Check your fuses. If your ecm doesn't have power (or is dead) and can't talk to anybody, that's the behavior you'll see. Does your scanner talk to any other modules like the BCM? Do you have any codes from any modules? If the ECM has power but nothing on the primary CAN bus can communicate, you'll end up needing to troubleshoot your CAN bus but start with the easy stuff first (power to the ecm).

Does the car progress through the power modes (OFF -> ACC -> ON -> OFF) if you press the start button repeatedly without your foot on brake pedal? It should cycle through those modes over and over if you keep pressing the button. If you have dash lights, it sounds like the car can at least go to ACC mode. The immobilizer needs to see the key and talk to the BCM to do that so if you can progress through those power modes, that's a good thing. You can see what mode you're in by looking at the start button. There are lights/words that tell you what mode you're in. If your immobilizer can't read the key, it shouldn't cycle through those modes and shouldn't try to crank the car. So not clear exactly what's going on from your description other than you're in fail safe mode (fans run when key on/engine off).

 

Check your fuses. If your ecm doesn't have power (or is dead) and can't talk to anybody, that's the behavior you'll see. Does your scanner talk to any other modules like the BCM? Do you have any codes from any modules? If the ECM has power but nothing on the primary CAN bus can communicate, you'll end up needing to troubleshoot your CAN bus but start with the easy stuff first (power to the ecm).

Does the car progress through the power modes (OFF -> ACC -> ON -> OFF) if you press the start button repeatedly without your foot on brake pedal? It should cycle through those modes over and over if you keep pressing the button. If you have dash lights, it sounds like the car can at least go to ACC mode. The immobilizer needs to see the key and talk to the BCM to do that so if you can progress through those power modes, that's a good thing. You can see what mode you're in by looking at the start button. There are lights/words that tell you what mode you're in. If your immobilizer can't read the key, it shouldn't cycle through those modes and shouldn't try to crank the car. So not clear exactly what's going on from your description other than you're in fail safe mode (fans run when key on/engine off).

View attachment 60810

All I have is a OBD2 scanner I don't have no way to communicate with the ECM at all or the PCM and my ignition will go through the off and acc. But yes my scanner is a cheap one and I cannot communicate with the ECM at all I'm kind of going at it blind so there's no power going to the ECM I'm assuming I can't communicate with that and the CM can't communicate with the key or fob.

 

I'm not exactly sure on all the fuses because some show that they're not getting continuity on headlights and if I turn on the lights this shows continuity. That confused me. I have a power probe now I haven't used it yet but I can use if you can help me through this. And I do appreciate you helping very much very grateful.

 

See this thread, which walks through checking power supply to the ECM for 2nd generation: https://www.nissanmurano.org/threads/no-crank-no-start.229874/?post_id=794996#post-794996

The terminal layouts in the diagrams within that thread are from the harness-side perspective. A regular multi-meter will be sufficient to do any electrical testing in these cars although a test light is often easier (and handier) sometimes.

 

Thank you... I got somebody to look at it and I'll get back when I find out. Electrical not my strong trait.
Your a great asset to this forum. 👍 I need coffee.👍
thank you as always

 

Got news I've got a bad IDPM looked at circuit board and there were several places were the joints were no longer soldered. Got 197,000 miles out of it... So it looks like I got to get me a used IDPM I see several on eBay anything I should be aware of going forward

 

There should be a sticker (or stamp) somewhere on your IPDM with the part number--use that to search eBay. IPDMs are pretty cheap, but I would suggest buying from a reputable seller that's offering some kind of warranty or no-hassle return in case the IPDM you buy is bad (...most used eBay parts are pulled out of wrecks).

Just make sure you disconnect the battery before installing the replacement IPDM and that all the fuses are in the right spots, etc. Let us know if this finally solves your problem. On a side note, I was going to suggest checking the high-current fuses on the fusible link connected to the battery positive terminal when you said half the IPDM was dead in that other thread, but I guess you confirmed the IPDM is indeed bad.

 

There should be a sticker (or stamp) somewhere on your IPDM with the part number--use that to search eBay. IPDMs are pretty cheap, but I would suggest buying from a reputable seller that's offering some kind of warranty or no-hassle return in case the IPDM you buy is bad (...most used eBay parts are pulled out of wrecks).

Just make sure you disconnect the battery before installing the replacement IPDM and that all the fuses are in the right spots, etc. Let us know if this finally solves your problem. On a side note, I was going to suggest checking the high-current fuses on the fusible link connected to the battery positive terminal when you said half the IPDM was dead in that other thread, but I guess you confirmed the IPDM is indeed bad.

So far I don't think it's a PDM so I've got somebody else to look at it now . I'll keep you informed on what ends up happening. Thanks for all your help. I really appreciate to all.

 

Upon further research I was still searching for issues for my no start ..I took battery out and I've looked at the ground wire under the battery at the battery pan and it was corroded really bad were ECM grounds so I've got it cleaned up waiting for a battery to charge up and I'm hoping that was the problem🤞

 

They're not visible in your pictures, but be sure to check where the negative cable actually attaches to the frame underneath that lower batter tray and then at the CVT where it terminates. Did you check all the fuses on the fusible link attached to the battery positive?

BTW, the negative battery connector you have on there makes me cringe. You should replace with an OEM cable if you intend to keep the car (Nissan part number: 24080-1AA0A). It's pricey because it includes a new battery current sensor, but worth it, IMO.

 

Ok I've already considered that already and that's probably my next item purchased It's $200 at the dealership about fell out of my chair. But I do intend on keeping the car running so I guess I'll buy that next I will check everything you mentioned My IPDM is not getting power to more than half of fuses me I did fix that ground and straighten it up but it still don't difference still no start

 

Buy from here:

Search Results | Hoffman Nissan Parts

Only $132 and free shipping.

Good luck.

Have a good day.

 

While battery and grounding connections are always important, I don't really see any reason to replace the NEG cable unless it's overly stiff/rigid and shows greening or corrosion on either end where the strands are exposed. I'd say the post-side just needs to be unfastened, the strands placed more tightly together and then re-secured.

With my 2003, I spent I think $10-$12 on a generic battery cable at Walmart and piggybacked it to the existing chassis grounding point and it worked fine. I did state that if I were keeping the car I would buy the correct cable, but not if I had to pay $100+ for it. The el cheapo cable worked just fine. If it hadn't worked, I would've gone to a better cable. Nothing wrong with trying cheap (on certain things) if it works and is reliable.

I think one of your biggest issues is the wiring going to the fusible link. Way too much corrosion on that one wire alone. Maybe cut it back to where it's good and splice on a newer section. That's where I'd focus my hard-earned dollars.

 

I did fix the corrosion issues most was the negative on the battery plate I did take the terminal in question negative battery end it's fine no corrosion and refastened and taped with heat resistant tape.
Haven't did anything today not feeling great health issues. My main concern is I'm not getting any power to my IPDM only few fuses in that panel works that's what concerns me I did get the other IPDM . I'll put it in since I addressed ground issue.. Here in just a few I'll post later Thank you for help.. since my health isn't that great I haven't actually got under the car recently can I check the starter while it's still installed?
I was supposed to have a technician come over yesterday but he never came over ain't heard from him since.

 

Is that POS wire connection coated with rust powder or is it just the lighting that makes it look less like shiny copper wire?