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CVT questions

2.4K views 15 replies 7 participants last post by  chidog  
#1 · (Edited)
So we have 5 million threads on CVTs and after hours of flipping through them I’m exhausted and literally have crossed eyes from staring at my iPad.

I need part numbers. I have the external filter and gasket. I have crush washers.

I need the correct part number for the internal screen filter. I saw a video where he used this 31728-29X0D, but someone in the comments said this filter is revision “D” and has two bolt holes instead of 3, which requires a bracket 310693-VXD to deal with. I don’t see a single person here talking about this.

Also, does anyone have the shop manual to provide torque specs for external filter bolts, internal filter bolts, pan bolts, and drain/level bolts?


Here is what the person said 6 months ago:

“Heads up to any DIYers doing this yourself. The latest transmission strainer (larger silver filter behind the pan) (13.3 min) is now a "D" revision as can be seen at the end of the part number, 31728-29X0D. I also had to buy a new bracket part number, 310693-VXD. This only done once, unless of course, Nissan goes to an "E" revision. I found this out the hard way after ordering all of the parts and dropping the pan. I then had to scour the earth for the new bracket and drive a couple of hours to get it. Hope this saves someone some serious time and frustration.

For anyone wondering, the new filter has 2 bolt holes instead of 3. The back bolt on the old filter (towards rear of car) mounts to a small removable bracket. I had to remove this small "A" revision bracket to make room for the "D" revision filter. I reinstalled the 2 small small screws without the bracket. Also installed the long bolt from filter "A" back into the transmission. It will be behind the new revision "D" filter after installing it. The new bracket I mentioned in my first post above is a new replacement for the small bracket that has a small sensor zip tied to it. The new bracket is almost identical but is thicker where the new revision "D" filter will attach. I reused all of the bolts removed to mount the new bracket and filter. On the other corner of the filter you will see where a transmission bolt is removed to reinstalled through the new filter.”

Lastly, I use an iPhone. Apparently cannot use the app people use to determine the CVT temp. Anyone not using the Android app have an answer?

Heres the shop manual with torques and the correct torquing order of the pan:


The shop manual has literally no mention whatsoever of the external CVT filter. Nothing.
 
#2 ·
I’ve ordered everything, read the shop manual a few times, and bought additional tools that I’ll need.

I’ll come back and post parts when I’ve confirmed they’re correct.

I’m going to use the overfill attachment part and do it from the bottom.

I’m also going to follow the manual and do two 3.125 qt dump and fills before I fill it for good. It’s going to take 11 qts.

I’m also going to drop the pan first, but not change the paper filter until the third fill. Objective is to get crud out to keep new fluid cleaner, but not gunk up the paper filter.
 
#3 ·
#8 · (Edited)
I would also like to add that I was very surprised to see experimental evidence that the vast majority of the wear and tear, as indicated by fluid state, is apparently in the first 30,000 or less miles. It’s a tragic realization that I should have done this a long, long time ago.

Feedback indicates after the first change, the fluid appears almost new at subsequent 30,000 dump and fills. I find that very surprising.

I do wonder how much of it is related to OEM additives in the factory fluid fill. People dump differentials at 10,000 miles and panic over how dark it is, but it’s almost always full of moly and other stuff that makes it look bad compared to new fluid. Not sure what’s up.

It’s possible that after a good clean out these CVTs never need another change unless they experience very harsh conditions. It would be nice if Jatco advised on this and it was disseminated correctly to customers, but that doesn’t sell more transmissions. Jatco has made out like a bandit at Nissan’s expense. Of course that is Nissan’s fault ultimately.
 
#9 ·
It’s possible that after a good clean out these CVTs never need another change unless they experience very harsh conditions. It would be nice if Jatco advised on this and it was disseminated correctly to customers, but that doesn’t sell more transmissions. Jatco has made out like a bandit at Nissan’s expense. Of course that is Nissan’s fault ultimately.
CVT's are constantly making metal particles, one good clean out doesn't stop that. The fluid carries the metal particles all over inside and that affects the seals, and the valves and valve bores in the valve body. If purchasing the slightly less expensive Idemitsu fluid (factory fill) a person could do a simple drain and fill every 2 engine oil changes, that would be a big help keeping the fluid clean.
 
#14 ·
The internal "filter" is just a screen. Unless the screen is damaged, just spray it down with parts cleaner. Trust me, finding the exact part to replace it is nearly impossible. The intake tubes are of different sizes and there is nothing to denote which is which. You get what you get. I got the "correct" one, only to find the intake tube too long and had to butcher it to get it to fit. It's not worth the hassle. I'm not sure if this a quality control issue or not.