I don't think I have any good advice. If it were me I'd keep driving it and logging some data to see if there is something that can quantify what's going on in the transmission once you fix the misfire. Maybe take it easy on it and don't push it hard up big hills and long hot highway drives until you figure something out. But if you log data and it looks like it's slipping a little all the time even under relatively light duty, I wouldn't keep driving it like that if you intend to try and do something to repair it. I think we had one poster that kept driving when there were signs of trouble and they just kept going till it quit completely. That strategy is ok if you don't intend to try and fix it. But if there is something small wrong now that might be remedied if repaired soon, it would be better to figure it out and repair it rather than keep going until the small thing damages big things.

So just some random thinking not specifically directed at your situation..... If you logged data that says it only slips when hot, you could add an external cooler and modify your driving behavior to limit temps. If you logged data that could possibly point to inexpensive-ish repairs in the CVT that you might be able to diy, it might be worth rolling the dice and risking $100 and couple hours of your time to swap the stepper motor etc. Beyond that, I think most of the repairs get complex and not very diy-friendly but I haven't done them so just based on reading here. Then you have to do the research to see what's available in your area as far as repair or replacement options and weigh that against what you think the car's worth. I'm not sure what you'll find as far as used/new/refurb options. That calculation sucks for cars with reasonable residual values because sometimes the answer is to get rid of the vehicle.

The calculation for me would be super simple if I ran into that kind of situation with my rig (2010 2nd gen). I'd use it as my local commuter until it didn't go any more and then walk away from it because mine's a beater that I bought for teenagers to learn to drive and the most valuable thing on it at the moment is the $1000 worth of tires I put on it.

Good luck and let us know what you end up doing.

 

FWIW

 

I don't think I have any good advice. If it were me I'd keep driving it and logging some data to see if there is something that can quantify what's going on in the transmission once you fix the misfire. Maybe take it easy on it and don't push it hard up big hills and long hot highway drives until you figure something out. But if you log data and it looks like it's slipping a little all the time even under relatively light duty, I wouldn't keep driving it like that if you intend to try and do something to repair it. I think we had one poster that kept driving when there were signs of trouble and they just kept going till it quit completely. That strategy is ok if you don't intend to try and fix it. But if there is something small wrong now that might be remedied if repaired soon, it would be better to figure it out and repair it rather than keep going until the small thing damages big things.

So just some random thinking not specifically directed at your situation..... If you logged data that says it only slips when hot, you could add an external cooler and modify your driving behavior to limit temps. If you logged data that could possibly point to inexpensive-ish repairs in the CVT that you might be able to diy, it might be worth rolling the dice and risking $100 and couple hours of your time to swap the stepper motor etc. Beyond that, I think most of the repairs get complex and not very diy-friendly but I haven't done them so just based on reading here. Then you have to do the research to see what's available in your area as far as repair or replacement options and weigh that against what you think the car's worth. I'm not sure what you'll find as far as used/new/refurb options. That calculation sucks for cars with reasonable residual values because sometimes the answer is to get rid of the vehicle.

The calculation for me would be super simple if I ran into that kind of situation with my rig (2010 2nd gen). I'd use it as my local commuter until it didn't go any more and then walk away from it because mine's a beater that I bought for teenagers to learn to drive and the most valuable thing on it at the moment is the $1000 worth of tires I put on it.

Good luck and let us know what you end up doing.

I don't think I have any good advice. If it were me I'd keep driving it and logging some data to see if there is something that can quantify what's going on in the transmission once you fix the misfire. Maybe take it easy on it and don't push it hard up big hills and long hot highway drives until you figure something out. But if you log data and it looks like it's slipping a little all the time even under relatively light duty, I wouldn't keep driving it like that if you intend to try and do something to repair it. I think we had one poster that kept driving when there were signs of trouble and they just kept going till it quit completely. That strategy is ok if you don't intend to try and fix it. But if there is something small wrong now that might be remedied if repaired soon, it would be better to figure it out and repair it rather than keep going until the small thing damages big things.

So just some random thinking not specifically directed at your situation..... If you logged data that says it only slips when hot, you could add an external cooler and modify your driving behavior to limit temps. If you logged data that could possibly point to inexpensive-ish repairs in the CVT that you might be able to diy, it might be worth rolling the dice and risking $100 and couple hours of your time to swap the stepper motor etc. Beyond that, I think most of the repairs get complex and not very diy-friendly but I haven't done them so just based on reading here. Then you have to do the research to see what's available in your area as far as repair or replacement options and weigh that against what you think the car's worth. I'm not sure what you'll find as far as used/new/refurb options. That calculation sucks for cars with reasonable residual values because sometimes the answer is to get rid of the vehicle.

The calculation for me would be super simple if I ran into that kind of situation with my rig (2010 2nd gen). I'd use it as my local commuter until it didn't go any more and then walk away from it because mine's a beater that I bought for teenagers to learn to drive and the most valuable thing on it at the moment is the $1000 worth of tires I put on it.

Good luck and let us know what you end up doing.

Ha

I don't think I have any good advice. If it were me I'd keep driving it and logging some data to see if there is something that can quantify what's going on in the transmission once you fix the misfire. Maybe take it easy on it and don't push it hard up big hills and long hot highway drives until you figure something out. But if you log data and it looks like it's slipping a little all the time even under relatively light duty, I wouldn't keep driving it like that if you intend to try and do something to repair it. I think we had one poster that kept driving when there were signs of trouble and they just kept going till it quit completely. That strategy is ok if you don't intend to try and fix it. But if there is something small wrong now that might be remedied if repaired soon, it would be better to figure it out and repair it rather than keep going until the small thing damages big things.

So just some random thinking not specifically directed at your situation..... If you logged data that says it only slips when hot, you could add an external cooler and modify your driving behavior to limit temps. If you logged data that could possibly point to inexpensive-ish repairs in the CVT that you might be able to diy, it might be worth rolling the dice and risking $100 and couple hours of your time to swap the stepper motor etc. Beyond that, I think most of the repairs get complex and not very diy-friendly but I haven't done them so just based on reading here. Then you have to do the research to see what's available in your area as far as repair or replacement options and weigh that against what you think the car's worth. I'm not sure what you'll find as far as used/new/refurb options. That calculation sucks for cars with reasonable residual values because sometimes the answer is to get rid of the vehicle.

The calculation for me would be super simple if I ran into that kind of situation with my rig (2010 2nd gen). I'd use it as my local commuter until it didn't go any more and then walk away from it because mine's a beater that I bought for teenagers to learn to drive and the most valuable thing on it at the moment is the $1000 worth of tires I put on it.

Good luck and let us know what you end up doing.

Thank you for the input.

 

I'd be Leary of that $4000. plus transmission. Warranty? Most always to keep a warranty for something like that a qualified shop has to do the install. And that ups the cost another maybe $3000.
So finding some one local or even the dealer could likely beat that deal, and maybe end up with a warranty that hopefully would work. I'd check their reviews real well before diving in.

 

Given the age and mileage, I'm scrapping the replacement path and will be installing an auxiliary transmission cooler. Any suggestions from experienced guys would be awesome.

 

...we experience what I would call "severe" slippage when accelerating up and over TN hills....Obviously (at least to me) the transmission issue is unrelated to misfire on cyl 3.

The "slippage" you believe you were experiencing may well be directly related to the misfire event. The ECM will shut down the fuel injector for the misfiring cylinder if it detects repeated misfiring so the engine would effectively be loosing ~17% of its power for each cylinder lost. And when the cylinder is shut down, the ECM also disables closed loop fuel control, cruise control, and probably limits other things as well to protect the catalytic converters so the engine just won't run well at all. But, before this happens the repeated intermittent misfiring could feel like some kind of severe transmission problem because the power loss would be intermittent as well (i.e. 100%-->83%-->100% etc.). When an ignition coil starts to go bad, it may operate normally under light load, but start to misfire under heavy load (e.g. going up a hill). If the CVT push belt was actually slipping then I would expect DTCs to be thrown for things like low pressure or pressure solenoid faults.

My point is, you need to fix the misfire problem before making any determination that there's a problem with the transmission.

P.S. Trans cooler is never a bad idea, IMO, but if you live in a hilly/mountainous area then disabling engine braking (e.g. with the CVTz50 app) can significantly reduce average CVT oil temperatures with little expense and effort--you would just have to use the brakes more often when going downhill, but brake pads are a lot cheaper to replace than a transmission.

 

The "slippage" you believe you were experiencing may well be directly related to the misfire event. The ECM will shut down the fuel injector for the misfiring cylinder if it detects repeated misfiring so the engine would effectively be loosing ~17% of its power for each cylinder lost. And when the cylinder is shut down, the ECM also disables open loop fuel control, cruise control, and probably limits other things as well to protect the catalytic converters so the engine just won't run well at all. But, before this happens the repeated intermittent misfiring could feel like some kind of severe transmission problem because the power loss would be intermittent as well (i.e. 100%-->83%-->100% etc.). When an ignition coil starts to go bad, it may operate normally under light load, but start to misfire under heavy load (e.g. going up a hill). If the CVT push belt was actually slipping then I would expect DTCs to be thrown for things like low pressure or pressure solenoid faults.

My point is, you need to fix the misfire problem before making any determination that there's a problem with the transmission.

P.S. Trans cooler is never a bad idea, IMO, but if you live in a hilly/mountainous area then disabling engine braking (e.g. with the CVTz50 app) can significantly reduce average CVT oil temperatures with little expense and effort--you would just have to use the brakes more often when going downhill, but brake pads are a lot cheaper to replace than a transmission.

Thank you! You provided the clearest information I've ever heard. I don't have the app (iphone user) and live in central MI. I did replace the misfiring cylinder coil as well as all the plugs. I will keep updating this thread. Thanks again.

 

Hello,I really wanted to said that the transmission work wonders if taking care of.like people just don't consider changing the transmission filter and fluid is beyond me!

 

How many quarts of fluid does the tranny hold, and how much is used for a drain and fill?

 

That is a very common high mileage CVT issue. Transmission failure is imminent. FOOD FOR THOUGHT: The Nissan Pathfinder V6 engine are identical to the Murano V6 engine. The Pathfinder has a a 6 or 9 speed automatic transmission (depending on year) that is bulletproof and will bolt onto the Murano engine. I have thought many times that changing a Murano CVT transmission to a Pathfinder standard transmission shouldn't be that difficult. It would require replacing the transmission control computer module and/or a transmission wiring harness modificationt replacement. Should be able to get a low mileage Pathfinder transmission, control module, and wiring haness from a reputable auto-salvage for a reasonable price. A CVT rebuild from an independent transmission company runs $2K+ and there is not much of a warranty. (12 months) A Nissan rebuilt unit is $3-$5K. If you're wise, you will get the transmission rebuilt or replaced now before it stalls in traffic and causes an accident. Good luck! Good luck.

 

That's not a bad argument, @jimmorris, but.....

"Shouldn't be that difficult" sometimes is correct, but often leads to a disabled vehicle with parts strewn all about. And there's the challenge of electronic control for the transmission, so don't forget that.

Tackle it only if you are a well experienced mechanic with adequate facilities and a well-equipped tool chest. You will need a protected garage area, floor jacks, ability to rent and use a lift. This is NOT trivial, and it will take time and work if it's practical at all.

Dropping into nostalgia, I reflect that this is a whole different universe than dropping a 409 into a '64 Chevy that came with a 283. Transverse engines are a different can of worms.

 

Just because it bolt onto the engine does not mean it will fit. The CVT's form factor is quite a bit more compact than a standard transmission I believe...

 

Short version: purchased in fall of 2021 with 120k miles. No record of transmission fluid ever being changed. EVER. Drove it until May of this year until judder became more prominent in daily driving. Discussed with my trusted mechanic and had them drain and fill transmission fluid. Immediate improvement in low-speed juddering and overall performance.

I've driven it about 6k miles since D&F and recently noticed a very rough shift from 7th when passing at highway speeds. Didn't concern me too much because it only occurred one time while I was driving. This weekend we drove from MI to Nashville with no noticeable transmission issues. However, heading up 65N out of Nashville, we experience what I would call "severe" slippage when accelerating up and over TN hills. Discovered manual mode and started driving in 6th at highway speeds eliminated all slipping. (2500 RPMs at 78 MPH vs 1800 when in 7th) After fuel stop in central Indiana, I got a flashing CEL that abruptly ended our trip. LSS, we got it home, checked my BlueDriver OBD2 scan and have a P0303 code. Will be replacing plugs and coils to resolve engine misfire. View attachment 60790

Obviously (at least to me) the transmission issue is unrelated to misfire on cyl 3. I'm planning to replace plugs and coils since they are original. However, that won't resolve my trans issue. So, I'm now at the decision point regarding transmission. I'm considering putting the money into replacing the transmission. What are my best options? New? Refurbished? Used with lower mileage?


Thanks for your input and recommendations.
@jbarnett250 @Cryogenix1

Just to add to the quirks of these cars (I have the 2019 Platinum), I had a very unsettling experience about an hour after filing the gas tank and heading home on a highway. Out of nowhere and under load (going up a hill with cruise control) the car suddenly misfired really badly, the rev counter went crazy and I had to slow right down and drive on very light throttle. I was on a highway three hours under normal conditions to the next stop. It took me five hours of misfiring, jerking, crazy transmission behaviors and a lot of stress to finally limp into a Nissan service center. (Why didn’t I just pull over and call for help? This is Mexico, my Spanish sucks and I doubt the bush mechanics had ever seen a Murano! And leaving the car on the side of the road as I went looking for help would have been an even worse idea.)

Nissan put the car on the lift as there was “grinding” noise from the rear - the fuel pump. Their diagnostics also showed CVT fault codes. Groan…

We decided to first consider poor gas (water in the gas - I live in Mexico) which they felt could explain the fuel pump grinding. They were correct. They reloaded /reset the CVT program and as I had virtually used a full tank of gas doing only 150 miles, they told me to go to the nearest gas station (300’ away) and fill up with fresh premium gas. They gave me an additive which I then had to pour into the gas tank to clean the catalytic converter.

The story ended well… it was water in the fuel. And the good news was that since they reset the entire transmission, the CVT has never been as good as this. Smooth, responsive, and far better ratio shifts. And all of this cost me just 600 pesos (US$32)!!

So, who knows if your bad cylinder 3 behavior now requires you to get the CVT reprogrammed/reset because it did not know what to do with the misfiring. Just a thought…