I believe that it's the lower one.

Buying any Nissan electrical part, real cheap (Knock-off), is asking for trouble.

Stick with OEM electrical parts, shopping for the cheapest online Nissan dealer. You'll pay more, but Nissan designs their electronic systems to very tight standards, hence installing non OEM parts can still show errors.

Have a good day.

 

Im getting the
P0420 Code: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1).
Notes: I have changed both catalysts, all O2 Sensors, 3 coil packs, spark plugs, exhaust is brand new. What else could it be? How can I pin-point it with my OBD scanner. Bank one is the side closest to the firewall?

I guess is the upstream 02 sensor since I bought them on ebay real cheap. Still, how can i know for sure if is that. Upstream, downstream or catalyst.

What scan tool do you have (brand and model number)?

Agree with PaulDay--avoid cheap Amazon/eBay parts. They can be defective right out of the box.

 

OBD2 Scanner for Car, Car Code Reader, Universal Diagnostic Tool for Check

So I was checking the work they did on my Murano and after checking the Upper sensor on bank one I feel the screws of my catalyst loose arrrgggrr ) I will check and verify this weekend to see if thats the issue because I know i have a leak and MOST likely is coming from there, if that doesnt work then ill be installing a new sensor from autozone.

 

Good find. Exhaust leak will throw off any O2 sensor.

With the hood open and the engine running, you might be able to hear the leak, if it's large enough. Be sure to get it tightened ASAP. Continuing to run the engine will cause exhaust gases to start eating away the exhaust gasket. If it's able to form a break, no amount of tightening of bolts will help.

Good luck.

Have a good day.

 

Yep. Exhaust leak can cause that code.

BTW, buy a cheap bluetooth OBDII adapter and the $5 Torque Pro app and you will have superior scan tool capabilities at a lower cost compared to that scanner you bought from Amazon. As a bonus, you can also download the $5 CVTz50 app and be able to do some CVT diagnostics along with a few bidirectional controls.

 

Hello! I got me an OBD adapter and i have it working with Car Scanner. How do I know if I have a bad O2 Sensor? I'm not familiar with these numbers / app on how to read it. What are the numbers suppose to be like? Im still getting that P0420 code but I want to make sure if my sensors are good to go before changing anything else that I have already.

 

Well thanks for the input. I will go underneath asap and check to see if I can do something about it. If not i will have a mechanic to do it. I'll post the update.

 

Use a spacer.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Eliminator-Adapter-Adapater-Isolator-Extension/dp/B07GYJP9X9

Works.

 

Use a spacer.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Eliminator-Adapter-Adapater-Isolator-Extension/dp/B07GYJP9X9

 

P0420 is the downstream/after CAT O2 sensor-reached from below where you put the anti fouler. Its critical that all replaced parts are torqued properly to avoid exhaust leaks. If sure thats done correctly, oem or denso or NTK O2 sensors are the only options. Any other brand will give problems. If you replaced all 4 O2 sensors, also known as 2 O2 sensor(downstream) and 2 A/F sensors(upstream-before CAT-reached from top) and installed the anti fouler on the downstream O2 sensor and still get the P0420. Its probably the sensors. Cracked exhaust manifold is also know to happen to these engines.

 

Im sorry the anti what? (fouler)?? what is that! I did replaced all 4 sensors with some other brand. All leaks have been taken care off.

 

Those O2 spacers(anti fouler) works instantly. They either work or not. I have one of those installed in my other vehicle and has been working for 6+ years since I put them on. I would fix the O2 sensors-P0420 issue first before trying to fix the fuel level sensor.

 

i went underneath the car and man let me tell you very very little space to work on them O2’s so I stop didn’t want to push it and brake it so it will go to the shop tomorrow. Ok I will deal with this issue first I got both side fuel sensors and I order as well both O2 sensors I’m not going around making shortcuts this time. If nothing works I will have to go to someone to bless and deliver my cars because they are both cursed. “My cars are cursed”

 

Yeah, to change the top A/F sensor-bank 1, you need to remove lots of stuff to reach it. Like the cowl, intake manifold, exhaust manifold heat shield. The bottom o2 sensor is more doable with less stuff to remove.

 

I guess I will install the new 2 O2 sensors with the spacers, what do ya'll think?

 

What brand did you get this time around? You are suppose to replace all 4 cheap sensors not only 2. As recommended by all the posters in this thread, put in only oem/nissan O2 sensors.They are expensive as hell but no headaches like what you are having now. I have not replaced my 04 since new - no issues at 140K, so I am not sure who makes them. But denso/ntk are good for Honda beside Honda o2 sensors. I suspect they are also good for nissan but not sure. When in doubt, get oem-nissan brand. And DO NOT add in the spacer on the downstream O2 sensors. Since you have 2 new CAT converter its not needed. As mentioned above, those spacers/anti fouler trick are used for very old CAT converters. To extended its service life and eliminate P0420 codes before total failure/replacement.

 

If this website is accurate, Nissan Murano Oxygen Sensor - 22693-3RC0A | Stateline Nissan, East Providence RI looks like denso makes nissan O2 sensors. You can safely use a denso equivalent O2 sensor for less than the nissan brand one. As I suspected, similar to honda. Never use any other. Check out rockauto.com for denso prices.

 

Well too late i saw them but got me NTK;s, if that doesnt work with them spacers then is time to get rid of this piece of crab!

 

So hello again! So the only thing that I got left for my Murano is to change the motor mounts and then fix the Evap/Fuel system in which Im not getting a code for it. I have changed the fuel pump and both level sensors and gas cap twice. I will request for them to do a diagnostic in depth. I will post the results here for everyone to feed on it.

 

Does anyone knows where this vacuum lines goes to? The one on the right side with the letters. Mines is attached to nothing and I cant find anything to plug it in neither, Anyone?

 

Ok so I've been code clear for all the other issues I had. Now I don't have a code issue but I have the Fuel issue. I mean that I can't fill my tank completely. I know I was sent a diagram of how the EVAP system works. I changed fuel pump and fuel sensors both but not getting an accurate fuel gauge reading. My question is and by the way im sending it this time to the shop. Should I ask for a full evap or fuel system diagnosed or both? To see if they can pin point the issue? Like i said before im not getting no codes but when i do an OBD2 scan for emission test it says that since the DTC cleared everything passes. But when I look underneath of it when it says Resutls for this drive cycle I get Missfire / Evap Purge / Fuel System / O2 Sensor / Catalyst / Not passing Hummm not cool but no DTC error codes. I guess it will come up at a later time. I really need to get my emmision test done by this weekend or next! Wish me luck!!! Thanks for everything it has been a journey!

 

It's difficult to understand what you mean with your scan tool because we can't see what you're seeing--post screenshots from your phone so we can see what the app is showing you.

The emissions systems are the most heavily monitored systems in the car (...they're the reason we have the whole OBDII scheme in the first place). Any fault with these systems should throw a trouble code. When you say that you scanned for an "emission test" I suspect that you're looking at the readiness status of the OBDII onboard monitors, which typically show up as "Ready" or "Complete" if the test has run and passed or "Not Ready" or "Incomplete" if the test has not run yet or failed. See for example what Torque Pro shows below. Have you looked in the documentation for your Car Scanner Pro app for information on this?

To answer your question, tell the shop your symptoms (i.e. can't fill up with gas) and that you need the car ready for your state's emissions test. They should be able to diagnose and repair whatever the problem is. If you live in a state where shops actually do the emissions testing then also ask to have the inspection after the emissions fault(s) are repaired so you can get your sticker and be done with it.

 

If this is correct, the EVAP monitor being ready may not be a requirement to pass the emissions test:

How Many Incomplete Monitors Are Allowed?

(RESOLVED - Click To View) Not all of my car's emission monitors are ready, and I'm worried about failing the smog test because of this. The car runs great. No issues whatsoever except this one monitor issue. My scan tool is showing it as

www.smogtips.com

Check the regulations for your state to see if they require the EVAP monitor to be ready.

 

If this is correct, the EVAP monitor being ready may not be a requirement to pass the emissions test:

Check the regulations for your state to see if they require the EVAP monitor to be ready.

This is very true. Every state has their own rules on what will pass and what won't pass an emissions inspection so one should know the rules for their state (...usually published somewhere on the DMV website).

The OP can find the driving pattern to set the readiness monitors on pages 525-526 of the service manual although the description is a bit incoherent.

 

Not that.
I was asking PaulDay why he was quoting me and then basically saying the same thing as I was. But infers I was saying a different thing. I don't get it. Maybe its the beer? Medication? Just woke up?

 

Not that.
I was asking PaulDay why he was quoting me and then basically saying the same thing as I was. But infers I was saying a different thing. I don't get it. Maybe its the beer? Medication? Just woke up?

Sorry, no beer, med, or just waking up. I was just clarifying how many times and lengths required on the new cars to get them into a ready state for emissions after clearing codes.

Sorry if it felt like I was stepping on any one's toes.

As everyone has also stated, engine must be up to full operating temp along with the engine coolant. Coolant is the last thing brought up to temp, so it's used as part of the readings to ensure passing emissions.

Have a good day.

 

For my part, it's definitely the beer. Here in Fort Collins CO we have 23 craft breweries. Beer is considered a food group...and I think I'm hungry. Back later.....

 

Ok good info about the OBD2 tests. I have driven my car for more than 400 miles since I cleared the codes as a matter of fact when I installed my new Catalysts and all Sensors all error codes lights went away on it's own. Now i was looking into how to get the OBD2 or better say the ECM back into ready mode, I have driven the car for miles like I said and I though that should it have put it back in ready mode but is not. Never the Less I have the car code free which for me is great! I Got rid of those P0420/30's error codes, Also I don't have the code for P0455 Indicating that there is a large leak in the evaporative emission control system (EVAP) and the error code for misfiring P0304 in my case. I also got rid of that annoying blinking light brake/battery at the same time (don't know how but it went away on it's own. Also I had to relearn the idle speed control system code P0507 and good to go. So overall it has been a lot of progress and it feels strong, is just the little details now at the end of this journey that I hope it doesn't get anymore error codes nor complicated. I had put great effort money and time to get this rolling properly. As far as where I'm at now is just a matter of making sure they fix my fuel issue where I can't fill my gas tank to capacity which could be the Vent Hose, Canister , Purge Valve or a combination of those who knows. Lets see what happens this week once I take it to the mechanic today and hopefully i get my fuel / evap issue fix and then pass the emission test. For realz!

 

So I took the Murano for a diagnostic for my fuel issues. They replaced the Fuel pump that I had installed and it fix the issue of filling up the tank and getting an accurate gauge fuel level. They said the pump was defective. Overall im happy, I got a refund back from autozone. Still have a few things that Im looking at. I will provide pictures but as of right now I don't have. When i do a test on my OBD the part that says emissions on it I get ((Since DTC cleared)) is saying that (Evaporative System) does not pass. Then at the bottom where it says (This Drive cycle)That 1-Missfire 2- Fuel System 3-Evaporative System and O2 Sensor does not pass.
My OBD is not on the MIL on status. I have driven miles and miles and is not coming to MIL on status. I think i can pass my emission test those could be old readings because when I do a non continuous check Everything passes.

 

I don't have any direct knowledge regarding this... However, I don't understand how a fuel pump would interfere with filling up the gas tank and cause an inaccurate fuel level display...

The fuel pump is off during fueling -- how would that affect filling the tank? Maybe there was an EVAP plumbing issue along with a fuel level sender adjustment issue, and both were corrected when replacing the fuel pump you installed previously? Just speculation...

 

hello! I just want to thank everyone for their support, it has been journey and a half getting my Murano up to speed. I have fixed all my codes and now my murano is running perfectly, powerful nice and smooth. Now my hood lift shocks for the hood broke. I went and got a pair at autozone but still foes not hold my hood open. Any commendation to buy these that actually work? Thanks in advanced.

Jay

 

You can't go wrong if you buy OEM parts from Courtesy Nissan online.

 

Well after dealing and keeping up with my Murano SL 2009 issues all is well. Got my emissions test done and pass. From everything I had to deal this is a list to mention a few. Now my Murano is running like a charm I mean like a champ! Love this car. My car is all the way up to the 240,000 miles but i bet you i will have this car all the way till the odometer runs out of numbers and starts back at 0 miles
😄😄😄😄

1-Both Catalytic Converters from Rock Auto and upper and lower o2 sensors from NKG
2- New Battery For the Flicking of the brake/battery lights
3-New Radiator
4-New Spark Plugs
5-New Rack and Pinion and outer tie rods
6-New Rotors and pads (Back and Front)
7-Evap canister Valve
8-Fuel Pump and level sensors

Codes are gone! I learned a lot about how to troubleshoot these cars it was interesting. I liked when i was able to change the spark plugs it was a challenge since I never done that on an engine like this. The fuel pump well that didn't come out good but I got them replace by a shop and got it fixed and i got a refund from autozone! (Avoid Auto Zone parts) sorry but its true. Well thanks to everyone here I had a blast, if anyone has any question about murano's specially second generation I think I might have an answer for you. lol