[JeffD]

Hello all. Hoping I can get some direction here. My 2011 won’t turn over. Dash lights up, battery is good, and the brake switch has been replaced. I’ve connected a jump box to the battery just in case, as well.
I think I’ve checked the fuses that make sense, as well as the fusible link on the positive terminal.
Nothing. D.O.A.
I can’t locate the starter relay for this car-I’d check that next if I could. Never had a starter problem. Immediately before this issue arose, I hit the starter button and the engine cranked but didn’t fire. I hit the button to stop the cranking, and that was it.
When I searched the forum, I saw someone who had the exact same issue, including the hard brake pedal, but they never posted how they resolved it.
Anyone have some advice? Many thanks.

 

[chidog]

Make sure to move the shifter some maybe it could be a neutral safety switch problem. As a note always check the condition of the ground to the body and transmission or engine, 1 gen has ground to body and to the transmission. Starter relay usually on the starter as part of the solenoid.

 

[JeffD]

Make sure to move the shifter some maybe it could be a neutral safety switch problem. As a note always check the condition of the ground to the body and transmission or engine, 1 gen has ground to body and to the transmission. Starter relay usually on the starter as part of the solenoid.

Thank you! I did pull the shifter into neutral, still nothing. I checked every fuse in both locations, as well. Nothing blown.
when I hit ‘START’, the fuel pump ticks, all the lights on the dashboard come on, and what sounds like the radiator fan come on. Everything but the damn starter.

 

[I need coffee]

Thank you! I did pull the shifter into neutral, still nothing. I checked every fuse in both locations, as well. Nothing blown.
when I hit ‘START’, the fuel pump ticks, all the lights on the dashboard come on, and what sounds like the radiator fan come on. Everything but the damn starter.

Did you verify that there is battery voltage at the starter B terminal (hot at all times) and also at the S terminal while trying to start the engine?

 

[JeffD]

Did you verify that there is battery voltage at the starter B terminal (hot at all times) and also at the S terminal while trying to start the engine?

View attachment 54191

I haven’t done that yet, but I will tomorrow! So…..where the Hell is the starter in this car?!?!? 😂

 

[MuranoSL2003]

I haven’t done that yet, but I will tomorrow! So…..where the Hell is the starter in this car?!?!? 😂

You can find and download the service manuals from here:

How To Use NICOclub Factory Service Manuals

Here's a step-by-step guide to help find the correct Factory Service Manual for your Nissan, Infiniti, or Datsun - and a tutorial on how to use it!

www.nicoclub.com

 

[I need coffee]

I haven’t done that yet, but I will tomorrow! So…..where the Hell is the starter in this car?!?!? 😂

It's bolted to the transmission underneath the battery tray. It's probably easiest to access it from the side through the driver-side wheel well rather than from above (at least for testing purposes).

 

[I need coffee]

Actually, an even easier thing to do (and you won't get your hands dirty) is to check the output voltage to the starter wire right at the IPDM (Terminal 80--black wire). Same thing, there should be battery voltage at that terminal while foot on brake, transmission in P/N, and pushing the start button. If there is battery voltage at that terminal then the problem is either an open in the wire to the starter or a bad starter (more likely the latter). If you aren't seeing battery voltage at Terminal 80 under those conditions then there's something else wrong in the starter circuit so work your way back (see the "Starting System" file in the service manual MuranoSL2003 linked earlier).

 

[canuckguy]

Hello all. Hoping I can get some direction here. My 2011 won’t turn over. Dash lights up, battery is good, .....................

I bet it's not.

 

[I need coffee]

I bet it's not.

Well, when a poster gives us information we have to take it at face value. When he says the battery is "good" I take it to mean he's actually had it load-tested, but perhaps he can confirm this.

 

[JeffD]

Well, when a poster gives us information we have to take it at face value. When he says the battery is "good" I take it to mean he's actually had it load-tested, but perhaps he can confirm this.

Yes-Load tested. Good condition.

 

[Midnight malfunction]

Hello all. Hoping I can get some direction here. My 2011 won’t turn over. Dash lights up, battery is good, and the brake switch has been replaced. I’ve connected a jump box to the battery just in case, as well.
I think I’ve checked the fuses that make sense, as well as the fusible link on the positive terminal.
Nothing. D.O.A.
I can’t locate the starter relay for this car-I’d check that next if I could. Never had a starter problem. Immediately before this issue arose, I hit the starter button and the engine cranked but didn’t fire. I hit the button to stop the cranking, and that was it.
When I searched the forum, I saw someone who had the exact same issue, including the hard brake pedal, but they never posted how they resolved it.
Anyone have some advice? Many thanks.

Check the f

Thank you! I did pull the shifter into neutral, still nothing. I checked every fuse in both locations, as well. Nothing blown.
when I hit ‘START’, the fuel pump ticks, all the lights on the dashboard come on, and what sounds like the radiator fan come on. Everything but the damn starter.

Check the fusible link at the battery I had a turmel brake right there one time it was hard to see the brake for the cover on it just life up no the cover the top should life right up you see the link then

 

[Pilgrim]

Check the fusible link at the battery I had a turmel brake right there one time it was hard to see the brake for the cover on it just life up no the cover the top should life right up you see the link then

Can you try that again, more clearly? I don't understand.

 

[Midnight malfunction]

Can you try that again, more clearly? I don't understand.
[/QUOT on the top of the battery the positive post were the cable end lift tge cover off there's on line f

Can you try that again, more clearly? I don't understand.

I never been to nissan I lirn from trail and Era my x wife of 32 years tool a liking to that dam nissan and her the mother of my kids I git elected to her her keep one of 5 well 4 now runing in our family cleaning business there are really good trucks what I call them nissan said they are a truck and is handy were we from a lot if mountain ⛰ driving and a lot of our clients have mountain drive ways big cone GA and we have menny clients in there and the girls 👧 use the and all the time and they will carry all there cleaning supplies and tools yo do the cleaning job were it's just a regular clean or a move out clean or a move in clean and pursue washer go right in the back as well very good trucks and a safe ride fir the girl's rember I Saud family business yes them is my well mother if my kids and my daughters and now one granddaughter helping when nit on school I be one more next spring let me know if that was the prolbsm weight till it goes I safe mode well due to a misfire ok I be praying for your 2011 would you be interested I saving it .?

 

[JeffD]

I bet it's not.

Just for giggles, I replaced the battery today when I installed the new starter…no joy.
Anyone have any more suggestions?

 

[JeffD]

Had to leave the car over the holidays and subsequent Covid rolling through the family. I replaced the starter and battery today. I have bloody hands, a lighter wallet, and the same problem as before.
Trying to post a video, but the site doesn’t like my link. Here’s the sequence: in the car, key in, foot on brake (brake lights on), get the starter button/brake message ‘sometimes’. Hit the start button…hear the transmission interlock click. Dash lights up, four chimes, radio works…hit the button again, and the dash lights go out, doors unlock. No click from the starter, no joy whatsoever.

I’d love any and all advice on this.

 

[I need coffee]

Had to leave the car over the holidays and subsequent Covid rolling through the family. I replaced the starter and battery today. I have bloody hands, a lighter wallet, and the same problem as before.
Trying to post a video, but the site doesn’t like my link. Here’s the sequence: in the car, key in, foot on brake (brake lights on), get the starter button/brake message ‘sometimes’. Hit the start button…hear the transmission interlock click. Dash lights up, four chimes, radio works…hit the button again, and the dash lights go out, doors unlock. No click from the starter, no joy whatsoever.

I’d love any and all advice on this.

See post #8. Did you verify that you're getting battery voltage at IPDM Terminal 80 while trying to start the engine (...or at the starter S terminal)?

 

[JeffD]

See post #8. Did you verify that you're getting battery voltage at IPDM Terminal 80 while trying to start the engine (...or at the starter S terminal)?

Yes-power at the S terminal. I read an article somewhere that the anti theft system in 10/11 locks out the starter vs allowing it to crank without starting. Is there any chance I could have a fob issue? I briefly had a ‘No Key’ flash on the dash while the fob was inserted…

 

[I need coffee]

Yes-power at the S terminal. I read an article somewhere that the anti theft system in 10/11 locks out the starter vs allowing it to crank without starting. Is there any chance I could have a fob issue? I briefly had a ‘No Key’ flash on the dash while the fob was inserted…

If you're getting battery voltage at the S terminal when trying to start the engine then you've confirmed there is no problem with the starter control circuit--that is, the starter motor should get going if the starter is functional and it has power and ground.

Since you put a new starter in, let's assume for the time being that it's functional so I would suggest verifying battery voltage at the starter B terminal which should be hot at all times (see post #4). If that checks out then do voltage drop testing on the positive side (starter B terminal to battery +) and negative side (starter case to battery -) of the starter circuit while trying to start the engine--should be less than 0.4 volts for each (lower is better). If you have excessive voltage drop on the negative side, I'd suggest replacing the battery ground cable as there have been many electrical problems on these forums that can be traced back to a bad ground cable.

 

[chidog]

Check the ground cable and ground points real well.