I would suspect a wiring issue somewhere in the lift gate, probably right at the open switch.

Good luck.

Have a good day.

 

But it does pop the gate when you hit the button that's what I don't understand it just doesn't lift unless you use fob or button on dash

 

This problem sounds kind of familiar, yet I can't seem to find a past thread about it. I thought the solution was the liftgate button in the glovebox had to be pressed to reactivate the button on the liftgate itself, but I don't think the SL has such a button, only the Platinum.

Does the button down and to the left of the steering wheel open the liftgate properly? Have you tried pressing and holding the button on the left-underside of the liftgate for three seconds until it beeps to see if that will somehow reset things?

Sounds as if the liftgate button above the license plate is acting as an emergency lock release to allow the liftgate to be opened manually. It could be a module or wiring problem or even a button problem with it. I don't recall if there's a setting using the steering wheel controls to disable that license plate-area button, maybe for child safety reasons. Does the kick release, motion-activated sensor work to make the liftgate open?

I'd say first confirm if the other two buttons work, along with the kick release, etc., and then come back and let us know and things can go from there.

 

The button on the dash does open and close it and so does the key fob, the kick function does not work, yes I tried disconnecting the fuse the battery and when I hold the button on the hatch it does beep after 10 seconds but it doesn't do anything else.

 

If I were a gambler I'd say the kick sensor and that center button are connected to the same module beneath the rear bumper. Could be a rusting situation, broken/loose connector, chewed wire or a failing control module. Does the alert sound when the liftgate is in auto-motion?

Since you have a used car, it's possible the previous owner did something to disable the kick function, which may have inadvertently disabled the center button which probably didn't matter to him/her. I rarely use it and probably wouldn't miss it. I hate the kick function because it sometimes reacts to a shadow or bright light to make the liftgate open unexpectedly. I might decide to pull the connectors to see for myself what's affected.

You can refer to the following link which has photos of one module below the rear bumper. I suspect at least one of those connectors is for the kick function. Maybe see if something's disconnected or partially removed and taped up, or if the wires were cut further back and taped.

https://www.nissanmurano.org/posts/787625/

 

I could care less about the kick function, but I would like the button to be able to open and close it instead of having to use the fob, it does beep when opening

 

After I posted I went to another post, then reread my old post and I think the kick sensor may be that lone gray connector that's located nearly dead-center under the rear bumper. I don't know for sure since I don't have a service manual for my 2021. I'm just guessing. Everything's online that you have to pay for, and so far I've done alright without it. I'd say to check if that's disconnected or loose.

https://www.nissanmurano.org/posts/787657/

 

Do you know if the lift gate module is located under the bumper or inside the vehicle?

 

I'm kind of referring to those things the connectors are going into as modules, except for the center-located gray one, which I think is the kick sensor. The kicks sensor wire may go into that 3-connector module/hub that I first mentioned, but I don't know. The last freebie 3rd Gen info is for the 2016, and it's mentioning a "touch sensor" under the DLK ("door and lock") section of that manual. But reading it might be pointless if the same features don't exist in later models and/or if the wiring and modules aren't run the same way or located in the same place.

I've never tried this, but what happens if you open the liftgate fully, then press and hold the center-positioned unlock button over the license plate? Maybe that will do something to reset things.

https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals

 

BTW, I see that it's indicating the pressing and holding the interior liftgate button (the one down by the steering wheel) for 10 seconds can reset the liftgate system. I'm not sure if that's the button you pressed before that beeped or the one on the left-underside of the liftgate when it's opened.

 

The one on the hatch does beep when I hold it for 10 seconds and it lights up so that indicates that it's getting power and plugged in but other than that it doesn't do anything

 

Updated:

I'm not trying to give you a hard time, but please confirm what you've tried because you haven't yet confirmed everything I mentioned to try...

Have you tried all of the following? (first make sure you've reconnected anything you disconnected for electrical things)...

- Press and hold for 10 seconds the button on the left-underside of the hatch trim (if your car doesn't have this button, please indicate so) and WAIT FOR TWO BEEPS and then release and hold again for 10 seconds (until it maybe beeps again.)

- Press and hold for 10 seconds the button down and to the left of the steering wheel and WAIT FOR TWO BEEPS) then release and press again and hold for ten seconds and release (or maybe until it beeps...try both ways if you have to.)

- Press and hold for 10 seconds the center-positioned release button just above the license plate (but on the hatch) and WAIT FOR TWO BEEPS, then release it and press again for 10 seconds and I guess wait for a beep. It's possible this button does nothing to reset anything, so if you never hear a beep after the first ten seconds, it's likely not worth pursuing this button as a reset method.

In ALL three instances, try it with the hatch closed, and then try it with the hatch fully opened (even if you have to open it manually) to see if anything changes.

If all three did nothing to solve the problem, I would try pressing and holding the liftgate button on the FOB for 10 seconds, wait for two beeps, then releasing it, then pressing and holding again for ten seconds (here, again, this may not trigger a beep or do anything for a reset.)

 

I'm not trying to give you a hard time, but please confirm what you've tried because you haven't yet confirmed everything I mentioned to try...

Have you tried all of the following? (make sure you've first reconnected anything you may disconnected for electrical things)...

- Press and hold for 10 seconds the button on the left-underside of the hatch trim (if your car doesn't have this button, please indicate so) and then release and hold again for 10 seconds until it beeps.

- Press and hold for 10 seconds the button down and to the left of the steering wheel, then release and press again and hold for ten seconds and release.

- Press and hold for 10 seconds the center-positioned release button just above the license plate, then release it and press again for 10 seconds and release.

In ALL three instances, try it with the hatch closed, and then try it with the hatch fully opened (even if you have to open it manually) to see if anything changes.

If all three did nothing to solve the problem, I would try pressing and holding the liftgate button on the FOB for 10 seconds, releasing it, then pressing and holding again for ten seconds.

I will try all that today after work and report back.

 

I realize I didn't mention the 10 press, release, 10 press thing last time. I was thinking more about the height adjustment procedure for the hatch. When you responded to another thread, I saw something I had posted there about it.

Looks like it's press for 10, wait for two beeps, then release and press for 10 again.

https://www.nissanmurano.org/posts/789256/

Depending on the results, you might consider using the CVTz50 app with an ELM327 dongle to plug into the OBDII port to see if any trouble codes exist. It could point you in the right direction instead of guessing at things and throwing money at parts that may be fine.

Here's my thread where that app found some errors. Skip through the posts to see some photos of the error screen.

https://www.nissanmurano.org/posts/793203/

And here's a recent post about the app with a kind of mid-range-priced Amazon purchase ($31). I paid $11 for mine in 2020 or 2021.

https://www.nissanmurano.org/posts/794428/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073XKQQQW?smid=A1GLTOK8L9INK7&psc=1

 

I just tried holding all buttons nothing changed

 

I just added more to my above post regarding the CVTz50 app which might be able to detect problems with a module. You can reach out to @vovexe who developed the app to ask if such things can be seen if there's a problem.

However, if there's a wiring issue as @PaulDay suggested, you may have to get wiring/circuit schematics of your car in order to troubleshoot things. I'm not sure to what extent the app could help isolate the problem area if it's related to wiring.

 

I have the elm327 I will look into the app and report back

 

In my experiences, the engine doesn't need to be running to scan for the codes, but the ignition does need to be in position #2 for the app to connect to the ECM, BCM, TCM, etc. I'm not sure if the engine running or not running changes what can be accessed, though. Maybe @vovexe can shed some light on this area.

Once the app and dongle are connected/paired (displayed in the top-left corner), the app developer recommends selecting "CVT Data Monitor" to ensure things are connected and working.

From there, you can back up one screen or tap the three dots in the top-right corner of the app screen and select "Service Functions" and then go to "Read DTC - all subsystems" which might take 4-5 minutes to complete before you see a list of any problems.

 

It was not letting me scan the modules with my elm327 adapter it was saying I might have a fake one, but I did use my other adapter ( bluedriver ) and when I scan the modules it was only giving me radar and sonar errors I didn't see anything related to the hatch

 

Once you're at the final DTC screen for the subsystems, if you scroll down you'll see whatever systems/things are available to be viewed. If there's no entry about a rear hatch or rear door or similar, it's possible either your reader is limited in its ability to communicate with certain app features, or that there's nothing there to view using the app. That's my best guess and where @vovexe will hopefully be able to help you figure out if you've hit a dead end.

If you're not getting any CAN errors, it would seem that everything is communicating correctly within your car's systems. I don't know what kind of electrical problem could trigger a code to be thrown. Is it a pass/fail kind of thing, or could low voltage create a real problem while failing to be seen as an issue by the BCM? Would the BCM be able to recognize a faulty lock release button on the hatch?

I'm drawing a blank at the moment, but I'd read something a few hours ago that triggered a possible cause and something to look at. I'll update if it comes to me.

 

It had something to do with a "pinch" sensor or child safety feature/switch. I'm not sure if depressing the "license plate" button for certain intervals or duration or on a different spot along that long button thing might trigger a safety feature. Maybe try to find the replacement part for it online so you can hopefully gain some insight as to how it looks, how many wires are running to/from it, etc.

Perhaps that license plate button utilizes the liftgate function differently than the other methods because the system knows that button is being affected by a real person, standing right there at that hatch, as opposed to the FOB being pushed or the other interior button being pushed to work the liftgate.

BTW, have you tried to manually close the hatch until is locks tight? It's okay to do it, just don't slam it down fast from a fully opened position. Doing that might change the way the hatch opens via that button.

EDIT: So attached is that switch. It's possible the round rubber thing is a safety on/off switch to prevent the hatch from opening automatically when someone is standing in front of it - perhaps as a child safety measure so a child doesn't get smacked in the face if accidentally depressing that switch. Worth looking into.

 

It's possible the round rubber thing is a safety on/off switch to

It locks/unlocks the doors.

Have a good day.

 

If there are no any DTCs... Technically it's possible to reconfigure BCM specifying that the vehicle has no back door which may impact buttons functioning. It's very unusual procedure but maybe previous owner did it intentionally to remove possibility of opening back door from the outside. But we cannot check it without good elm interface.

 

I will order a good one

 

It's strange that the manual makes no mention of that round button on the "Liftgate Opener Switch" only of the button bar, shown as "A". At least, it wasn't in the manual pertaining to the liftgate opening/closing using the FOB and the other buttons.

 

It will close if I put it down manually it will automatically latch,and the outside button does pop the hatch but that's it

 

Just to rule out something for free, you could visit or contact a Nissan dealership and ask if it's possible to pay a fee to disable part of the "Liftgate Opener Switch" function so that the "unlatch" portions still works while preventing the hatch from opening fully by itself. You may have to provide your VIN for them to determine what can be programmed with your car's wiring and modules. They'll either give it to you straight with a yes, no or I don't know, or they'll encourage you to bring in the car so they can hook up their equipment to confirm and likely charge you a fee for doing so. I wouldn't pay a fee, but hopefully if you feel confident with any concise answer they give you, it may help determine if prior programming may be why that button isn't working correctly. If that kind of programming isn't possible, you'll know the problem has something to do with your car's electronics or wiring.

 

Finally got my new OBD2 reader in,

 

got my new OBD2 reader in

So now we can check what's in configuration of the back door. Please update the app from https://cvtz50.info/test , and check what's in following configuration options options of ServiceFunctions->BCM:

• "VEHICLE BODY TYPE"
• "Auto Back Door"

Also run ServiceFunctions->ReadDtcAllSubsystems and confirm that it has AutoBackDoor in the list of scanned modules.

 

What was on that you turned off? "Auto Back Door"?

What does the "Trunk/Glass Hatch Open" function do?

 

I turned off the automatic back door, and also changed it to trunk but I did both of those things it's just disabled the button completely. I turn them back on and it acts the same just pops the hatch doesn't automatically open unless you use the two other buttons. No error codes when scanning the modules either

 

My 2021 still produces an Auto Back Door DTC, and the only issue I see with the liftgate is that the round button only locks the doors and won't unlock them. Not sure if that error is why the unlock portion doesn't work for me. I don't really care but am providing that info in case it helps solve your issue of what's happening.

 

The round button on mine does unlock and lock them fine. I'm stumped I was hoping it was turned off in the settings I'm not sure what to try next