Doing fine until wife went to grocery store. Came out to leave and when push button to start, dash says 'incorrect key ID', or 'intelligent key ID' something to that effect. Used extra fob guessing battery in fob was dead, but not the case. Tried to use jumper cables to start, but to no avail. Any further suggestions?
parsonbw
Maybe both FOB batteries are weak, but I doubt it. You usually get a warning in the Information Display when they're getting low.
Try touching the Nissan-logo-side tip of the FOB against the ignition start button (with the brake pedal depressed) to see if that will start the car.
That's the only simple thing. Maybe a dead car battery that even jumping won't help because the 3rd Gen requires a lot of power to start and keep it running.
Also make sure the shifter lever is fully placed in Park.
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Try touching the Nissan-logo-side tip of the FOB against the ignition start button (with the brake pedal depressed) to see if that will start the car.
That's the only simple thing. Maybe a dead car battery that even jumping won't help because the 3rd Gen requires a lot of power to start and keep it running.
Also make sure the shifter lever is fully placed in Park.
Thanks Cryogenix1 for the reply. I've covered those bases. Went back to store again and tried the pressing the fob after adding a new battery.. No go. I wanted to get it home over the weekend but I'll have to wait until Monday. Mechanics need their time off too. The lights work, the door locks, but it say it doesn't recognize the key. Have not change fobs since purchase in January '25. I'm 79 yrs old and on fixed income and was hoping it was the fob battery; not so.
I'm just praying it will not cost much to repair. Wife's car and I don't know about the tech and computer stuff.
I do appreciate your thoughts.
I'm just praying it will not cost much to repair. Wife's car and I don't know about the tech and computer stuff.
I do appreciate your thoughts.
Did you try pushing the alarm button on the FOB to see if that would trigger the car to alert? Maybe the act of turning the alarm on and then off might trigger something to recognize the key and allow the car to start. It's possible the security system thinks the car was stolen and has immobilized it. Some things might still work but the car likely won't start until something is reset and satisfied. The act of trying to jumpstart a car that's been locked down for security reasons might also not work.
I believe the lighted ring around the ignition start button is the immobilizer sensor. When you unlock the car doors with the FOB does that ring illuminate?
How long (or how many miles) was your drive to the store from the last place the car was last stopped and started? I believe the security system allows a stolen car to be driven for a certain time/distance before killing everything. Maybe if it allows for the car to drive one mile, and you drove 3/4 to 1 mile before shutting it off, the car is now immobilized and that's why you can't start it.
But I think you may have a battery/charging problem that suddenly appeared without triggering a warning light, and jumping a dead battery will likely not allow the car to start. A new battery or a fully charged battery should be able to help figure things out. Perhaps something was left on in the car when you last stopped/parked and it drained the battery enough to create problems.
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I believe the lighted ring around the ignition start button is the immobilizer sensor. When you unlock the car doors with the FOB does that ring illuminate?
How long (or how many miles) was your drive to the store from the last place the car was last stopped and started? I believe the security system allows a stolen car to be driven for a certain time/distance before killing everything. Maybe if it allows for the car to drive one mile, and you drove 3/4 to 1 mile before shutting it off, the car is now immobilized and that's why you can't start it.
But I think you may have a battery/charging problem that suddenly appeared without triggering a warning light, and jumping a dead battery will likely not allow the car to start. A new battery or a fully charged battery should be able to help figure things out. Perhaps something was left on in the car when you last stopped/parked and it drained the battery enough to create problems.
Cryo,, I'm going back this afternoon to try and use a charger one last time before having it towed to shop.
I only live five miles from home, and it's my wife's car. I never get in it until something happens. She did tell
me this morning that the 'key light' had come on several times before. I'm thinking charging it a little longer
might do the trick. I'll see this afternoon after church and report back.
Sometimes when battery is bad the dash can do crazy things. It only has around 29,000 miles. I did not try
the alarm button, but will when I go back. Thanks again.
I only live five miles from home, and it's my wife's car. I never get in it until something happens. She did tell
me this morning that the 'key light' had come on several times before. I'm thinking charging it a little longer
might do the trick. I'll see this afternoon after church and report back.
Sometimes when battery is bad the dash can do crazy things. It only has around 29,000 miles. I did not try
the alarm button, but will when I go back. Thanks again.
On my last post I had started off about the FOB battery, then re-read your post about not changing FOBs since buying the car this year, and felt the battery should still be good. Then just now I remembered you have a 2020.
The battery in my main FOB died after only a few years of use, so it's likely yours could be dead - probably is since you said your wife mentioned the "key light" came on a few times.
What I was going to mention earlier when I responded incorrectly to your post (having first thought you'd last changed the FOB battery in Jan/2025) was that it's been addressed that the battery can be improperly seated and not have a prong contact the battery when snapping the two halves of the FOB together. So if you did change or do change the FOB battery, be sure to carefully snap it back together so a prong doesn't get bent or squished out of place.
It's also been mentioned that even new batteries can provide incorrect voltage that would prevent the FOB from working and being identified. However, manually pressing the FOB end to the ignition button should have made the car start, which is why I was leaning more towards the actual car battery being the problem. That, and that the other FOB also wouldn't work seems a bit unlikely.
If you can let the car battery charge a bit before trying to jump start it, that would help. I know from experience that even with my 2003 it didn't want to start easily when the battery was nearly drained, even when being jumped.
I would also try that trick about using the physical key (the pulls out of the FOB using the release button on the back) to lock and unlock the driver's front door, then press the start button without pressing the brake pedal and let it sit for 30 seconds before then trying to start the engine. My guess is that it does something to satisfy any immobilizer sensor issue and allows time for things to reset once the ignition system is powered on. The trick doesn't say which position the start button needs to be in (one press or two) but I'd go with two.
In case you need it, here's my post about accessing the key and opening the FOB.
And as a last idea... months ago I recall seeing an episode of "Just Rolled In" on Youtube where the problem was that the car wouldn't start regularly. I believe the issue was some bulky, decorative thing (or a magnetic decorative ring) that was placed around the start button that disrupted the key chip's ability to be recognized consistently. Is there any "bling" near the start button in your car (or attached to the FOB's keychain/ring) that might be causng interference?
The battery in my main FOB died after only a few years of use, so it's likely yours could be dead - probably is since you said your wife mentioned the "key light" came on a few times.
What I was going to mention earlier when I responded incorrectly to your post (having first thought you'd last changed the FOB battery in Jan/2025) was that it's been addressed that the battery can be improperly seated and not have a prong contact the battery when snapping the two halves of the FOB together. So if you did change or do change the FOB battery, be sure to carefully snap it back together so a prong doesn't get bent or squished out of place.It's also been mentioned that even new batteries can provide incorrect voltage that would prevent the FOB from working and being identified. However, manually pressing the FOB end to the ignition button should have made the car start, which is why I was leaning more towards the actual car battery being the problem. That, and that the other FOB also wouldn't work seems a bit unlikely.
If you can let the car battery charge a bit before trying to jump start it, that would help. I know from experience that even with my 2003 it didn't want to start easily when the battery was nearly drained, even when being jumped.
I would also try that trick about using the physical key (the pulls out of the FOB using the release button on the back) to lock and unlock the driver's front door, then press the start button without pressing the brake pedal and let it sit for 30 seconds before then trying to start the engine. My guess is that it does something to satisfy any immobilizer sensor issue and allows time for things to reset once the ignition system is powered on. The trick doesn't say which position the start button needs to be in (one press or two) but I'd go with two.
In case you need it, here's my post about accessing the key and opening the FOB.
And as a last idea... months ago I recall seeing an episode of "Just Rolled In" on Youtube where the problem was that the car wouldn't start regularly. I believe the issue was some bulky, decorative thing (or a magnetic decorative ring) that was placed around the start button that disrupted the key chip's ability to be recognized consistently. Is there any "bling" near the start button in your car (or attached to the FOB's keychain/ring) that might be causng interference?
Just a follow up: Went back after church and put battery cables on it and let it sit for 2 minutes running
at 1000rpms on my car. Then wife's car started right up!! (answer to prayer as it was 98 degrees). I appreciate the input as I was not sure if battery or bigger problem. The first time I put charging cables on it I didn't let it charge enough. The battery was graveyard dead. I noticed that it was a Nissan battery, probably the one that was on it new. Anyway I will install a new one in the morning. Any thoughts about the best battery for the Murano Platinum? It has all kinds of gadgets on it, so do I need a stronger battery to run all the gizmos, or the factory battery? Cryogenix1, I thank you for your time.
at 1000rpms on my car. Then wife's car started right up!! (answer to prayer as it was 98 degrees). I appreciate the input as I was not sure if battery or bigger problem. The first time I put charging cables on it I didn't let it charge enough. The battery was graveyard dead. I noticed that it was a Nissan battery, probably the one that was on it new. Anyway I will install a new one in the morning. Any thoughts about the best battery for the Murano Platinum? It has all kinds of gadgets on it, so do I need a stronger battery to run all the gizmos, or the factory battery? Cryogenix1, I thank you for your time.
I always recommend getting the most powerful battery that will fit in the car. I consider the OEM battery to be the minimum acceptable power, not the ideal.
Lingering in my mind is the obvious question of what the actual wording of the message was your wife saw. And also what caused the battery to drain out in the first place. Parasitic drain, failing alternator, aging battery, a wire nibbler under the hood at night...
You might want to have a place you trust test the charging system to make sure everything is fine before going much further, or else you could end up buying a new battery that won't be replenished because the alternator or something else is causing a problem.
Please let us know how things go and what you find. Good luck.
And also what caused the battery to drain out in the first place. Parasitic drain, failing alternator, aging battery, a wire nibbler under the hood at night...You might want to have a place you trust test the charging system to make sure everything is fine before going much further, or else you could end up buying a new battery that won't be replenished because the alternator or something else is causing a problem.
Please let us know how things go and what you find. Good luck.
I have had car, not fob, battery checked by shop. Was bad but had been in the car since September 2020, so it had done it's job. It was the factory installed Nissan/Renault brand. I replaced it with a Duralast Platinum AGM four year. Upon startup, everything reset to former settings. So I should be good to go. I appreciate all the thoughts to help me narrow down the problem. If further issues, I will give an update. Thanks again.
This is a great thread and very timely for me. My wife's 2020 Platinum has 32k on it, but it has the original OEM battery. I have AAA so if she gets stuck she can call AAA. However, I will go ahead and buy a new battery to be proactive. I will do my research on batteries (always do). If others who already replaced their OEM battery on the Murano have advice/recommendations on which one is best for the Murano, please let me know.
Regarding the key fob battery, I bought some cheap batteries off Amazon as replacements for the ones in her key fobs. I quickly learned that cheap batteries will not work well for this application. I went back to Duacells in both fobs.
Regarding the key fob battery, I bought some cheap batteries off Amazon as replacements for the ones in her key fobs. I quickly learned that cheap batteries will not work well for this application. I went back to Duacells in both fobs.
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