broked it.

Plan B. The sensor is still very tight into place, so I'm thinking of leaving it there and try to remove the hub by making a notch where the ABS sensor is. There is also another post where the guy beat the hub on the opposite side so the hub can come out someway... not sure I understand that way to do it.

Should have never started this...

 

[Bobino]

Well, the good news is that it only took me like 15 minutes to do that notch with a pair of long nose (thanks to the rust !). The hub came out after some punching, but not too bad.

I can easily feel the loose in the old bearing just by moving it with my hand...

Now I will check if I can install the new one without making a notch in the new hub.

 

[dogbone23]

How'd it come out?

 

[Bobino]

It actually had a good ending... I was able to put the new hub without making a notch in the new one. You need to be very careful not to push to hard on the sensor... you'll see, just fit the new hub in an angle. It's made to fit really tight, so because you are in an angle you might have to hit a little bit on the other side of the hub with your hammer (softly). That's what I did and it fited perfectly.

I now have 1000 miles on it and no problem at all, the noise is gone !

 

[Bobino]

We can see the notch I made in the old hub and the final result here.

 

[dogbone23]

looks like you just peeled part of the metal back so the old hub could be removed without removing the sensor first? Then once the old hub is out, it's much easier to push the sensor out without damaging it, then reinstall the new hub and slide the sensor back in.

Is there some kind of guide notch so that when you're positioning the new hub you don't get it seated down only to discover it's rotated 1/16" or 1/8" off, and the bolts and the sensor don't line up right?

 

[Bobino]

Yes, if you read my previous tread, you'll see that I broke a part of my sensor (the plastic part around the bolt) but the sensor was so much seized that I was able to leave it there. I didn't tried to remove it after I removed my hub (no reason because I was able to put the new hub WITHOUT removing the ABS sensor)

Recap: If you can peel part of the metal in the back of the hub(see my pic above) like I did because of the rust, you don't need to remove the sensor! Try it with long nose, it's easier than it looks, easy solution!

I don't understand your concern with the alignement... when you put the bolts, everything is aligned.

 

[dogbone23]

Ok, so the hub is not really a press fit in, the bolts when tightened pull it up into place? It's just a very tight fit and that's the reason it has to be driven out. I thought maybe there was some interference fit in addition to it being bolted on.

 

[RayH]

It turns out the trick I use on my Mitsubishi to remove stuck rotors works on the Murano and also works for removing the hub.

You want to buy a 19mm bolt that's 6cm long with a matching bolt.

To free a stuck rotor you need to remove the caliper and caliper mounting bracket. You then place the bolt through the top caliper mounting bracket hole and thread it through the matching nut you bought on the other side. The bolt will spin freely in the hole and you hold the nut with a wrench as you turn the bolt with a socket. The bolt will turn onto the rotor in a spot not touched by the pad and lever the rotor right off with a satisfying pop as you turn the socket.

To pull the hub I removed the cotter pin and loosened the castle nut until the face of the nut was above the axle it was threaded on. I then tapped it with a 3lb sledge to loosen the axle from the hub and removed the nut. Pushing the axle back a little gave me enough room in the back to get the top two hub bolts off with a socket and angle extension. The bottom two hub bolts were not a problem. Remove the ABS sensor and at this point corrosion should be the only thing holding the hub to the spindle. You now want to bolt the rotor back to the hub and use the same technique that was used to free the rotor to free the hub. Since the rotor is now bolted to the hub, the rotor will help pull it loose. Here's a pic of the nut and bolt setup through the caliper mount hole. I didn't go through the bottom caliper mount hole since it looked like it would contact the rotor where it could hurt the pad surface though if you're changing the rotor anyway you could use that hole also.

 

[Warhammer]

So I need some experienced someone to chime in here. What exactly is the failure mode of a bad bearing other than noise? Can it contribute to some front end vibrations? I've already swapped out inner/outer tie rods on both sides, already did all pads and rotors. I'm research other possibilities because I now have a very slight vibration that comes and goes. I know it's not attributed to the brakes any more because when I hit the brakes it's extremely smooth.

If I can understand how the bearings fail, then I can troubleshoot. I'll also need to know how to check if the bearings have enough play to cause some wobbling.

Thanks!

 

[RayH]

You can check bearing play by jacking the car so that the tire is off the ground, grabbing the tire at the 12 and 6 o'clock position and seeing if there's any play when alternating pushing and pulling on on either side of the tire.

My experience with the worn wheel bearing was that there was not enough wear to notice any wobble even after waiting almost a year after initially hearing the noise before changing the bearing.

After removing the old bearing I could feel that it would not turn smoothly when manually turning it by hand but there was no play in it that I could tell.

 

[Warhammer]

So...just to clarify...did you notice any play with the wheel when you grabbed it at 12 & 6 o'clock? Did you have any vibrations before that were resolved after you swapped out the bearing?

Appreciate your help! From what I'm seeing in the forum, most people get a noise of some kind indicating the bearing is bad. Others get that plus some vibrations in the steering wheel.

 

[RayH]

I couldn't feel any play on the wheel though that wouldn't rule out vibrations from the bearing feeding back to the steering wheel only when the tire is spinning. I didn't experience that but I would think that it would be constant if it was happening.

 

[DreamCar5683]

So I need some experienced someone to chime in here. What exactly is the failure mode of a bad bearing other than noise? Can it contribute to some front end vibrations? I've already swapped out inner/outer tie rods on both sides, already did all pads and rotors. I'm research other possibilities because I now have a very slight vibration that comes and goes. I know it's not attributed to the brakes any more because when I hit the brakes it's extremely smooth.

If I can understand how the bearings fail, then I can troubleshoot. I'll also need to know how to check if the bearings have enough play to cause some wobbling.

Thanks!

-The only failure i found was horrendous noise. However, shortly after replacing my bearing i think i need new struts: every bump is very hard and it feels like i have no 'shock absorption'. only shock.

i know that strus can contribute to vibration if they fail.

Good luck

 

[Warhammer]

I think I need to swap out my front driver side bearing. Makes a very low/muffled humming noise at lower speeds but goes away entirely at mid to higher speeds. Seems to only do it when it's first moving after sitting for a while. Humming noise does not go away if I turn the steering wheel or apply the brakes. Just did the front struts and pads/rotors are new.

My question is: Do I also need to swap out the front passenger bearing as well? Like shocks, you replace one side you got to replace the other?

I'm thinking about just swapping out the front drivers side only. But want to ping the other experts in the forum.

Thanks!

 

[dogbone23]

I just replaced the one that was making the noise. Took me a couple of months to figure out what the problem was. I initially thought it was noise from having just rotated the tires, but it didn't go away and stayed pretty much the same even when swerving from left to right, which usually makes the tires sound differently.

 

[Sunlitcopper200]

Chiming in here. Can you guys tell me the answer? Repair guy says I need to replace both bearing assemblies at the same time to avoid the two sides of front end riding at different heights and causing excessive tire wear. Passenger side bearing us definitely bad, but drivers side sounds fine. Feedback? Is it recommended that you do not replace only one bearing?

Let me know your experiences/thoughts...


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