Not that I am condoning or approving of what the dealer did or didn't do. However, I do not think they lied. This seems to just be a case of poor diagnosis and subpar service. It happens frequently and is a function of a dealership only getting paid a set amount for warranty work. Nissan may only pay a dealer for 30 minutes of time to diagnosis a noise like this, so the dealer tech does a quick once over and ends up missing something.

Now that the problem has been properly identified, it should be easy to get it repaired under warranty and should take very little time for the repair. At least the mystery seems to have been solved.

 

Not that I am condoning or approving of what the dealer did or didn't do. However, I do not think they lied. This seems to just be a case of poor diagnosis and subpar service. It happens frequently and is a function of a dealership only getting paid a set amount for warranty work. Nissan may only pay a dealer for 30 minutes of time to diagnosis a noise like this, so the dealer tech does a quick once over and ends up missing something.

Now that the problem has been properly identified, it should be easy to get it repaired under warranty and should take very little time for the repair. At least the mystery seems to have been solved.

In the end , they finally made the right diagnosis. Hopefully they put out a bulletin on this issue so others don't have to potentially receive the same results in the future.

 

So glad to have this info..thank you so much!!. I really like this car except for that clunk.
I will share this with the dealer when I finally get an appointment to replace my radio.

 

Hello all, final update, Nissan is buying back the Murano. It was a pleasure speaking with you all and I really hope this helps others that might be googling the issue like I did. Dont give up and dont EVER take the dealers answers as final. Trust your gut and prove your claim.

 

Just thought I would reply here for anyone else in our position. I took my 2019 Murano back to the dealer to have them check the noise again. I noticed that the sound was much worse when cold, so I dropped it off the night before when the temperature was in the teens. On the first drive the tech did not hear anything. I told them to try again or have another tech drive it. Good news is they heard it the second time around and ended up replacing the sway bar bushings. Same issue as peter2788. Finally the front end is quite. Below you can read the work order. I am currently outside of warranty (41,000 mi), but there was no charge since I brought this to their attention a couple times when inside of my warranty.
Hope this helps the forum.

 

Has anyone actually changed them themselves, I can get to all bolts except passenger front, socket will not go down all way.

 

Yes, it looks like the bolt on the left can be accessed with a wrench - the one on the right might require a wrench with an offset in the handle. I see two possibilities:

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/wrenches/combination-wrenches-wrench-sets/metric/professional-s-shaped-metric-wrench-set-5-piece-56773.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/wrenches/combination-wrenches-wrench-sets/metric/8-piece-metric-offset-box-wrench-set-32042.html

Another possibility might be to get a socket from a pawn shop and grind off enough of the socket to get it on the bolt head...but some measuring would be required.

There's a way to do it. You might have to get a factory service manual and see if other parts have to be removed to get at one or both.

 

The longer socket presses against the side of the Pinion bar I believe is what is right next to it so the socket sits on and angle and does not go down fully onto the bolt allowing the socket to slip.

 

What about trying an open end wrench and reaching from the front and under the rack/pinion. You probably will only get small turns on the bolt until its losse enough the get out by hand.

 

I think what @Pilgrim said is sound advice. You may need to remove other parts or use a specially made socket to get it out. If you use a wrench to remove it you won't be able to torque that bolt during re-installation. Some things should be torqued to spec.

 

That's a good point about torque. However, then it comes to bolts like those I suspect the correct torque can be achieved with the "tighten the bejeezuz out of it" approach. From the view provided, I don't think there's a way to get a torque wrench on either one without a substantial teardown.

 

I wonder if there's a rubber plug along that floorboard area that you remove to gain access to the bolt.

 

Got some stubby impact sockets and they were just small enough to allow me to loosen the front one off ok. Thanks for all the replies you have helped me incredibly. Looking at the old ones the dealer may have been looking for some extra cash because they don't look bas at all and the vehicle only has 80,000 km or 48.000 miles. No signs of hardening or wear, but for 60 bucks and a few new tools and all your help its done. Just loosened the front two bolts a bit, removed the rears and slid bar back, popped off brackets and removed the bushings, cleaned slipped on new ones and slid the brackets back forward, only had to remove 2 tires none of the other mentioned work got fronts from wheel well and rears from under.
Link to Stubbies I purchased

MIXPOWER 3/8" Drive Low Profile Stubby Impact Socket Set with Storage Rails, 14-Piece, 6 Point, 6-19mm, CR-V, Metric, Nano Impact Socket Set, Metric - Amazon Canada

MIXPOWER 3/8" Drive Low Profile Stubby Impact Socket Set with Storage Rails, 14-Piece, 6 Point, 6-19mm, CR-V, Metric, Nano Impact Socket Set in Metric.

www.amazon.ca

Also A necessity (flex head a must)

3/8 in. dr Extra-Long Flex-Head Ratchet

 

Got some stubby impact sockets and they were just small enough to allow me to loosen the front one off ok. Thanks for all the replies you have helped me incredibly. Looking at the old ones the dealer may have been looking for some extra cash because they don't look bas at all and the vehicle only has 80,000 km or 48.000 miles. No signs of hardening or wear, but for 60 bucks and a few new tools and all your help its done. Just loosened the front two bolts a bit, removed the rears and slid bar back, popped off brackets and removed the bushings, cleaned slipped on new ones and slid the brackets back forward, only had to remove 2 tires none of the other mentioned work got fronts from wheel well and rears from under.
Link to Stubbies I purchased

MIXPOWER 3/8" Drive Low Profile Stubby Impact Socket Set with Storage Rails, 14-Piece, 6 Point, 6-19mm, CR-V, Metric, Nano Impact Socket Set, Metric - Amazon Canada

MIXPOWER 3/8" Drive Low Profile Stubby Impact Socket Set with Storage Rails, 14-Piece, 6 Point, 6-19mm, CR-V, Metric, Nano Impact Socket Set in Metric.

www.amazon.ca

Oh good! I didnt know you only had 48k miles on it. I didnt start seeing wear til like 70-80k. Did you have a clunking noise or anything?

Also thanks for the list of tools needed. Ill be sure to refer back to it.

 

Here are theoriginals, cant see how they deemed they were level 2 wear. Not even sure what level 2 wear id as there was no movement in the bar when tested and they are in very good shape. No cracking or rubber tear and the centers are good.

 

Those bushings look great to me. What problems are you having? If clunking, maybe it's a control arm/subframe bushing or bad/loose transmission/motor mount. If clicking, I'd check the sway bar links.