I've run out of ideas so hoping someone here will have a good suggestion. I have a 2004 SL AWD with 185k miles. I bought it with 20k miles on it 12 years ago and it's been reliable the entire time. Over the last year, however, the car has stalled out on me a few times. This has happened at speed on the highway (literally engine sputters and cuts out at 75mph) and after decelerating (like when coming off the highway onto the exit ramp and approaching a light). I've also had it die while just at idle. See attached video I just took tonight...it doesn't quite stall but it's a good example of what it does at idle every once in a while (see between 15 and 40 seconds and again later in the video). Note, there is no one in the car so when the engine RPMs recover, it was all on its own.
I took it to the Nissan dealer a few weeks ago and they had no firm ideas. Instead, they suggested repairs to the tune of $3000 but told me nothing was coming up in the computer. Again, no CEL, no codes. The only light on is the ABS light That's been on for the last 5 years, so I doubt that is causing my current issue. The ABS actuator was the majority of the repair cost the dealer suggested but they also wanted to flush and replace all fluids, replace sensors, etc. but, of course, no guarantees. When I hear "engine flush" I just run away.
After I told the dealer to pound sand (and paid their dumb $115 diagnostic fee), I picked up an ODB2 scanner. Still no codes. However, the "Mode 6" scan picked up an error "Rich to lean sensor threshold voltage constant". Still, no CEL and no codes (active or pending) from the scan.
This scanner also allows you to watch live data. The Bank 1 Sensor 1 O2 sensor had a near constant voltage (.285 nearly all the time with very rare movement to .3 or down to .27). The other O2 sensor vary up and down regularly as one would expect (except the Bank 1 Sensor 2 is generally reporting rich in the .6-.8 range telling me its running rich). I replaced the Bank 1 Sensor 1 O2 sensor and did idle air relearn but little changed (the sensor voltage changes more often and I've seen some higher and lower readings but it still generally stays at or about .285). The "Rich to lean sensor threshold voltage constant" error did, however, go away.
Figuring there was only one other sensor that is unique to the "rear" or "bank 1" cylinders, tonight I replaced the rear camshaft position sensor. After doing the idle air relearn, I took it for a test drive and saw no difference. It even stalled on me once at a stop sign for good measure.
Even after the stall, there is no CEL and no codes in the computer (active or pending). Mode 6 and live data all come back seemingly in normal ranges other than the bank 1 sensor 1 O2 sensor stuck at .285 most of the time.
I also tried looking for air leaks into the intake by spraying starter fluid along the intake hoses. That had no effect.
Spark plugs and wires were replaced about 2 years ago (probably less than 20k miles ago).
Gas mileage is down to about 14.5mpg on a route to and from work that used to give me 19. Best I get on the highway is maybe 16-17. I used to get north of 20.
I'm kind of at a decision point...the car needs tires but I refuse to buy them unless I can fix the stalling issue. If I can't fix it, I'll suck it up and buy something new. But, I'd rather hold off on that another year or two if I can.
Any and all suggestions welcome.
https://youtu.be/5F13n7qtp_I
I took it to the Nissan dealer a few weeks ago and they had no firm ideas. Instead, they suggested repairs to the tune of $3000 but told me nothing was coming up in the computer. Again, no CEL, no codes. The only light on is the ABS light That's been on for the last 5 years, so I doubt that is causing my current issue. The ABS actuator was the majority of the repair cost the dealer suggested but they also wanted to flush and replace all fluids, replace sensors, etc. but, of course, no guarantees. When I hear "engine flush" I just run away.
After I told the dealer to pound sand (and paid their dumb $115 diagnostic fee), I picked up an ODB2 scanner. Still no codes. However, the "Mode 6" scan picked up an error "Rich to lean sensor threshold voltage constant". Still, no CEL and no codes (active or pending) from the scan.
This scanner also allows you to watch live data. The Bank 1 Sensor 1 O2 sensor had a near constant voltage (.285 nearly all the time with very rare movement to .3 or down to .27). The other O2 sensor vary up and down regularly as one would expect (except the Bank 1 Sensor 2 is generally reporting rich in the .6-.8 range telling me its running rich). I replaced the Bank 1 Sensor 1 O2 sensor and did idle air relearn but little changed (the sensor voltage changes more often and I've seen some higher and lower readings but it still generally stays at or about .285). The "Rich to lean sensor threshold voltage constant" error did, however, go away.
Figuring there was only one other sensor that is unique to the "rear" or "bank 1" cylinders, tonight I replaced the rear camshaft position sensor. After doing the idle air relearn, I took it for a test drive and saw no difference. It even stalled on me once at a stop sign for good measure.
Even after the stall, there is no CEL and no codes in the computer (active or pending). Mode 6 and live data all come back seemingly in normal ranges other than the bank 1 sensor 1 O2 sensor stuck at .285 most of the time.
I also tried looking for air leaks into the intake by spraying starter fluid along the intake hoses. That had no effect.
Spark plugs and wires were replaced about 2 years ago (probably less than 20k miles ago).
Gas mileage is down to about 14.5mpg on a route to and from work that used to give me 19. Best I get on the highway is maybe 16-17. I used to get north of 20.
I'm kind of at a decision point...the car needs tires but I refuse to buy them unless I can fix the stalling issue. If I can't fix it, I'll suck it up and buy something new. But, I'd rather hold off on that another year or two if I can.
Any and all suggestions welcome.
https://youtu.be/5F13n7qtp_I
