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Standard length or the longer length? I did have a 14mm with an angle on it but it was one of the standard length open/box wrenches.
 
I absolutely love the title of this thread. It could not be more apropos.:4:

Kudos to topboxman!

-njjoe
 
Standard length or the longer length? I did have a 14mm with an angle on it but it was one of the standard length open/box wrenches.
Yeah just a standard length 14mm box end wrench with an angle on it. Put it on the rear pivot bolt and use a prybar or some kinda bar to push up on the wrench from under the car to break the bolt loose. Once it pops loose you can pretty much do it by hand. Its not super easy but it is possible.
 
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I think we should all by a 55 Chevy. Looks like a normal human can work on this sucker and even change the plugs. What a concept!
 
Yep...one of the things that my dad always complained about on newer vehicles was the fact that you can't see the ground on either side. He told me about one of his trucks that you could literally stand on the ground while working inside the engine compartment. I remember working on early 80's Chevy trucks as a kid. I could sit on the driver side wheel well and help while my dad wrenched away at something.

Times have definitely changed...
 
I don't trust my dealer. After buying a brand new Murano, I let the dealer changed the oil the first two times. Then when it was time to change the oil, I decided to do it myself. The oil drain plug and oil filter were incredibly tight. I had to use the long torque wrench just to loosen the drain plug. Also, I used a flimsy oil filter wrench which I have always used on other cars in the past without issues but it broke while trying to loosen the filter. The dealer that must have used the impact gun to tighten the drain plug and oil filter. I had to buy an oil filter plier. The plier crushed the oil filter while loosening it.

I can no longer trust the dealer to do any work on my car. I do all maintenance work myself from now on.

Peter

Peter,

That must be a Nissan thing, my wife had the oil changed on her MO, then I did it when I replaced the oil cooler oring. The plug was so tight I had to use both hands on a 15" 1/2 drive ratchet. A lot tighter than the 29 ftlbs that the service manual recommends. The crush washer was embedded into the drain plug head. Not a happy camper. I did take it to the service manager he made it right. ( I was in there getting 2 quarts of cvt fluid, he gave them to me said he was sorry and hoped that would make it right).:29:

Mike
 
Geez its that hard? I figured it was just releasing the tension on the tensioner then removing the belts and putting the new ones on and tighten them up. Lots of work in the engineering dept when a $10 auto-tensioner would have made everybody's life that much easier.

Both of my belts are cracking, stupid Nissan cheap parts! My Impala has the original serpentine at 170k and its barely cracking at all!
 
Geez its that hard? I figured it was just releasing the tension on the tensioner then removing the belts and putting the new ones on and tighten them up. Lots of work in the engineering dept when a $10 auto-tensioner would have made everybody's life that much easier.

Both of my belts are cracking, stupid Nissan cheap parts! My Impala has the original serpentine at 170k and its barely cracking at all!

We've explained here before that, even at a Nissan dealer, these 2 accessory belts for our Mos are under $150 ($90-$100 for labor, and $40-50 for the belts). That's really very reasonable, especially for a normal maintenance item needed only about every 60K miles (a pretty typical interval for accessory belts on many cars).
 
...these 2 accessory belts for our Mos are under $150 ($90-$100 for labor, and $40-50 for the belts). That's really very reasonable, especially for a normal maintenance item needed only about every 60K miles (a pretty typical interval for accessory belts on many cars).
No, that is not reasonable.

A single serpentine belt and an auto-tensioner would be much cheaper and far easier to maintain. My Jeep GC had that set-up and the belt cost $25 and took all of two minutes and a single long-handled screwdriver to replace.

There is no doubt that Nissan dropped the ball on this one.

-njjoe
 
I just replaced AC/Alternator and Power Steering belts. What a P.I.T.A. Nissan engineers should be fired!!!!

1) Raise car and remover right front tire.
2) Remove inside fender cover.
3) Using 14mm universal wrench, loosen the idler pulley lock. I could not use a socket and ratchet because there was no room.
3) Using 14mm socket and universal joint, loosen the idler pulley adjusting nut. I counted 7 full turns until the belt came loose. Universal joint was necessary for access and clearance.
4) If necessary, turn the crankshaft pulley (19mm socket) until you can see through the Power Steering pulley hole to reveal a bolt holding PS.
5) Using 12mm socket and ratchet, put the socket through the PS pulley hole and loosen the PS pivet bolt.
6) Using 12 mm universal wrench, loosen the PS lock bolt that's locking the adjusting bolt.
7) Using 12mm socket, ratchet and very long extension (I used two long plus one short extensions), loosen the PS adjusting bolt in the CLOCKWISE direction until the belt comes off. I had to turn the bolt ALL THE WAY just to barely remove the belt.

Everything except step #3 was done underneath the car.

Installation of new belts is reverse order.

After you are satisfied with the PS belt tension, first tighten the PS pivet bolt, then turn the PS adjusting bolt until it rests against the PS bracket, and finally tighten the PS lock bolt to lock the adjusting bolt. In my opinion, the PS bracket is a poor and confusing design but once you understand how it works, then you should have no problem. Be patient learning how this PS bracket works before you are done.

I am disappointed that I could not use a torque wrench anywhere due to tight space. I don't mind that it does not have a single serpetine belt supported by self-tensioning idler pulley as long as I can have good access to the belts. But this was not the case.

I am glad it's over. Even though it was difficult, it took me about 50 minutes thanks to all the tools I had.

Suggestion:

Get extra long universal wrench for PS lock bolt and ilder pulley. I didn't have extra long universal wrench but I was lucky that none of the bolts were extra tight.

Peter
Got mine done today and it was kinda/sorta a pain. Using the above write-up made it a lot easier. A couple of comments though. One is that I did not know where the serpentiine belt idler pulley lock was and had to go on-line to find that it is located in the center of the idler pulley. Two, pay attention to the suggestion at the bottom. I tried to loosen the PS lock bolt using the one I had, about 5 inches long, and could not get enough leverage to break it loose. I went and purchased one a couple of inches longer and it made all the difference in the world. I am glad I changed the serpentine belt but the PS belt had no cracking at all and may have lasted until I got rid of the vehicle. Anyway the job is done and I am only bleeding from one place, a new record for me.
 
I don't care what you guys say, our belts are much easier to change than others.

For example, take a look at this Volvo i worked on today. The belt is actually behind the engine between the tranny! WTF where they thinking?

Image
 
I don't care what you guys say, our belts are much easier to change than others.
t-

Yes, that may be a true statement, but so is this one... the belts on the Murano are more difficult to change than others. :4:

Nissan did a very poor job of designing the MO with regards to ease of maintenance. Changing a fan belt or tail light should not require a trip to the dealer.

-njjoe
 
$450??!!! Holy crap thats rediculous. We typically charge like $200 i think, havent sold belts in a while. Are you sure that was for belts only? Or were there other stuff involved like a broken tensioner bracket? That doesn't seem right.

The new VQs use an auto tensioner and to be honest, the belts seem to last alot longer with the auto tensioners.
 
$450??!!! Holy crap thats rediculous. We typically charge like $200 i think, havent sold belts in a while. Are you sure that was for belts only? Or were there other stuff involved like a broken tensioner bracket? That doesn't seem right.

The new VQs use an auto tensioner and to be honest, the belts seem to last alot longer with the auto tensioners.
I wonder if its at all possible to switch to having auto tensioners?
 
$450??!!! Holy crap thats rediculous. We typically charge like $200 i think, havent sold belts in a while. Are you sure that was for belts only? Or were there other stuff involved like a broken tensioner bracket? That doesn't seem right.

The new VQs use an auto tensioner and to be honest, the belts seem to last alot longer with the auto tensioners.
They didnt say anything about a tensioner. I looked at it when I got home and did not see any cracks or frays.
 
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