Is it possible to replace ONLY the ball joint without having to buy complete lower control arm? I see some for sale for only the lower B.J. for around 50. I understnad it may need to be pressed in, and thats fine we have a small machine shop where I work that can do that no problem. Im trying to keep this repair as cheap costing as possible as the cars gotta last 3 weeks til trade in. thanks in advance guys.
tammiesmurano03
Successfully replaced both front lower control arms (LCAs) on our 2005 SE in latter March 2016 (approx 145,000 miles). No problems with the install...until 3 months later when the original LCA Pivot Bolt (part # 54368-CA00A) broke.
I had ordered new LCA pivot bolts and LCA frame bolts from my local Nissan dealer however they didn't arrive in time and so we had used the original bolts for the replacement installation.
The fact that 3 months later we had a steering/alignment problem and found the broken pivot bolt gives rise to the following question:
What is the correct method for tightening LCA bolts?
Answer 1: OK to simply tighten with the front suspension hanging in the air;
Answer 2: Must have wheels on the ground or at least wheel on an elevated ramp or rack so that the pressure is neutral on the LCA attachment points while tightening the bolts to the torque spec. The reason given for this method is that, at "wheels on the ground" position, the LCAs are at minimal pressure or torque, and thus the bolts (especially the pivot bolt) will not prematurely wear out.
Several mechanics, including a local Nissan master tech, says that Answer 1 is they way it's always done. However, I see in the Nissan manual a reference to "wheels on the ground" as the preferred method for LCA bolt tightening.
Please weigh in on this question and your experiences.
Thank you.
I had ordered new LCA pivot bolts and LCA frame bolts from my local Nissan dealer however they didn't arrive in time and so we had used the original bolts for the replacement installation.
The fact that 3 months later we had a steering/alignment problem and found the broken pivot bolt gives rise to the following question:
What is the correct method for tightening LCA bolts?
Answer 1: OK to simply tighten with the front suspension hanging in the air;
Answer 2: Must have wheels on the ground or at least wheel on an elevated ramp or rack so that the pressure is neutral on the LCA attachment points while tightening the bolts to the torque spec. The reason given for this method is that, at "wheels on the ground" position, the LCAs are at minimal pressure or torque, and thus the bolts (especially the pivot bolt) will not prematurely wear out.
Several mechanics, including a local Nissan master tech, says that Answer 1 is they way it's always done. However, I see in the Nissan manual a reference to "wheels on the ground" as the preferred method for LCA bolt tightening.
Please weigh in on this question and your experiences.
Thank you.
I replaced the LCAs on my MO about three yrs ago. Saves money on doing the repair myself but what a pain in the ass it was. I bought the new LCAs from RockAuto.
Recently when replacing the outer tie rod ends I realized that the ball joints where bad again. I called RockAuto and the LCAs I bought have a lifetime warranty. I will buy the new ones again and they will refund me once I ship back the bad ones.
Just not looking forward to doing this repair again. Having power tools makes the repair much easier. Got a friend who has a air compressor and power tools so I will be doing it at his place on a weekend while having a few beers. That should make this repair go smoother than the first time.
Recently when replacing the outer tie rod ends I realized that the ball joints where bad again. I called RockAuto and the LCAs I bought have a lifetime warranty. I will buy the new ones again and they will refund me once I ship back the bad ones.
Just not looking forward to doing this repair again. Having power tools makes the repair much easier. Got a friend who has a air compressor and power tools so I will be doing it at his place on a weekend while having a few beers. That should make this repair go smoother than the first time.
i recently done this my self, but the presss i used didnt work to extract the b- joint ,what i did was cut the b-joint with a grinder & make it flat and two hits with the 3lb hammer and was out 
!! just be secure on hit the b joint not the control arms , and then i used the press to put it back it was easy for me i hope it does for you.
!! just be secure on hit the b joint not the control arms , and then i used the press to put it back it was easy for me i hope it does for you.
The fast way to separate ball joints or tie rod ends...there are a couple of different videos on this on YouTube. No special tools needed, just a BFH (big hammer.)
I would recommend that if your Murano has a lot of miles, it'd be better to replace the complete arm, that way you get new bushings also, or just get new bushings pressed into the old arm. I took a look at the rear bushings and not sure if that one can be pressed, or its one-piece with the rear arm support.
I work that can do that no problem. Im trying to keep this repair as cheap costing as possible as the cars gotta last 3 weeks til trade in. thanks in advance guys. snaptube telegram web
1aauto.com
Partsgeek.com
It can be done however, if you cause it to insert slanted, its garbage.
Partsgeek.com
It can be done however, if you cause it to insert slanted, its garbage.
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