I have replaced driver's door actuator. When I open and close the driver's door with the key in the ignition, the doors lock then unlock every time. Anybody else experience this tor have any suggestions or i should go for Locksmith.

 

I have replaced driver's door actuator. When I open and close the driver's door with the key in the ignition, the doors lock then unlock every time. Anybody else experience this tor have any suggestions or i should go for Locksmith.

Go for Locksmith this will become major problem in the end. My friend also have some issues like you and he has not chosen any mechanic for this and he has to pay lot in the end. So those issues have been resolved in the start.

 

I believe that is safety feature so you don't lock the key inside. If you remove the key off the ignition, and the lock works fine, either by fob or the door switch, then all is working as it should.

 

A door lock actuator is the component in electronic door locks that is responsible for locking and unlocking the vehicle’s doors. When a button is pressed to lock or unlock a door, the door lock switch triggers the actuator.Facing any problem with the door actuator leads to the serious exasperation.In this situation the first option that come in my mind is Locksmith.

 

Just an update..... Its been a year since the repair and the lock has been working flawlessly. I got a feeling those China made motors might last...

 

Power door lock is integral to lock actuator so if remote fails then actuator will also not work completely. At that instant removing it by hiring a locksmith and install the new one is the prominent solution.

Mod note: locksmith commercial link removed from post.

 

Power door lock is integral to lock actuator so if remote fails then actuator will also not work completely. At that instant removing it by hiring a locksmith and install the new one is the prominent solution.

For those who aren't able or willing to DIY, yes.

But it's something you can do if you wish, as shown in the original post. Solutions like that are exclusive to owners who are willing to disassemble parts and replace faulty components. That's something that commercial vendors won't do both because of the complexity of the task, and because the labor charges would be excessive. Car dealerships and locksmiths are in the business of replacing parts, not repairing parts.

I recall my Audi 200 which burned out all the lights in the window up/down switches. In one afternoon, I removed all the window switches from the door armrests, disassembled them, replaced the wheat grain lamp in each one, then reassembled the window switches and reinstalled them.

The switches would have cost more than $60 each. The wheat grain bulbs cost me about $2. I spent an afternoon doing the work, but saved at least $238 in cash. Sometimes that's a good idea, sometimes not.

 

OP nitely, works perfectly! Thanks for this.

"some heat"??? If it weren't for getting the worm gear off the old motor, I like your solution for cost and not having to rewire or cut into cables with after market motors.

I did do one thing differently (will post pictures later). After struggling to open the first assembly box and risking breaking it, I took a hack saw down the middle to score the plastic, being careful to not cut the electronic components attached to the backside and then snapped it along that line. Switched the motor. Epoxy on the plastic posts and duct tape over the top to hold it. Works perfectly.

Now on the "some heat" and looking for advice. I had the worm drive red hot and honestly starting to melt. One came off reasonably well. One that won't budge is going in a heavy vice tomorrow with serious heat to see what happens.

And I ruined one because I thought I could hack it off and drill out the motor shaft. Didn't work. So looking for a replacement worm drive I found that they are all slanted the wrong way even on ebay! Went to the RC / hobby store and they have plastic ones all with the wrong slant direct. So one door is likely going to have to be after-market, or I am going to have to order a used assembly from ebay. Or do you have any suggestions on heat?

 

From what I recall, all I did was hold the motor body with a vice and heat up the worm gear with my torch (used for copper pipes). Then I got another pliers just to slide it out. It came off real easy once it was hot. Maybe you bent the shaft on one of them that's why it wont come off?

Not sure where you can find a worm gear replacement though. Maybe that door will just have to be with an aftermarket. I find it hard to find muranos in pick-a-part place.

Good job in opening up the housing a different way. So long you were able to put it back together and shut it tight is the important thing.

 

Nitely how did you reverse polarity on the power leads to the motor? I took apart door lock, replaced the motor, and the polarity is reversed on the new motor I purchased.

 

The mabuchi motors that I got for the murano has the correct polarity. However, on the odyssey, it was reversed. You basically switch the wires that is on the housing. Put the positive wire to the negative end and the negative wire to the positive end. If you find the wires to be short, you can splice in an extra wire to reach the ends.

 

You can also flip the motor if the other side also has lead connections. If not, do the wire switch. You can even cut the wire somewhere in the line and splice it with the other. So you don't have to add wire.

Can't remember if the wires has extra slack but point is you want to switch the 2 wires going to the motor ends. Find the easiest way to accomplish that.

 

Thanks for the quick reply. I tried to switch the wires in the harness connector but the ends are a little different shape. So I'll just splice the opposite wires. I think that will be easier. Thanks again for your input.

 

Don't mess with the harness connection. I believe there is a small chip that controls the rest of the doors somewhere inside the assembly. You want to make sure you cross only the 2 wires coming from the motor leads. The 2 thin metal blade that gets inserted to the motor. Only the wires soldered at the other end of these blades should be cut and crossed nothing else. If you can see/find the solder points maybe you can just remove the solder and cross the wire from there and solder it back.

 

Oh that's good to know. I will try to find the solder points. I think everything was sealed beyond the metal leads to the motor. Maybe I can cut that plastic open and find the connection.

 

Everything went very well. All the door locks work now. Had to do the same procedures for all 4 doors. Now trying to figure out the tailgate. Checked the motor and it works fine. I think it's the switch. Any one have any suggestions to solve this issue?

 

Locked in the Murano—driver’s side

Hi all,

Recently purchased a 2003 Murano, 166 K, love it—mostly. The driver’s window (and passenger’s window) had issues; wouldn’t roll down completely. Had been avoiding rolling it down the last few days, then then coffee called, I accidentally rolled it down, window drops into the door, won’t go back up. So, had a friend pull the panel.

We were unsuccessful in getting the right glue to get the window glued back into the clips, so it goes into the shop on Tuesday. Put everything back together just fine, thinking I’ll have no issues driving it around today. I get in this morning, and instantly get locked into the car. Can’t roll the window down to get out unless I want it to stay down (rained last night, so, not really). Can’t unlock it manually—the electronic lock is stuck in locked. Called a friend to let me out. I suspect we put something together backwards? Ideas? Many thanks.

 

Alright, so using a physical key to unlock the door isn’t the end of the world, but it is a slight hassle if you’re used to the convenience of electric locks. When a door ceases to lock and unlock at the press of a button, it often means that the door’s lock actuator has given up the ghost.With the door lock actuator removed from the secondary panel and placed on the bench, it’s time to dig into why this component has ceased to function.