Thanks for the tip!

i feel like i dont have enough power like i used to. how do you check if the one you have is flawed?
I checked Denso is the most expensive. so its good to know if we really need to replace it

 

Thanks for the tip!

I used an OBD Code Reader like the ones below. The ones from this company are easy to use with their smart phone app and add-on package that reads all of the modules in the vehicle, especially the ECM, TCM, AWD, IPDM and AC Amplifier modules.

OBDLink® - Home

The OBDLink® scan tools offer you ultimate access to your vehicle so you can take back control of your vehicle! Purchase one today.

www.obdlink.com

 

My 07 FWD began jerking / bucking recently after changing my alternator out. I don't know if changing the alternator had anything to do with causing the problem. The engine didn't seem to be cutting out at all and was not throwing any codes so I was thinking that it might have something to do with the CVT.
After readiing this discussion, I decided to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor to see if that would solve the problem.As far as I know, The CKP had not ever been replaced so I saw no harm in replacing it. I bought the Denso (OEM version) that original poster (Grav) recommended.
After installing it, I continued to have the jerking but it seemed less noticeable. I decided to monitor when it would occur and drove it several weeks and several hundred miles to try to pinpoint when it would (start & stop).
It seemed to be most noticeable on a slight incline beginning at 20 mph (approx 1200 rpm) and would stop at around 30 mph (approx 1500 rpms). It also occured at other speeds & rpms but not as frequently. It didn't seem to occur when accelerating at a higher rate.
Then, a few days ago I noticed the engine not performing as well. I then discovered rats were getting into the engine compartment. Then the next day, a code was thrown for the #2 cylinder misfire. I've quit driving it for the time being to try to determine the damage and have also been placing rat poison on the battery where I had seen some chewed acorns. I also saw evidence on top of the CVT and on the other side of the engine near the alternator. (I don't use the engine cover)
I may use a different discussion for this topic or start a new one. Meanwhile. what side of the engine is the #2 cylinder? I'll need to inspect the wiring closely. AND get rid of the rats.

 

Be sure to lift up the corners of the plastic cowl covers at the base of the windshield. After forgetting to put more mothballs in the engine bay of my 2003 after this past Winter, the mice took over. Last year I found a small nest and lots of empty nut shells under the black insulation that lines the bottom of the hood. Looks like they might have crawled through the latch/catch opening in the hood.

If the mouse problem is really serious, you might want to buy or build a 5-gallon bucket trap to capture more quickly.

#2 cylinder is grille-side, closest to the alternator. #6 is towards the battery. #1 is firewall-side, front-left if you're facing the passenger front fender.

 

I found a SOLUTION involves replacing the coil causing a engine misfire. Below, I CUT & PASTE my last comment on the "Rats in engine compartment" thread (with some editing)
Last week I looked closely at the wire to the #2 cylinder and decided the rats hadn't chewed it (I've had previous vehicles where they had) but there was clear evidence they've been getting in there. So I ordered a new coil for the #2 cylinder. I've been driving it this week and I can say that not only did it fix the misfire, but it also SOLVED the Jerking CVT issue. While I was having the jerking issue, I never got a Check Engine light until coincidentally I started having the rat problems. That's when it started running really rough and the Check Engine light finally came on indicating a #2 misfire.
I am so pleased that the coil replacement not only solved the misfire (which was expected), but it also solved the annoying jerking transmission issue. I have to conclude that the transmission wasn't actually jerking but the engine was starting to misfire giving the impression of CVT issues without setting of the Check Engine light. The misfire wasn't apparent at the time as it seemed to be running OK.