Finished the avelectronic tv kit install today. Terrible timing with generator's wonderful announcement, but I think people want to hear some feedback anyway.
Don't buy this unit for the tv reception if you live in the suburbs. I bought the kit because I mainly wanted to provide an a/v input for a multimedia PC that drove video to the nav screen and audio to the stereo (and rarely play xbox). This unit fans 3 inputs (plus tv) across 3 outputs, one output being the nav screen. It does not do dual-zoning. Their next unit up does. The unit requires a connection to the parking brake indicator to meet federal regulations. However, I plan to run XMMS (Linux's answer to Winamp) most of the time and will frequently need the PC display up. Also, having 2 more outputs will let me run the headrests this thread was originally about and run a/v (DashCam!) back to the PC for in-car video conferencing with NetMeeting or GnomeMeeting.
First, I removed the display and the stereo the same way everyone else has. Next, I ran the "video intercept" cable bundle from under my seat up behind the screen, without an inch to spare. Then I ran the "IR eye" and dropped it down all the way at the forward end of the storage tray forward of the shifter. Next, I had my friend dremel a hole on the left side of the "chin trim" under the stereo. This is for the rocker switch that lets the driver select the nav or aux video on the display. The switch had to sit very far forward in order to have sufficient headroom on top.
Today was cutting day. Had my friend perform the "hidden antenna" install (which everyone has seen

) and put together a power bundle. I picked up a cigarette adapter with bare wires on the far end. My friend recommended these little tubes from radio shack that make attaching wires SOO much easier. You know the phrase "measure twice, cut once?" Well, I was so nervous about cutting the wires to the screen that I measured about 10 times and cut once! Trust me, there isn't a whole lot of room behind the screen to cut, strip, twist, solder, and tape wires. Five wires need to be cut and all but one actually intercept the signal going to the screen by routing the signals to the new box and back up to the screen. The fifth wire is just ground and you are basically adding a 2nd leg to the ground.
If you cut all the foam and electrical tape off the screen wiring bundle, you have about 3 1/2 inches of wire to work with and you have to identify, cut, and rebind 5 wires out of about 20. Oh, and four of them are green

The stock wires going to the screen are about 22 gauge, and the new wires going to and from the a/v box are about 28 gauge. Talk about tiny! I had too much coffee this morning, so while my friend was too nervous about cutting the wrong wires, I cut 'em, and he had no problems splicing.
For power, we bound the power and "safety lead" together on the hot side and ran ground to ground. We removed the armrest insert, the trim near the armrest lock, and then plugged in the cigarette adatper. We were able to run the power cable up the side of the armrest area in between the outer wall and the inner wall, then drop the cable down near the armrest compartment lock, and it dropped out below the receiver clip for the driver's seatbelt. With the hidden antenna install, my friend was able to run the antenna leads behind the trim until they dropped out under the driver's seat. Very impressive, but short by about 4 inches. Two Radio Shack mono miniplug extenders later, and I had a totally invisble tv antenna.
Here are a couple of pictures. One of the tv reception quality at its
absolute best about a mile or two from Philly's tv towers (Roosevelt Blvd), and the other demonstrating where to reach to switch the video between the nav display and aux inputs. Oh, and I have no complaints at all about the sound coming from the FM modulator. I may not need the PAC Audio kit after all. Pictures of the video toggle switch and the "IR eye" to follow.