Glad the light went off however with your problem back and forth and wasting your time the problem should be fixed. You should go to another dealer as that code is stored in the system. Regular vs Premium gas is just a waste of your money. Doesn’t change amount of ethanol.
Have you tried looking into the lemon law? Based on what your telling us you qualify for the lemon law. I hate seeing stuff like this happen to people and dealers not able to find a permanent fix.

 

Thanks for your concern. Alas, we don't have a lemon law in Canada. If I get rid of the vehicle, I would take a loss despite the very low mileage. I'll see if the light comes back and if it stays on for a while, I'll go to the dealer. It seems one of the O2 sensor is borderline.

 

I casually won a CA Lemon-Law case with my new 1996 Mitsubishi Montero Sport (brand-new introduction .. what could go wrong ?).
With just about 100miles, the CEL went on randomly (It could be fine for a few months in between). The code indicated a low gas-tank pressure (possible leak). First repair attempt, they tightened the gas cap. Second attempt, they replaced the gas cap. Third attempt, they replace the filler-tube. The Law stated a 3-attempt threshold (of the same problem) to start the process for a final attempt. (I liked the car so much) I gave them 7 chances.
Going in for the 7th attempt, I told the dealer it would be the last chance to fix the problem. I also mailed a certified letter to Mitsubishi to start the Lemon case. Final verdict: Mitsu Rep handed me a refund-check (total out-the-door amount paid minus $2xx for the usage based on the mileage between delivery & 1st-occurrence @100mile). I got about 9 months of usage with about 11K miles.

• I wanted a replacement but they didn't have any compatibles on-hand (probably due to such a great deal I got originally).
• There were a couple of repairs the dealer didn't record into records (but I had the @receiving estimates).
• There was no lawyer involved.
• I "walked" out of the dealer with the check & needing a new car badly. In 1997, Nissan was on the brink of bankruptcy & were "giving away" their cars. I bought my 1st Nissan (the 97MaximaGLE). The deals were so great, we (+friend&relatives) bought four 1997 Maximas. Then in 1999 (before the Renault takeover), we (+ friends) stole/bought four new Pathfinders. Personally I'm currently on Nissan#5 (2017.5 Murano). The main attraction has been the great (20+%) discounts.
• Those 97s & 99s Nissans were so reliable, I had no problem handing them down to the kids. With the later Nissans, I don't intend to keep beyond 10yr/150Kmile. I could keep them longer but am too old to deal with random troubles.

 

Light has been on for a few weeks and I suspected something was wrong. Dealer reprogrammed ECM according to TSB NTB19-030 as there was another code that came up. We'll see what happens!

 

The CEL came back on today...so the fix didn't last long! I wish I would never have to report this annoying issue here again. I have an appointment on July 8th.

 

Dealer has ordered 1 O2 sensor and 1 A/F (air/fuel) sensor and I have to go back on July 20th.

 

Sensors replaced and CEL off. Let's see how long this will last! (I sound like a broken record). My warranty expires on Sept 6...

 

I hope you track all your visits and if this comes on again INSIST THEY PAY FOR it

 

The good news is that you reported it and they started work before the warranty expired. They should be willing to pursue it until resolved. Make sure to maintain your records to show when the problem began.

 

I guess you must have called the wolf as my !"/$%?& CEL just came back on today! Using my OBDII dongle, it showed P2096 fault which relates to the 2 sensors they replaced less than 3 months ago and my warranty ended a month ago. I have all my service records on paper. I think this will be an ongoing problem...Should I get a CX-5 100th Anniversary Edition???

 

The love/hate relationship continues with my Murano... It would cost me less to replace a sensor every few months than buying a new vehicle but the trouble to go to the dealer, leave the vehicle and not knowing when the problem will reoccur is a PITA. If my wife would consider to change her Juke for say a CX-30, I would sell my Murano and borrow her vehicle; we're both retired and I do very little mileage now.

 

Dealer ordered another A/F (air/fuel) sensor and will replace it no charge thanks to goodwill policy by Nissan Canada. Next time I'll have to pay because I do short trips and the sensors are apparently not designed for that kind of driving ! This A/F sensor is the original one, the other one was replaced in July. I rest my case...

 

Next time I'll have to pay because I do short trips and the sensors are apparently not designed for that kind of driving !

I've gone for two weeks at a time driving only three blocks down to the DD and back home quite regularly. I must really be killing those sensors.

Dealer is just BFGSUYA! Never heard of that kind of excuse! I would guess that there's something else going on. Most dealer mechanics can't look past a code to see what really might be causing the issue. That's where a true mechanic is worth his weight in gold.

Good luck.

Have a good day.

 

@Freedom55, your Murano is not exhibiting any drivability issues, it's just logging trouble codes, correct?

Here's a long shot... If you buy your gas at the same station every time, try switching to a different brand gas station for awhile. You never know...

 

I think I'll fill up with 94 octane which is available from one specific refinery and there's a gas station near my home; it's supposed to have extra cleaning power which helps keeping injectors, throttle body, valves and combustion chamber cleaner but not sure about sensors down by the exhaust system.

 

I've found the best luck sticking to Sunoco (91 octane) first choice and Shell (89 octane) the second.

What most people don't realize is that the money saved by buying lower tier/cheap gas, is the long term affect that cheap fuel has on the engine and components. The two items that ages the quickest from cheap gas are the catalectic converters. Cheap fuel is dirty fuel. That microscopic dirt builds up on the honeycomb of catalectic converters, eventually restricting gas flow. First sign is issues with the cat sensors failing due to the excessive heat caused by the restricted flow. That's why the Murano's rear cat always fails first, more prone to running hotter due to location.

Replace the sensor and it will work for a while until it too fails due to the excessive heat. Eventually, the honeycomb will fail and start to crumble. Keep driving and eventually you'll be replacing the engine due to oil burning.

Cat converters should last 200K before needing replacing. The cleaner your engine burns, the longer your cats will last. If your losing more then a qt. of oil per manufacture's recommended oil change (For normal driving.), then technically that engine is an oil burner and you can expect to lose 30% of the cat's life. The standard for today's engines is 10% or less of oil loss per oil change, a little less then a 1/2 qt. with the Murano's engine.

If your experiencing dirt on the MAS, then you need to identify if it's an oily dirt or a dry dirt.

If it's only dry dirt, check the entire air path from the air cleaner to the MAP. The Murano air filter is a known ***** to install, especially the bottom end setting down in properly.

If it's an oily dirt, then the PCV system needs to be checked out. The PCV system is designed to scrub most of the oil mist from the air being introduced back in to the system from upper engine pressure. The design can be overwhelmed if there is an engine issue causing excessive upper engine pressure.

Examples would be a cylinder ring issue, scored cylinder wall, worn/bad valve and/or valve train issue, clogged head drain holes, excessive oil pressure, and probably several others that I can't think of at this time.

Hope this helps pointing in the right direction. Good luck.

Have a good day.

 

I don't buy cheap gas and my vehicle doesn't burn oil. It's not the MAS (mass airflow sensor) it's always the AF or 02 sensors. Anyhow, the !"/$%? light came back on a mere 8 days after having the AF (air/fuel) sensor replaced! The dealer said to drive for longer distances to properly warm up the sensors which is what I did for the past week or so. At the time, they checked exhaust and intake for leaks, they were fine. Yesterday I checked the fault code with my ELM327 dongle and CVTz50 app, same code as last time P2096; I was so furious, I cleared the code and I'll see what happens next!!! I drove less than 50 miles and the damn sensor failed again, non sense...The exhaust tips look like new, no carbon deposit but that's not exact science.

I normally fill up with premium (91 octane) at Mobil but I don't know how it compares with others in my area.

 

When the code comes back, see if there's any freeze frame data stored with it before erasing. If there is, post it here as I'm curious what the state of the sensors are when the code is triggered.

BTW, when you say you only drive short distances, how short? How many kilometers per day/week?

 

Have you or the dealership checked for vacuum leaks?

 

The dealer checked for intake leaks, not sure if that included all vacuum lines. As for freeze frame, I think the CVTz50 app doesn't have it (it reads it as shown on my previous post but couldn't get it to display) but the Torque Pro app has it for a modest $4.95.

 

I need to add Torque Pro to my OBD2 app collection too. I have heard good things regarding it over the years. It seems like a nice complement to CVTz50.

 

History repeats itself today with fault code P00037. I cleared it but it looks like I'll have to take it to the dealer again if it comes back. This car doesn't like me! Time to sell it and get a Leaf instead? I swear the day my wife changes her 2015 Juke for something a little bigger/more comfortable like a Crosstrek or CX-30, I'll get rid of mine and borrow hers.

 

O2 sensors (and A/F sensors as well) are generally very reliable. Going through your earlier posts, the dealership has apparently replaced all of them at least once, correct? The problem is clearly not with the sensors.

If you take the car back, insist that they thoroughly inspect the wiring harness. You stated in Post #18 that the tech found water seeping into the O2 sensor harness connector. Any degree of corrosion that has taken root in the wiring harness can absolutely interfere with a sensor signal and/or ground resulting in weird intermittent problems.

 

Thanks guys! I spent hours reading about O2 and AF sensors and burning oil or antifreeze are the most common causes besides time and mileage, no mention of short trips anywhere. No lemon law here unfortunately. The sensors have been replaced at least once and some twice already. Dealer checked the connectors and put dielectric grease a while ago, it didn't change anything! I could sit down with the service manager and see if we can take this higher, definitely not normal even if tech says so.

 

Next time a sensor is replaced, I will ask to see it to better understand why they fail so early (every 1000 miles average for the past 2 years). I found this interesting article which shows the various colors of a failed sensor depending on what they were contaminated with, just scroll down a little.

(O2) Oxygen Sensor: Function - Failure Symptoms - With Testing

Understanding the (O2) oxygen sensor: learn how it measures exhaust oxygen content and why it's important for your vehicle's performance.

dannysengineportal.com

 

Seriously, what are the odds that multiple OEM oxygen sensors would fail one after another absent you dumping some strange additive into your gas tank? My point about the water in the harness connector is that although the dealership cleaned out the connector and sealed it, if corrosion had already penetrated into the wiring then it's too late--they should have replaced that section of the wiring. It's akin to finding rust spots on the body and just painting over it.

And, the dealership is yanking your chain about short trips. Ask them to show you in the owners manual where it says that multiple short trips can damage components in your car. They won't be able to because it's not there. The only stipulation regarding short trips is that Nissan recommends following the more rigorous maintenance intervals, but given that you're in Canada you should already be doing this.

While Canada may not have a Lemon Law per se, they surely must have some consumer protection regulations, no? This is an ongoing problem that began while the vehicle was under warranty and it continues to persist. You should not have to pay anything out of your own pocket until it is resolved.

 

I don't put any additives in the gas tank or spray any cleaner down the intake. How can 4 different sensors go bad I don't know for sure but I'm far from being convinced that the short trips are causing this! I don't think the 4 wiring harnesses are corroded, The top tech who normally works on my vehicle said his mom's Sentra has the same problem because she does short trips too...My plan is to talk to the service manager and then regional Nissan office which is very close if nothing is resolved, the Canadian Nissan head office. Why it seems that I am the only Murano owner with this problem???

 

Yeah, I have only been driving my Muranos around 2-3k a year over the past 14 years. I have never had any issues related to it other than the battery can sometimes become undercharged from too many short trips. This is easily remedied by putting the battery on a float charger occasionally, especially during the cold season months of the year.

 

That's about the mileage I've been doing for the past 5 years. Never had this problem on my 2014 but the dealer said that 3rd gen are more sensitive to this. My battery always kept its charge so far but I will replace it soon as they are known to fail early. Since I don't drive much, it's possible IMO that oil or coolant contaminates the sensors but the level never goes down much between oil changes and regular inspection/top up at the dealer. Blown head gasket, defective PCV valve, etc. that's why I want to see a failed sensor with my own eyes!